Roger's leather class @ CONNECTIONS

[Shorty]

NOW THAT I'VE GRABBED YOUR ATTENTION


What's happening with a "Day with Roger" at Connections :?:

To me, Thursday seems a fairly lack-lustre sort of day at Connections

Time is running shorter than I am, so let's pull our finger out and get something organised, eh :?:

Ooroo :roll:

 

[John Watson]

Hey Mate, Ill be there with you..I mentioned it to Bryan O and he said he was interested too.

 

[Shorty]

Roger is prepared to show as many of us from the here that are interested.

As I said, we can use my room at the Sahara. to save costs.

Roger has asked if those that want to come along come bring a variety of leather items.

He would like a description of what you will bring along.

Could you also post pictures here, so that he knows what he is in for and can bring the right products for each.

He has asked if anyone has these, they are welcome to bring them along.

Leather jacket, includine Aniline

Shearlings

Briefcase

Also any repairs that may need fixing.

At this point in time, I have pencilled out Thursday am, but if need be, we can do the whole day.

Some items, depending on what is to done, may take 24 hours to dry.

These may also be left in my room if that happens, until ready to take back.

We would like to see how many will come along and what they will bring.

I have an Ugg boot, also a kidskin jacket that are giving me grief, I will post photos this week-end after I figure this new camera out.


I'll try this one :shock:

Looking forward to seeing you there.

Ooroo :roll:

 

[Roger Koh]

Shorty,
Is this jacket a “split suede” (suede on both sides)?
And post close-up pictures of 1. Stain areas - collar, cuffs, and special attention areas. 2. Cleaning labels and 3. Lining too, Please!
Do post your Ugg boots here too!
For others please post your “impossible to clean” leather items if you wish to have a free service too!

Example of Coach® Leather Jacket for repair & refinishing.

Example of Coach® Leather Jacket Rip at sleeve to be repaired.

Example of ENZO ANGIOLINI® Purse - Cleaning > Conditioning > Refinishing

Example of the above service value at our regular prices:
Coach® Leather Jacket - Chrome-Tanned (Napa Nitrocellulose Black)
Service Options:
1. 5” Rip Bonding Repair (leatherBond3D™/ leatherBond7A™) $147
2. Other surface repairs to worn, nicks & abrasions (leatherBond3D™/leatherBond7A™ or impregnator26™) $49
3. Degreasing & Deoiling (d’Oil4.4™ & d’Grease4.9™) $24.50
4. Clean & Rinse (clean3.8™ & rinse3.0™) $49
5. Leather Structure Softening & Strengthening (fatliquor5.0™) $49
6. Color Re-Coating (napaColor84™ - standard black) $98
7. Protective Top-Coat (napaTop78S™ - satin finish) $98
8. Remove unwanted creases & affixing color coating firmly into the grain (Hot-Kiss-Plating™) $49
9. Non-stick buttery feel conditioning with the unforgettable classic leather scent (leatherScent’B™) $24.50 Total = $588

ENZO ANGIOLINI® Purse - Black Chrome-Retan Leather (Aniline Black)
Service Options:
1. Repairs to worn, abrasion areas exclude vinyl handle layer (leatherBond3D™/leatherBond7A™ or impregnator26™) $39
2. Degreasing (d’Grease4.9™) $19.50
3. Clean & Rinse (clean3.8™ & rinse3.0™) $39
4. Rehydration (relaxer3.3™) $39
5. Leather Structure Softening & Strengthening (fatliquor5.0™) $39
6. Remove unwanted creases (Hot-Kiss-Plating™) $39
7. Re-Dye (anilineDye21™ standard black) $78
8. Protective Top-Coat (napaTop54M™ - super-soft urethane matte) $78
9. Non-stick buttery feel conditioning with the unforgettable classic leather scent (leatherScent’B™) $19.50 Total = $390

Example of service request from customer for the above items:

Hello,

You were recommended to me by both the Danier & Coach stores. I actually had you look at photos of this jacket probably a year ago, but never got around to doing anything about it. I am hoping you can take a look again and give me an idea of what can be done to fix it and how much it will cost.

Black Coach jacket has a large rip on the right cuff. It could also use some cleaning or conditioning or something. I would be open to suggestions as to what could be done to improve the look of this item.

Black Enzo Angiolini purse needs the colour refinished. Blue Danier purse also needs the colour refinished. Again, if you have suggestions for other services that could benefit these items, please let me know. The pictures of these don’t really show how the colour has faded or is uneven, but hopefully they will help.

Thanks. Look forward to hearing back from you.

E… K…. M……, M…….. C………….. M. L…. C….. T: 6..7..4… C: 6..7..8…

The above is only examples of services value you can be confident of delivering after seeing it first hand!

Anyway for time and facilities constrains, refinishing is only limited to hand brushing technique only (without the need of spraying - so no need of expensive spray boots) and also limited to the number of items we can do for such a short time available.

And you can have yours service for free too!

So, quickly post your item here for a review, now please!

Roger Koh
Master Textile Cleaner (IICRC #942)

 

[Roger Koh]

And this is the testimony of the quality of services to a $3500.00 Zegna® leather jacket!

"Better than New"!!! (That's what's in the testimony)

You too can witness how easily it can be done even in a make-do hotel room with these “environmental friendly products”!

Roger Koh
LeatherDoctor® System

 

[Roger Koh]

Picture #1: “PORTFOLIO by Perry Ellis” napa black leather jacket.

Picture #2: Several unknown white stains similar to paint.

Picture #3: Lost its “New Look”.

Well, we have another volunteer’s jacket to work on.
The concern is that there are several white stains that are similar to paint that need to get rid off.
And overall it has lost the new look.
Let’s have a quiz to learn about restoring this jacket!

1. What do you think this “PORTFOLIO by Perry Ellis” napa leather jacket finish type is?
a. Pigmented
b. Semi-Aniline
c. Aniline

2. What type of tanning process is used?
a. Vegetable Tanned
b. Chrome Tanned
c. Alum Tanned

3. What do you think is the “Breathing/Absorbency Qualities”?
a. Non-Absorbent
b. Semi-absorbent
c. Absorbent

4. The type of “Binder System” used as the base color?
a. Nitrocellulose
b. Polyurethane
c. Acrylic

5. Type of skin?
a. Sheep
b. Goat
c. Pig

6. Do you think it can be restored to “better than new condition”?
a. Yes
b. Maybe
c. No

7. Do you think, besides the look, the charm of leather appeals to the nose, ear and touch too?
a. Yes
b. Maybe
c. No

Take this quiz if you have interest in leather cleaning and restoration!

Roger Koh
LeatherDoctor® System

 

[Jack May]

Picture #1: “PORTFOLIO by Perry Ellis” napa black leather jacket.

Well, we have another volunteer’s jacket to work on.
The concern is that there are several white stains that are similar to paint that need to get rid off.
And overall it has lost the new look.
Let’s have a quiz to learn about restoring this jacket!

1. What do you think this “PORTFOLIO by Perry Ellis” napa leather jacket finish type is?
a. Pigmented
b. Semi-Aniline
c. Aniline

2. What type of tanning process is used?
a. Vegetable Tanned
b. Chrome Tanned
c. Alum Tanned

3. What do you think is the “Breathing/Absorbency Qualities”?
a. Non-Absorbent
b. Semi-absorbent
c. Absorbent

4. The type of “Binder System” used as the base color?
a. Nitrocellulose
b. Polyurethane
c. Acrylic
d. Pass due to lack of knowledge

5. Type of skin?
a. Sheep
b. Goat
c. Pig
d. Pass due to lack of knowledge

6. Do you think it can be restored to “better than new condition”?
a. Yes
b. Maybe
c. No

7. Do you think, besides the look, the charm of leather appeals to the nose, ear and touch too?
a. Yesb. Maybe
c. No

Take this quiz if you have interest in leather cleaning and restoration!

Roger Koh
LeatherDoctor® System

 

[Roger Koh]

John!

Good Try!

Any one else?

 

[Jack May]

Ok, Roger, better spill the beans and set us all right.

Doesn't appear anyone else is game enough to make a goose out of them selves

John

 

[Roger Koh]

1. What do you think this “PORTFOLIO by Perry Ellis” napa leather jacket finish type is?
a. Pigmented
b. Semi-Aniline
c. Aniline

2. What type of tanning process is used?
a. Vegetable Tanned
b. Chrome Tanned
c. Alum Tanned

3. What do you think is the “Breathing/Absorbency Qualities”?
a. Non-Absorbent
b. Semi-absorbent
c. Absorbent

4. The type of “Binder System” used as the base color?
a. Nitrocellulose
b. Polyurethane
c. Acrylic

5. Type of skin?
a. Sheep
b. Goat
c. Pig

6. Do you think it can be restored to “better than new condition”?
a. Yes
b. Maybe
c. No

7. Do you think, besides the look, the charm of leather appeals to the nose, ear and touch too?
a. Yes
b. Maybe
c. No

It certainly goes against the norm as I was also taught that water “Pools” on “Pigmented” leather!

If so, how can these “Pigmented” answer for #1 and “Absorbent” answer for #3 be right?

Why semi-aniline is ruled out in this case?

The clue is in picture #3!

Roger Koh
LeatherDoctor® System

 

[Jack May]

I know where I may have stuffed up. On the cuff, the finish is wearing off and showing the 'blue/grey' underneath so to my mind that means it MUST be a pigmented finish.

Is the blue/grey the chrome tanning or the base binder system? If this is the binder base colour, how did you know from the photos that it was chrome tenned?

Is it absorbent because of the stitching, wear etc?

How can you tell that it is a sheep hide from the photos? Grain style?

John

 

[Roger Koh]

know where I may have stuffed up. On the cuff, the finish is wearing off and showing the 'blue/grey' underneath so to my mind that means it MUST be a pigmented finish.

When you see the crust color the finish on top must be a “Pigmented” finish is correct!


Is the blue/grey the chrome tanning

Yes! The blue/grey color denotes chrome-tanned.


or the base binder system? If this is the binder base colour, how did you know from the photos that it was chrome tenned?

The binder system refers to the color composition other than the color itself. (Nitrocellulose, Polyurethane, Acrylic, etc, are referred as binder).


Is it absorbent because of the stitching, wear etc?

Absorbency depends on the binder of the color and does give a characteristic look.

Here the black looks warm and mellow - typical of nitrocellulose (Absorbent).

If it has a metallic “copper” glow - typical of aniline (Absorbent)

If it has a cold look with a much deeper tone than “nitrocellulose” - typical of semi-aniline (semi-absorbent).

If it is close to semi-aniline but has a stiffer appearance without the drapes - typical of pigmented (non-absorbent).


How can you tell that it is a sheep hide from the photos? Grain style?

There are no hair follicles, so the pig is ruled out.

Between the sheep and the goat - sheep has smoother grain, spongier and surface nicks and abrade easier that shows a worn look over time much quicker.

Goat has distinct tighter grains and typically dyed thru.

On closer inspection goat is always lighter in weight and also has a characteristic smell that are not a favorite for fashion garment.


Roger Koh
LeatherDoctor® System

 

[jayjacques]

Oh darn, and I was just getting ready to post my answers! I would've gotten 100% NOT!

Oh btw Roger, just curious. I'm not making the trip, though I wish I was. But are you shipping your needed chemicals separate or attempting to take them with you on the airplane to Vegas? Guess I probably don't have to tell you it can get pretty sticky.

 

[Roger Koh]

In multiple choice questions, obviously I always pick the right answer!

Only blaming the question was not smart enough!

If only they would simply rephrase the question!

“Oh darn, I too would’ve gotten 100% NOT”?


Anyway, thanks for the reminder I wouldn’t take the chance by air with these products.
It went before me by parcel post.

Roger Koh
LeatherDoctor® System

 

[Roger Koh]

#1: After Refinishing - comparing to before picture above.

#2: Close-up at the cuff - comparing to before picture above.

#3: Close-up lower front where paint-like stain was - comparing to before picture above.

#4: Close-up collar without the wrinkles - comparing to before picture above.

What do you think of these results by sight alone, without experiencing the hand, feel or scent?

Your comment please!

Shorty can surely show us the result of the split suede jacket!

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

 

[Jack May]

Very nice!

Looks 'like new'. I'm sure the client will be very impressed.

What would/could you charge for such a service?

John

 

[Roger Koh]

What would/could you charge for such a service?


1. Surface repairs to worn, nicks & abrasions (leatherBond3D™ & leatherBond9D™) = $59

2. Prep Cleaning (d’Oil4.4™ & d’Grease4.9™) = $29.50

3. Clean & Rinse (clean3.8™ & rinse3.0™) = $59

4. Leather Structure Softening & Strengthening (fatliquor5.0™) = $59

5. Color Re-Coating (napaColor84™ - standard black) = $118

6. Protective Top-Coat (napaTop78S™ - satin finish) = $118

7. Remove unwanted creases & affixing color coating firmly into the grain (Hot-Kiss-Plating™) = $59

8. Non-stick buttery feel conditioning with the unforgettable classic leather scent (leatherScent’B™) = $29.50

Total = $531

The question often asked, is this an exorbitant price?

For a high-end branded label it is still too cheap for (Brioni®, Zegna®, Brunello Cucinelli® etc.)

For a low end brand than too expensive might be right (one too can buy more than 3 brand new jackets).

I have personally done prices that I ask for a seemingly affordable Danier® (to better than the original).

In leather work “cheap is expensive and expensive is cheap”, it is that confusing!

Every piece of work for the leather fashion becomes a walking testimony of our skill.

And every wearer that parades our work becomes our unpaid cheer leader!

In the leather fashion world price is of no object!

It is the ability to deliver with a “Wow” factor that matters!

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

 

[The Great Oz]

Very informative presentation. Thanks to Shorty for making the time and the room and to Roger for making the presentation. I learned quite a bit.

 

[Roger Koh]

Very informative presentation. I learned quite a bit.

Yes, keep on learning!

"Leather" is the last frontier of the cleaning & restoration industry.

Which segment of the industry can we still "physical" work when we are on our wheelchair for that $1000.00 a day with dignity (think about it?).

I can explain if you like too!

When you know how to deliver quality service of “Brands or High-end Leather Fashion Labels”, high-end upholstery leather type like these pictures is much easier to accomplish.

Want to know why?

And can you identify the upholstery leather type too?

And also are you curious to know the story of the before and after?


#1: Before

#2: After

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

 

[Jack May]

Two toned pigmented?

Client cleaned off a spill that required a light solvent that has removed the top coat and top layer of pigment?

John

 

[Roger Koh]

Good Try!

How about you making a guess?

 

[Ron Lippold]

Hey Roger

Nice seeing you in vegas please take a look at this leather and tell me if it can be cleaned, it is urineabout the size of a small plate
.

Thanks again and please give me your phone number and address

 

[jayjacques]

For the pics of the sofa Roger posted...
My guess it'd be a semi-aniline. I'd do the water drops test to see. All I've done up to this point on these different types is make my existing dyes work as best I can, try to thin down when necessary. Been lucky so far, but I know it's getting time I'm needing to get a set of aniline dyes.

Roger, if it is topcoat pigmented, but wore off, did you use your relaxer and fat liquor chemicals on it successfully?

 

[Roger Koh]

See tips on “urine decontamination”

http://www.leathercleaningrestorationfo ... d.php?t=78

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

 

[Roger Koh]

For the pics of the sofa Roger posted...
My guess it'd be a semi-aniline. I'd do the water drops test to see.

Semi-Aniline still have the opaque look can’t differentiate the difference from a pigmented without the “water test”.

No! The picture above is neither “Semi-Aniline” nor “Two-toned Pigmented” as John said.

All I've done up to this point on these different types is make my existing dyes work as best I can, try to thin down when necessary.

These are the different “pigment” color coat for different leather types:

Remember they too come with matching “Topcoats” too!

pigColor64™ (15 colors) is a compact resin blend high performance aqueous pigment color basecoat for pigmented leathers.

semiColor74™ (15 colors) is a soft compact resin blend high performance aqueous fine color basecoat for semi-aniline leathers.

nubukColor94™ (15 colors) is an aqueous micro pigment non bleed formulation to refinish sun fading suede or nubuck.

napaColor84™ (15 colors) is a soft satin nitrocellulose lacquer emulsion with excellent stability as a color base coat for fine napa/lamb leathers.

antiqueColor24™ (black-12) is an aqueous proprietary secondary color effect for antiquing leathers.

chameColor95™ (11 colors) is an aqueous proprietary secondary chameleon color effect.

fluoresColor96™ (5 colors) is an aqueous proprietary secondary fluorescent color effect.

metalColor98™ (4 colors) is an aqueous proprietary secondary metallic color effect.

pearlColor97™ (8 colors) is an aqueous proprietary secondary pearlescent color effect.

Been lucky so far, but I know it's getting time I'm needing to get a set of aniline dyes.

These are available transparent “dyestuff” for different leather types with matching “Topcoats” too!

anilineDye21™ (9 colors) is a low VOC aqueous transparent “dye-on” dye that is more lively and brilliant for aniline leathers.

bicastDye27™ (9 colors) is a high gloss polyurethane secondary transparent dyestuff* for bicast leathers.

suedeDye12™ (9 colors) is a low VOC aqueous transparent “dye-thru” dye that is more lively and brilliant for deep penetration of nubuck or suede used in conjunction with nubukColor94™.

I hope this professional range of “pigment” and “dyestuff” can bring you better luck!

Roger, if it is topcoat pigmented, but wore off, did you use your relaxer and fat liquor chemicals on it successfully?

Yes!

relaxer3.3™ is to rehydrate the leather structure (as a preconditioner prior to effective fatliquoring).

fatliquor5.0™ is to replenish the original fatliquor that has diminished (signs are the coarse breaks and creases).

impregnator26™ is a protein resin blend compound formulation to fill and tighten worn grains and surface micro cracks (even out the surface strength prior to adhesion73™).

adhesion73™ is an aqueous compact resin adhesion promoter to improve adhesion for further finish color coating.

When you follow this system, I believe very soon you will be richer than you first believe!

And continuous learning can be accomplished from here too!

Unbelievable! What a way to acquire potential knowledge (equals earnings)!!!

What do you think?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

 

[Roger Koh]

Hey Roger

Nice seeing you in vegas please take a look at this leather and tell me if it can be cleaned, it is urineabout the size of a small plate
Thanks again and please give me your phone number and address

Tell us how the urine gets there, from human or animal?

How long ago?

Any attempt to it?

Looks salvageable!

Send it to me quick without delay (check your mail)!

As urine with time is a leather “denaturant”!

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System.
604 468 2340 (Pacific Standard Time)

 

[Roger Koh]

This topic on “Cleaning Very Soiled Nubuck” might interest you too!

See http://www.leathercleaningrestorationfo ... .php?t=342