Truckmount help

martin

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Feb 4, 2013
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Redondo Beach CA
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Martin Vincent
Have a 405 Prochem Performer 1200 hrs that stalls out after being used for 1-1 1/2 hrs. Hard to turn over but eventually does. Disconnected the relay switch...same problem. Mechanic has had it twice in the last week and can't get it to stall for him. Plugs,cap and rotor replaced...still stalling. Seems like when they're working on it they just run it for hrs without using it to try to stall it. Anyone have this problem?
 

hogjowl

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Prattville, Alabama
Have a 405 Prochem Performer 1200 hrs that stalls out after being used for 1-1 1/2 hrs. Hard to turn over but eventually does. Disconnected the relay switch...same problem. Mechanic has had it twice in the last week and can't get it to stall for him. Plugs,cap and rotor replaced...still stalling. Seems like when they're working on it they just run it for hrs without using it to try to stall it. Anyone have this problem?

Yes, as a matter of fact I DID have that exact same problem with my one and only Prochem TM. It was over 20 years ago. Prochem told me it couldn't be happening. I eventually solved the problem by selling it.

Never owned another Prochem since.
 
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I'm Rick James
When you turn on the override to start it does it make a click?

WHen you say its hard to turn over .. is it sluggish or just turns over fine but doesn't start?

You check the radiator fluid?
 

Desk Jockey

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A planet far far away
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I thought radiator also. Often if the level is low the high temp solenoid will shut it down but an hour and half is a long time for that.

Is the fuel pump mounted on the unit or under the van? Have you checked the ground wire for the fuel pump. I had one why the connection worked its way loose.
 

martin

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Redondo Beach CA
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Martin Vincent
Radiator level is fine. It runs fine for about an hour then sputters and eventually shuts off. It then turns over but takes 4-5 attempts to get it to start. Once restarted the idle sputters and it sometimes dies again. Once I get it back going again it eventually shuts down while working. Did this 8-9 times in a 45 minute period yesterday. Fuel pump ground was checked and tightened.
 

SMRBAP

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How'd you tap the fuel tank? OEM or DIY? Maybe vapor lock?

Also - I have had fuel pumps work intermittently before and cause this issue. Mate it to a parts store unit, bet it's under $40. Swap it out (change the fuel filter that should be in front of it too). If that's not it you have a spare (eventually need it anyway).
 

SamIam

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Could be a bad temp selnoid unplug it see if it still happens if it was oil or water I would think you would have to add either one to get it started again. Maybe a low pressure high pressure switch is going bad?

Also change the fuel filter if you haven't done that yet
 

floorguy

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How'd you tap the fuel tank? OEM or DIY? Maybe vapor lock?

Also - I have had fuel pumps work intermittently before and cause this issue. Mate it to a parts store unit, bet it's under $40. Swap it out (change the fuel filter that should be in front of it too). If that's not it you have a spare (eventually need it anyway).


yup i was think vapor lock to...

is it tied into the vehicles tank, or does it have its own???

if it is its own....how are the return line and draw line setup??

mine was in a Tee, and it kept locking up...I am guessing sucking air in between return pulses.....anyway, took out the tee and made it have its own return spot back to the tank....never a problem again
 

SamIam

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There are 2 fuel filter on the 405 a small one before the carburetor. I've never replaced those on either of mine but maybe the second one is giving you problems
 

GCCLee

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Try removing the gas cap. If it has gone bad and won't vent, troubleshooters nightmare!
 
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BradFenstermaker
Grab a fuel pump at local parts store. If thats not it you have a spare.

At mechanic they may not have it under load while testing.

What about ignition coil going out after its wArm??
 
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Lee Stockwell
Carb or FI? I have lots of experience with the Nissan carb version.

Troubleshooting is simply process of elimination. It's either fuel or fire.

I'll assume coolant and OIL levels are full, and that air and fuel filters are clean. Check those FIRST.

FUEL:

Our fuel pumps are under the vans, over the frame rail. Pumps last for many years. Should push at least 4 psi. There is a factory filter ON the pump. I also have a clear fuel filter inside the van that I've mounted on a loop attached high on the hose between blower and waste tank so you can SEE if you are getting fuel while starting or running. There is also a small filter on the carb inlet (never a problem).

A "quick and dirty" diagnostic is to put little gas or wd40 in the carb throat. (DON'T if you are a clumsy moron)

FIRE:

There are TWO ways TMs kill the ignition: shut off power to the + side of the coil (it's marked).
Or, ground the minus side of the coil. On most TMs this is how hi temp and hi level shutoffs work.

To troubleshoot, remove all wires on the minus post of the coil EXCEPT the one that comes directly from the distributor.

Likewise to troubleshoot the + side of the coil run a temporary HOT wire to the + post.


more....
 

rwcarpet

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Martin.....I had (I still have it in the shop) a 405 Performer. Always ran fine until one day it just shut down. Waited awhile, starts right up. After a short run, shuts down again. Spent a weekend troubleshooting. Just about ready to head to dealers which was 2 hours away, and I found the problem. Yellow wire to the coil was loose to the terminal connector, and after heating up, it would pull away from the coil just enough to shut down the TM. Could tell by looking, I have to actually move the wire to see the loose connection.

There's one more thing you might check........all wire connection terminals.
 

floorguy

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ohhh been there, thought it needed a tune up (which was nice in the end anyway)

anyway....wouldnt fire up after....ohhhh i was pissed....took me a few hrs, and then i saw that little bastard had broke.....
 

HogFan

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Arkansas
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Nick Petersen
When mine was doing that it was because the gas wasn't pumping to my machine. Take off the line where the gas goes to the machine and turn the key and see if gas is pumping.
 

MerCrewser

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Jan 23, 2007
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I had the same problem. It was vapor lock. The fuel pump may be getting weak and losing pressure. Try running it without the covers on to release some heat. I have to do this on really hot summer days. It happens more on lower throttle settings for me.
 
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martin

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Redondo Beach CA
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Martin Vincent
looks like it might have been vapor lock. The mechanic re-routed the fuel line to the outside of the frame that holds the truck mount. It was under the machine before in a place where it was almost laying on the heat exchanger. The old hose looked a little bubbly in that area. It was cooking the gas it seems and after about an hour starting to shut down. Plus in CA. we do that MTBE conversion additive to gasoline that can increase the chances of vapor lock with high temps.
 
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looks like it might have been vapor lock. The mechanic re-routed the fuel line to the outside of the frame that holds the truck mount. It was under the machine before in a place where it was almost laying on the heat exchanger. The old hose looked a little bubbly in that area. It was cooking the gas it seems and after about an hour starting to shut down. Plus in CA. we do that MTBE conversion additive to gasoline that can increase the chances of vapor lock with high temps.
Good Googly Moogly!!!! No wonder some TMs burn. Was that a "professional install"?

That's several times now I've heard of fuel line routed next to exhaust plumbing.
 
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