NobleCarpetCleaners
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- Joined
- May 16, 2010
- Messages
- 1,191
- Name
- Noble Carpet Cleaners
Another 370 tip I'll add. If the incoming water pressure regulator isn't adjusted just right, the water level in the pressurized water box may not be entirely full. If it decreases enough (as I have recently found) you will get a cavitation to the water pump. You'll having fluctuating pressure (from normal to nothing in a matter of a second or less at the tool) and out at the machine the pressure will jump to where you set it and then sink. It's frustrating knowing that you have normal water pressure feeding the machine.
The level of the pressurized tank in my case had snuck down rather low. I shut down, grabbed a towel and cracked the seal on the radiator cap of the tank. Big burp of air. Left the cap cracked open and I could hear water start flowing into the tank. I waited, probably 30 secs. Water started flowing from around the cap and I twisted it tight. No water flowing however out the overflow tube. My mechanic installed an overflow tube from the fill neck out the bottom of my truck. It dawned on me I haven't seen a "pee spot" under the truck in awhile.
Fired up the machine. Ran water out a hose from the solution outlet; full open. Stop and wait for the pressure in the tank to equalize against the setting of the regulator (think of it as the tank filling up like a float valve would do). Look under the truck, no overflow squirt. Adjust the regulator 1 turn and flow water then stop. Probably did 3 or 4 turns before I got a brief trickle out the overflow indicating the tank level is totally full, no air pocket.
First 2 or 3 jobs what a difference in sustained heat. The stored heat energy in Sapphires water box design (assuming the dam thing is full) is pretty darn cool. Not only does is store heat, it pressure feeds the water pump. My advise is if you don't have an overflow tube installed, get one. And if you don't see a tiny puddle under yer truck after a job, your water level may not be what you expect. And it may never get low enough to cavitate but if it's not completely full you're loosing out on some heat at your tools.
The level of the pressurized tank in my case had snuck down rather low. I shut down, grabbed a towel and cracked the seal on the radiator cap of the tank. Big burp of air. Left the cap cracked open and I could hear water start flowing into the tank. I waited, probably 30 secs. Water started flowing from around the cap and I twisted it tight. No water flowing however out the overflow tube. My mechanic installed an overflow tube from the fill neck out the bottom of my truck. It dawned on me I haven't seen a "pee spot" under the truck in awhile.
Fired up the machine. Ran water out a hose from the solution outlet; full open. Stop and wait for the pressure in the tank to equalize against the setting of the regulator (think of it as the tank filling up like a float valve would do). Look under the truck, no overflow squirt. Adjust the regulator 1 turn and flow water then stop. Probably did 3 or 4 turns before I got a brief trickle out the overflow indicating the tank level is totally full, no air pocket.
First 2 or 3 jobs what a difference in sustained heat. The stored heat energy in Sapphires water box design (assuming the dam thing is full) is pretty darn cool. Not only does is store heat, it pressure feeds the water pump. My advise is if you don't have an overflow tube installed, get one. And if you don't see a tiny puddle under yer truck after a job, your water level may not be what you expect. And it may never get low enough to cavitate but if it's not completely full you're loosing out on some heat at your tools.
