Thermal Relief Valve??

[R W]

I've searched the internet, but can not find the valve I'm looking for. I would like to find a thermal relief valve, such as those used on TM water pumps to keep them from overheating when they build up too much heat. It should be 1/4 or 3/8 inch, set for 3000psi, and pop off at about 240*. Most of those used on TM's are set to relieve at 140-180*. I figure it's the best way to control the Genesis when the diverter decides not to divert. Some days it works with no problems, other days it's overheating all day long (kinda like my wife....). I would connect it right at the solution outlet and run it right to the waste tank.

Any other suggestions??? I'm not ready to buy another TM right now, so I gotta make do with my Genny.

 

[Jay D]

Does It get too hot even when your cleaning? I think a Manual bypass at the wand could also work. Just open the valve when you set down the wand. Close it when you pick it back up. Most thermal relieve valves are to protect the pump from overheating hence the 140 degree rating. I have one on my pump, its just a good idea. www.Pressure-washer-parts.com I think has them.

 

[Shane T]

I don't where you can find the relief valve your looking for but something else to think about related to the diverter sometimes not functioning properly. I've been having trouble with the charging system on my Victory and noticed that when the battery gets low some of the electrical components do not work. Check the voltage at the battery on one of those occasions when it overheats.

 

[Hoody]

I've searched the internet, but can not find the valve I'm looking for. I would like to find a thermal relief valve, such as those used on TM water pumps to keep them from overheating when they build up too much heat. It should be 1/4 or 3/8 inch, set for 3000psi, and pop off at about 240*. Most of those used on TM's are set to relieve at 140-180*. I figure it's the best way to control the Genesis when the diverter decides not to divert. Some days it works with no problems, other days it's overheating all day long (kinda like my wife....). I would connect it right at the solution outlet and run it right to the waste tank.

Any other suggestions??? I'm not ready to buy another TM right now, so I gotta make do with my Genny.

Robert,

I believe the thermal valve on the Genny is coming from the waterbox, a hose it attached then to the waste tank. It is a typical thermostat valve like in a car. It keeps hot water from going through the cat pump and burning up your seals. I would also check the line going to the waste tank, as well as any filters that are in the waterbox. You should be able to use the same thermovalve that is on a prochem performer 405 for your Genny. Or just take it off and go to autozone or napa and see if they can't cross reference it. And you're correct on the temperature setting for it. 180 degree water is not good for the pump seals, if working properly it should dump at around 160.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

A trickle back circuit needs to be used to keep water moving at the valve, otherwise during short periods of inactivity the water at the valve will not be hot enough to trip, while the HX a few inches away could be a rumbling volcano.

 

[Glynn]

http://www.catpumps.com/select/pdfs/7128.pdf

 

[Shane T]

I believe Robert is looking for a fail safe relief valve to install at the end of the exhaust heat exchanger. In the event of of diverter malfunction it would open and discharge high pressure solution. I would suggest that you get to the root of the malfuntioning diverter. Adding another devise to control will probably just cause more breakdowns.
My PowerClean diverter has been very reliable except as I mention in my previous post.
If you really want to add another relief valve, you could install 12 volt valve and another adjustable thermostat like what is already on the front of your machine.


Edit: Just did a quick search and couldn't find a valve that would take the temp and pressure needed.

 

[joe harper]

Robert,

Call John at "Johns Custom Machines"...here is his website...He uses temp relief valves on his
HX units plus a Pop-Off valve...to release excessive pressures...!!!!!!

http://www.hotheatexchangers.com/

 

[R W]

A trickle back circuit needs to be used to keep water moving at the valve, otherwise during short periods of inactivity the water at the valve will not be hot enough to trip, while the HX a few inches away could be a rumbling volcano.

I believe Robert is looking for a fail safe relief valve to install at the end of the exhaust heat exchanger. In the event of of diverter malfunction it would open and discharge high pressure solution. I would suggest that you get to the root of the malfuntioning diverter. Adding another devise to control will probably just cause more breakdowns.
My PowerClean diverter has been very reliable except as I mention in my previous post.
If you really want to add another relief valve, you could install 12 volt valve and another adjustable thermostat like what is already on the front of your machine.


Edit: Just did a quick search and couldn't find a valve that would take the temp and pressure needed.

Lee....there is usually water flowing, at least a small flow. When I use the upholstery tool is when it seems to "not divert" , allthough I use a PC tool with bypass.

Shane....this Genny is 6 years old, and runs fine...most of the time. The diverter malfunction is one of those "you never know when" problems. I've changed solinoids, new battery, it charges just fine, but it still just decides on it's own when it wants to malfunction. If I am constantly using the wand, or 2 wands, there isn't a problem. I just hate running out to the van and finding the temp guage at 300*....there goes the QD fittings. If I can get a small divertion right at the outlet when the solution is getting up over 240*, it would keep things cooler. I would notice the divertion while using the wand because the pressure would drop some, and the temp wouldn't climb over 240*, or what ever the relief valve is set at.

This would just be a time saver, since I wouldn't have to run out to the van and drain off the heat.

 

[Shane T]

Are you curtian the thermostat is properly adjusted?
I do notice that when my thermo is set at 230 and I set the wand down for an extended time the temp will rise 20-30 degrees.

 

[R W]

Are you curtian the thermostat is properly adjusted?
I do notice that when my thermo is set at 230 and I set the wand down for an extended time the temp will rise 20-30 degrees.

Yes.....it diverts when it reaches the set temp, but if I set the wand down, or slow down the water flow, it will build heat and not divert. All I can say is it's "finicky"....I'm going to play around with it this weekend. If the solinoid rod is not perfectly aligned with the diverter flapper, it will jam in the "heat" position. I'm sure heat and expansion in the solinoid itself is part of the problem.

 

[Ron Werner]

why not divert back to the solution tank so you're not filling your recovery

 

[Shane T]

I'm sure you have already done this but take the diverter apart and polish the flapper shaft. Oh and here's tip on those square diverter gaskets. Don't bother using them. The machined parts fit nicely together and don't leak without the gaskets. Someonelse told me this and I've been doing now for months with no problem.

 

[joe harper]

RW,

I had the same concern as you when I first started using one of John's HX.....He has 2 pressure
relief valves on his HX...but I was really concerned if they would FAIL...

So here is what I did as A FAIL-SAFE measure......!!!!!!!

1.Buy or build yourself a "T"...for your solution line...
2.Plug the "T"..into your Machine...
3.On one side of the...Run you main solution line..
4.On the othe side of the "T"...Make a 5' or 6' "jumper hose"...
5.The "jumper hose"....should be run back into your FRESH WATER tank...
6 On the "jumper hose"..install a ball "shut-off valve"...so you can bleed off 100 psi of pressure..
7.This set-up..Will PREVENT..super heating of the HX..&..serve a as PRE-HEATER for your water..
8.It is a FREE-FLOW system for you pump...NO HAMMERING of the cups..when wand is NOT keyed..
9.When you are doing upholstery...you can open the "ball-valve to 200psi"...NO over-heating....
10.This will also STOP your unit from By-Passing into the Waste Tank...


PS..If you DO NOT use a fresh water tank....Run the "jumper hose"...Into your Waste Tank....
Just drill a small hole into the Waste Tank...&...mount a QD...

 

[R W]

I'm sure you have already done this but take the diverter apart and polish the flapper shaft. Oh and here's tip on those square diverter gaskets. Don't bother using them. The machined parts fit nicely together and don't leak without the gaskets. Someonelse told me this and I've been doing now for months with no problem.

I've got an extra diverter box and flap that I will probably install today. As for the gaskets, I stopped using them when they were costing $20 a piece, and they rarely made it through the mail or UPS with out damage. They were made of some type of layered material, and were easily damaged in transit.

RW,



So here is what I did as A FAIL-SAFE measure......!!!!!!!

1.Buy or build yourself a "T"...for your solution line...
2.Plug the "T"..into your Machine...
3.On one side of the...Run you main solution line..
4.On the othe side of the "T"...Make a 5' or 6' "jumper hose"...
5.The "jumper hose"....should be run back into your FRESH WATER tank...
6 On the "jumper hose"..install a ball "shut-off valve"...so you can bleed off 100 psi of pressure..
7.This set-up..Will PREVENT..super heating of the HX..&..serve a as PRE-HEATER for your water..
8.It is a FREE-FLOW system for you pump...NO HAMMERING of the cups..when wand is NOT keyed..
9.When you are doing upholstery...you can open the "ball-valve to 200psi"...NO over-heating....
10.This will also STOP your unit from By-Passing into the Waste Tank...


PS..If you DO NOT use a fresh water tank....Run the "jumper hose"...Into your Waste Tank....
Just drill a small hole into the Waste Tank...&...mount a QD...

Harp.....that is my main objective....a fail safe system. I have no fresh water tank, other than the standard PC 2 gallon box. I have set out a short drain line right to the waste tank, and crack open the valve to drain off about 100 psi, when needed.