THE BEST PRESSURE REGULATOR
- Thread starter bob vawter
- Start date
Nate The Great
Member
So where can one get that pressure regulator?
bob vawter
Grassy Knoller
ya-huh!!!!!
bob vawter
Grassy Knoller
Chris.......they ALL have different S/N's.......
turn it over and look at the Model #
Yup, thought since it was an older pic, it could have been the one in our unit. No Dice
Shawn Forsythe
RIP
We put those on the Steam Genie PTO's for about 8 years. The reason we stopped, amazingly enough, was customer service pressure. Customers demanding a lesser valve.
It sounds crazy, right? I mean we didn't lower the price on the units when we made the change, but still it made for more happy customers.
You see, any pressure regulator will have wearing components, usually seals. On the all-stainless steel Paraplate 13020 regulator it is three o-rings. Total retail cost for a repair kit, around $2.00. When the valve begins to leak through the spring body, and drips out the front, you disassemble the valve, replace the o-rings, and you're done. Total: 1/2 hour plus the $2.00 kit. The kits last as long as any repair kit for any other valve, but just cost so much less. The 13020 is the least expensive valve you can use, and it is also the best.
Here's the rub. People don't take care of it. When the o-rings wear out, they let their valve leak, and leak, and leak for days, maybe even weeks. They let the valve leak until it either gets so bad it makes a mess, or the valve ceases to function properly. You see, at a certain point of wear on the o-rings, the internal moving parts lose the clearance that the o-rings provide. Eventually you get metal-metal contact between the poppet and the insert, or you get scraping contact between the insert and the valve body. These contact points eventually create deep striations on the surfaces of the parts where the o-rings ride. Putting the $2.00 kit in the valve at this point is worthless. The striations and grooves tear up the new o-rings in hours or if you are lucky, they last a few days.
The net result is that the user has to pay for expensive repairs on the valve, or replace the valve altogether. If they had taken care of it early, the valve parts last practically forever. That valve is expensive. much more expensive than the el-cheapo valves on competitors units. The customer then is upset that we use a valve that is so expensive to fix, when they themselves inflicted the damage through neglect.
Bottom line........ Put in one of the el-cheapo valves, and you rarely have a complaint. These valves not only wear on the seals, but all the brass components wear too-in normal operation. The valves take more expensive kits, and the brass bodies require replacement even with the best of care. But a new valve is 1/4 the cost of the 13020.
Sometimes its actually easier to make a customer happy with crap, than the best money can buy, even if you charge the same price up front.
For those that understood that the Paraplate valve will, in the long run, be the least expensive valve that they can own, we still offered the option.
It sounds crazy, right? I mean we didn't lower the price on the units when we made the change, but still it made for more happy customers.
You see, any pressure regulator will have wearing components, usually seals. On the all-stainless steel Paraplate 13020 regulator it is three o-rings. Total retail cost for a repair kit, around $2.00. When the valve begins to leak through the spring body, and drips out the front, you disassemble the valve, replace the o-rings, and you're done. Total: 1/2 hour plus the $2.00 kit. The kits last as long as any repair kit for any other valve, but just cost so much less. The 13020 is the least expensive valve you can use, and it is also the best.
Here's the rub. People don't take care of it. When the o-rings wear out, they let their valve leak, and leak, and leak for days, maybe even weeks. They let the valve leak until it either gets so bad it makes a mess, or the valve ceases to function properly. You see, at a certain point of wear on the o-rings, the internal moving parts lose the clearance that the o-rings provide. Eventually you get metal-metal contact between the poppet and the insert, or you get scraping contact between the insert and the valve body. These contact points eventually create deep striations on the surfaces of the parts where the o-rings ride. Putting the $2.00 kit in the valve at this point is worthless. The striations and grooves tear up the new o-rings in hours or if you are lucky, they last a few days.
The net result is that the user has to pay for expensive repairs on the valve, or replace the valve altogether. If they had taken care of it early, the valve parts last practically forever. That valve is expensive. much more expensive than the el-cheapo valves on competitors units. The customer then is upset that we use a valve that is so expensive to fix, when they themselves inflicted the damage through neglect.
Bottom line........ Put in one of the el-cheapo valves, and you rarely have a complaint. These valves not only wear on the seals, but all the brass components wear too-in normal operation. The valves take more expensive kits, and the brass bodies require replacement even with the best of care. But a new valve is 1/4 the cost of the 13020.
Sometimes its actually easier to make a customer happy with crap, than the best money can buy, even if you charge the same price up front.
For those that understood that the Paraplate valve will, in the long run, be the least expensive valve that they can own, we still offered the option.
Connor
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2011
- Messages
- 3,492
- Name
- Connor
bob vawter
Grassy Knoller
and don forget you can put a penny in one of those cheap brass valves....'
and MAYBE get the pressur up to 500-600lbs
bob vawter
Grassy Knoller
i posted that for an anonymous builder here that is building a kick ass unit........
Last edited:
RugWorx
Member
How much does the valve cost and what psi is it rated for? Thanks.
Jimbo
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 2,197
Thanks Bob
