NobleCarpetCleaners
Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2010
- Messages
- 1,191
- Name
- Noble Carpet Cleaners
There's going to be a continued interest among TM'ers for RV products. Let me offer my hands on experience and mods for those who have never owned one up to this point.
First of all the bench mark for me is a 14" wand with at least an 06 in jetting fed with 500-650 psi, full 230 degrees at the TM. Pre-vac and pre-spray, no raking or additional agitation. That's my style on a daily basis for better or worse. Yes I use agitation as needed but that's a whole other thread.
It's always been a pet peeve of mine to use standards or bench marks when talking about things. That's why I mention a 14" wand. On a side note, even a glided wide wears me out, hence I've always reached for some type of mechanical help.
I've been dinking in my shop with RV stuff long enough to say even if it's IMHO that the original twin cup RV and the 360 are not originally designed for the flow and temps of our contemporary TM's. They would be candidates for a complete re-model for high flow and temp but don't hold your breath. I'll willing to bet my favorite beer that RV makes only stuff they can market effectively and make a considerable margin on. The best evidence I can offer on that theory is that they market the product to beginners as a package which includes a portable.
So, to make a long story short on the original model, I increased the actual vacuum slots from 3/16 to 1/4". It's a chore to accomplish and not something I've found the average cleaner can accomplish. Huge increase in cfm. Formed and installed a larger plenum leading to the banjo. Very small increase in cfm. Fabricated a high flow "Y" at the end of the 1 1/2" wand. A notable increase in cfm. Last thing I did (early last year) was form and install a 2" wand. Holy shit.
The 360 comes with a PMF or some other POS valve that lacks an effective fulcrum advantage to the valve stem. I installed a WP valve and that made a big difference. When my TM spikes during idle periods (and many heat ex units do) the new valve will work against the increased pressure build up.
The 360 needs a kick stand. Some bitch will fall back against the solution line. Hey RV, what are you thinking sometimes? I mean really, you obviously don't use the shit you make on a day in day out basis. Anyway, I got creative with a PVC tee and some PVC pipe mounted on one of the handle cross members and it works ok.
The original 360 will overspray 3-6 inches (better then the RX). A veteran cleaner will say, "ya but it's not that bad". Well I say any overspray is unacceptable. So, the jets can be wrenched a bit and it will reduce it substantially. The stock jets will dribble. Joe Bristor has check valve ball, springs and retainers and I can instruct someone on how the drill and cut the threads. Spray Systems flood jets unfortunately aren't threaded on the inside. Why some are is an interesting story.
On the original 360 I thought the 1 1/2" inlet (where you attach a vac hose) to the main plenum was a poor choice but after closely reviewing it with a friend, my opinion is that the pressure rise (vacuum increase if that helps you better understand it) is more then enough when running my Coolcuffs 2"to11/2" reducer down to the inlet. I think RV's current 360 may have a 2" inlet now which is find for TM'ers.
The current 360 has newer cupped vac shoes made of cast stainless (if I heard that correct) steel and it boasts to contain all potential overspray. That's good in many ways. Overspray on baseboards and hard surfaces is a nuisance and it allows the Spray Systems flood jet to impact the field completely. And I think is was RV themselves who told me the new shoe is guaranteed for life. They have to sell the new style shoes ($210.00) with a new block because of some reason the bolt holes aren't the same as for the old non teflon shoes. I think that's frigging lame that any manufacturer doesn't keep things consistent and that small changes effect so much. But I'm kinda a crumpy complainer
More later.
First of all the bench mark for me is a 14" wand with at least an 06 in jetting fed with 500-650 psi, full 230 degrees at the TM. Pre-vac and pre-spray, no raking or additional agitation. That's my style on a daily basis for better or worse. Yes I use agitation as needed but that's a whole other thread.
It's always been a pet peeve of mine to use standards or bench marks when talking about things. That's why I mention a 14" wand. On a side note, even a glided wide wears me out, hence I've always reached for some type of mechanical help.
I've been dinking in my shop with RV stuff long enough to say even if it's IMHO that the original twin cup RV and the 360 are not originally designed for the flow and temps of our contemporary TM's. They would be candidates for a complete re-model for high flow and temp but don't hold your breath. I'll willing to bet my favorite beer that RV makes only stuff they can market effectively and make a considerable margin on. The best evidence I can offer on that theory is that they market the product to beginners as a package which includes a portable.
So, to make a long story short on the original model, I increased the actual vacuum slots from 3/16 to 1/4". It's a chore to accomplish and not something I've found the average cleaner can accomplish. Huge increase in cfm. Formed and installed a larger plenum leading to the banjo. Very small increase in cfm. Fabricated a high flow "Y" at the end of the 1 1/2" wand. A notable increase in cfm. Last thing I did (early last year) was form and install a 2" wand. Holy shit.
The 360 comes with a PMF or some other POS valve that lacks an effective fulcrum advantage to the valve stem. I installed a WP valve and that made a big difference. When my TM spikes during idle periods (and many heat ex units do) the new valve will work against the increased pressure build up.
The 360 needs a kick stand. Some bitch will fall back against the solution line. Hey RV, what are you thinking sometimes? I mean really, you obviously don't use the shit you make on a day in day out basis. Anyway, I got creative with a PVC tee and some PVC pipe mounted on one of the handle cross members and it works ok.
The original 360 will overspray 3-6 inches (better then the RX). A veteran cleaner will say, "ya but it's not that bad". Well I say any overspray is unacceptable. So, the jets can be wrenched a bit and it will reduce it substantially. The stock jets will dribble. Joe Bristor has check valve ball, springs and retainers and I can instruct someone on how the drill and cut the threads. Spray Systems flood jets unfortunately aren't threaded on the inside. Why some are is an interesting story.
On the original 360 I thought the 1 1/2" inlet (where you attach a vac hose) to the main plenum was a poor choice but after closely reviewing it with a friend, my opinion is that the pressure rise (vacuum increase if that helps you better understand it) is more then enough when running my Coolcuffs 2"to11/2" reducer down to the inlet. I think RV's current 360 may have a 2" inlet now which is find for TM'ers.
The current 360 has newer cupped vac shoes made of cast stainless (if I heard that correct) steel and it boasts to contain all potential overspray. That's good in many ways. Overspray on baseboards and hard surfaces is a nuisance and it allows the Spray Systems flood jet to impact the field completely. And I think is was RV themselves who told me the new shoe is guaranteed for life. They have to sell the new style shoes ($210.00) with a new block because of some reason the bolt holes aren't the same as for the old non teflon shoes. I think that's frigging lame that any manufacturer doesn't keep things consistent and that small changes effect so much. But I'm kinda a crumpy complainer
More later.
