Starter won't disengage on my Blueline Bluewave

RandyH

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Feb 28, 2007
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I am very thankful for anti-depressants. My blueline bluewave has been down for 5 days. It all started when i heard a grinding noise when the engine was started. few days later in made a loud grinding noise , I went to turn it off and it kept running with a horrible screaching and grinding sound, the ignition key would not turn off the engine and it quit in about 30 seconds. Replaced starter and waited for a new ignition switch to be overnited.The next day I decided to check wiring through out. I pulled out the harness under the engine which was also about an inch away from the heat exchanger to find a mass of Melted,Bare , Fused Together Wiring.. Proceded to replace the wiring up to where it looked undamaged. Put in ignition switch. Went to start the engine with same results. The started would not disengage and the key would not stop the engine. It stopped after frying new starter. Even after replacing about 15 fused bare wires , I have the same problem. Any ideas ???
 

RandyH

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Feb 28, 2007
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Mr. FCC, Thanks for the trouble of posting the electrical diagram. I have mine, but I will check to see if everything is the same.
 

Jim Martin

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RandyH said:
I am very thankful for anti-depressants. My blueline bluewave has been down for 5 days. It all started when i heard a grinding noise when the engine was started. few days later in made a loud grinding noise , I went to turn it off and it kept running with a horrible screaching and grinding sound, the ignition key would not turn off the engine and it quit in about 30 seconds. Replaced starter and waited for a new ignition switch to be overnited.The next day I decided to check wiring through out. I pulled out the harness under the engine which was also about an inch away from the heat exchanger to find a mass of Melted,Bare , Fused Together Wiring.. Proceded to replace the wiring up to where it looked undamaged. Put in ignition switch. Went to start the engine with same results. The started would not disengage and the key would not stop the engine. It stopped after frying new starter. Even after replacing about 15 fused bare wires , I have the same problem. Any ideas ???

sounds to me more like the wire fused together because of the over load on the starter...not from the HX.....more so if you are still having the exact same problem after you repaired the wires.....

once you turn the key and the starter engages if the starter solenoid gets stuck or is weak then you are going to get the grinding noise because it is not engaging into the fly wheel on the engine all the way...if it engages it may not want to release...now the engine is spinning the solenoid and amping it up which could cause a melt down...more then likely it took out the starter solenoid and not the entire starter which in most cases can be replaced cheaper then the whole unit.....

But......you replaced the starter (and I assume it came with a new solenoid and you did not use the old one).....so that would tell me that for some reason when you turn the key switch that something is not releasing the power to the starter.....the very first place I would look is at the relay..(in the picture..first one on the right)...or one of the ignition coils...

there is that off chance that it was just the starter solenoid in the first place and that once it stuck it over amped and fused the relay together and now although it seems like the same problem.... it could be it just took out the relay...and now it is doing the same thing.....

this is a classic reason as to why...every starter should have its own in line fuse coming directly off the starter its self.....and then go into the wiring harness.....if you look at the wiring diagram there is no protection between the wiring harness and the starter...this is another good indication that the starter took out the harness.....
 
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Noble Carpet Cleaners
Put the starters on the work bench and strap each one down with something simple. Apply 12volts and watch the solenoid click in and out with the applied voltage. That's normal operation. If it's staying engaged on the engine you have a wiring problem plain and simple. It sounds like your start circuit is shorted to ground.
 

Jim Martin

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NobleCarpetCleaners said:
Put the starters on the work bench and strap each one down with something simple. Apply 12volts and watch the solenoid click in and out with the applied voltage. That's normal operation. If it's staying engaged on the engine you have a wiring problem plain and simple. It sounds like your start circuit is shorted to ground.

you can bench test it....but..keep in mind it is not always 100% accurate...there is a big difference in a starter engaging and disengaging on a bench...then one hooked on an engine under a load.....
 

Jimbo

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Also might add the obvious...next time you try a new starter in there...have the positive battery cable clamp a little lose...and be willing to pull the clamp and cable off the battery should the next starter hang up.
 
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I'm Rick James
Isnt there a clip ring that prevents the starting going to far into the flywheel, not allowing it to fully retract?

Wiring grounding out.

Bad ignition switch.

Not the right starter.

I went through a couple of starters because they had a shitty ground.
 

GeneMiller

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pull the coil wire so it won't start to test out starter. i like bench testing first and then on the engine.

gene
 

RandyH

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Feb 28, 2007
Messages
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Thanks for all the help. I got smart and took it to an auto electric shop I was referred too. Since all the melted wire was replaced and the problem of starter not disengaging was still there, the only possible thing left was that the small wire on the starter that was conected to the switch was continually hot. it must be bare somewhere in the part of the harness that looked fine. He ran a wire directly from the switch to starter and I was " on the road agin". The wiring harness was being cooked for three years. It was finally time to do something about it . It was just plain STUPID to put the wiring harness where they did!
 

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