Two Quick Mods

[Johnny]

A couple quick mods I recently did to my PowerClean Freedom 47:

Wrapped the exhaust heat exchanger with header wrap and duct insulation. Was too hot, hard to keep the machine below 260 with no ex diverter so I removed the duct insulation from the ex-manifold to the HX. Now have a 20-30 degree gain. Machine also heats up quicker.

Engine air intake was at the hottest area of the van, directly above the exhaust manifold and the exhaust HX. Hose-clamped a length of 2" vac hose to the air cleaner and ran the other end outside for cooler air. Gained a little power, engine doesn't bog down as much when wand is on the carpet, but also definately burning more fuel. No adjustment on the carb. Anyone know if this (leaner mix?) is bad for the motor (Kohler 25 water-cooled)?

 

[GeneMiller]

John,
It is a bad idea to run a lean mix. It causes the engine to overheat, causing internal parts of the engine to get extremely hot. You want the correct mixture of air and fuel to get the best performance from the engine. I don't know what to tell you about the carburetor adjustment. Sorry.

Gene

 

[Johnny]

Thanks, Gene.

Not sure about the mix. Thought running cooler, denser air would lean it out, but its also burning more fuel.

 

[dgardner]

Engine air intake was at the hottest area of the van, directly above the exhaust manifold and the exhaust HX. Hose-clamped a length of 2" vac hose to the air cleaner and ran the other end outside for cooler air. Gained a little power, engine doesn't bog down as much when wand is on the carpet, but also definately burning more fuel. No adjustment on the carb. Anyone know if this (leaner mix?) is bad for the motor (Kohler 25 water-cooled)?

Actually, your mixture may not have changed at all. Hot air is less dense, and will pull less fuel through the jet(s). You ducted in cooler, denser air, and the increased airflow through the carb venturi is pulling in more fuel.

More (denser) air, more fuel, and, as you say, the engine is making more power. It all adds up.

 

[Greenie]

I'm with Dan.

So you burn a little more fuel, you will have more BTUs for HX, and more HP, "bogging" is not a good thing.

 

[Johnny]

Thanks, Dan & Greenie.

By "bogging" I meant slightly lowering engine rpms under load.

Some of the heat gain I attributed to the HX wrap is probably from the higher rate of fuel burned.

ps. Anyone considering these mods should know I've blown two Goodyear machine solution hoses and leaked a 100' Parflex primary since I did. They weren't new, but looked good. Carry spares.

 

[Chads]

Dude it sounds like your trying to hurt someone at those temps spare hoses are not the anwser when Mrs. Jones is sitting there watching you and a hose blows all over her face burning her with those hot temps as she screams all the way to the hospital doesnt sound worth it. Either get yourself better hoses that hold those temps or lower your temputure on machine. You play with fire your bound to get burned.

 

[Johnny]

Running only around 220-240 with 10-flow GreenHorn (depending on duty cycle) since I removed some of the insulation, not too hot. (I set the thermostat at 240.) Ran about 190-220 with 10-flow GH before mods.

People experimenting with these mods will probably reach higher temps before they dial in the optimal set-up. They should be aware.

Goodyears were on the machine in the van. Parflex doesn't blow, but pin-holes at the machine. No hazard to Ms. Piff.

I like Parflex because it is insulated, delivering more BTUs to the wand, is lighter weight, and doesn't blow. But its lower max heat rating doesn't make it suitable for machine hoses.

Dude.

 

[Walt]

A couple quick mods I recently did to my PowerClean Freedom 47:

Wrapped the exhaust heat exchanger with header wrap and duct insulation. Was too hot, hard to keep the machine below 260 with no ex diverter so I removed the duct insulation from the ex-manifold to the HX. Now have a 20-30 degree gain. Machine also heats up quicker.

Engine air intake was at the hottest area of the van, directly above the exhaust manifold and the exhaust HX. Hose-clamped a length of 2" vac hose to the air cleaner and ran the other end outside for cooler air. Gained a little power, engine doesn't bog down as much when wand is on the carpet, but also definately burning more fuel. No adjustment on the carb. Anyone know if this (leaner mix?) is bad for the motor (Kohler 25 water-cooled)?

Your machine doesn't have a exhaust diverter?

Sounds like good gains. I like the idea of getting the air intake away from the engine heat. I bet that will improve overall life of the engine.

 

[Johnny]

No exhaust diverter. Water is diverted from the exhaust HX into waste tank to cool the machine. Works fine with an APO. But can drop pressure to the wand when diverting to the tank a lot. So you don't want a lot of unusable heat. That's why I removed some of the insulation.

 

[Greenie]

So John, what if say...1/2 of the super hot water were diverted back to the mix tank that feeds the pump, do you think it would be too rapid, and that the machine bypasses often enough that it would excessively heat the Mixtank?

You could T off the bypass line and run a small teflon core braided SS line 1/8" dia. over to the mix tank.

 

[Johnny]

Greenie:

Interesting idea. The mix tank overflow could be fed into the waste tank, so volume wouldn't be an issue.

My mix tank is heated by only the blower HX, so it doesn't get real hot. Don't know what heating the mix further when the system is at max temp would do.

Your idea would salvage some rinse solution that would otherwise be dumped into the waste tank.

 

[GeneMiller]

Greenie I love the fact that you are always thinking how to improve something.

Gene

 

[Johnny]

Greenie I love the fact that you are always thinking how to improve something.

Gene

Wurd.

 

[Ron Werner]

just have to watch the mix tank deosn't get too hot, costs a lot to replace the seals on the pump

 

[jimn]

Hello John,

As a manufacturer, we do not want the machine to produce heat that can be uncontrollable. This can and will cause hoses to blow and possible damage to some of the internal components. I agree that there is "more heat" to use but it needs to be controllable especially if you are "not on the wand" all of the time and allowing water flow consistentaly.

Moving the air intake horn slightly higher will allow the engine to draw in cooler air. I do not suggest that you run that portion any longer than a few inches. A long hose run from the air horn may cause the engine to work a little harder to get the air into the engine and therefore cause excessive fuel use. (if this makes sense). If you are looking to draw in cool air, add a small extension to the air inlet to bring that portion above the unit. We do install it in that position for a reason and that is to allow the engine to draw in warm air to improve fuel economy. It was approved through Kohler this way and that is why we do it this way on most of the units.

Keep in mind that is is a liquid cooled engine so the internal engine components should function properly providing the thermostat is functioning and the liquid heat exchangers are bled of any air in the system. Of course on very hot days the engine may run a bit hotter but not by much. It is also important to make sure you have the proper coolant mixture as reccomended by Kohler. 100% water does not have the cooling capacity like the proper mixture does. The carb does not have a mixture setting like the larger engines do. The only way to change this is by adding a different jet to the carb similar to the engines that may run in higher altitudes.

Give me a call so we can discuss some of the things you have done so I can let you know what the "in's and out's" are. I would be happy to help.. I am running out of room for this post. Call 800-378-0380 and ask for me.

Although Greenies idea is a good one, (we use this on the Liberty) The water temp a Cat pump can handle may be different from others and can cause internal damage to the seals or valves like Ron stated.

Best regards,

Jim

 

[Mikey P]

Thanks for chiming in Jim


I made you a Supportive Member for being such a helpful soul.

 

[jimn]

Thank's Mike..

 

[bob vawter]

Another fact to consider:
Water Grains in the air...a constantly changing factor....

Water Grains is a measure of how much moisture (water) is in a pound of air.
More water in the air equals less power, while less water in the air equals more power.

OK...now WHAT do I get???

 

[Johnny]

Thanks, Jim. I'll give you a call when I get a break.

I've always found PowerClean Support eager to help.

 

[jimn]

John, Sorry I missed ya yesterday..

When you get a minute, give me a buzz.

 

[jimn]

Hey John,

It was a pleasure speaking with you today!

If I can be of any assistance, you have my number, give me a call!

 

[Jimmy L]

Divert the water into the FRESH water tank.

Would even be better to add some sort of radiator and install it in the waste tank for even more cool down.