urine pre spray or stain magic(or similar)

jcooper

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Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
3,232
Location
IL
Name
Jerry Cooper
Normally recent pet issues clean up fine for us. Had a tuff one today. White carpets and 3 month old dog.

Lots of spots, tried some 40vol not much change.

Just wondering, it would be really nice to just use a urine pre spray for jobs with many stains. However, as a pre spray it gets rinsed out. So I'm not getting how this works so fast.

40vol or stain magic stays on and works over time. Anyone actually use a urine pre spray? I'd like a product I can dump in a pumper and spray on after cleaning. Anything like that? Yes stain magic is like that(no pumper), but it's going to take a boat load.

Any advice?
Real nice client, she is happy now. But I'd like it to be even better for her.
 

Lamesalegend

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Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
45
Urine presprays and Urine stain removers work differently. Your thinking is right the pre sprays can't oxidize the yellow discolorations in the short dwell time before extraction. The Urine Stain removers are great and do work. You apply them as your last step and they lighten the stain over a few hours (like Stain Magic does). I use Stain 1 by Pro's-Choice for most of them but Urine Stain Remover works just as well and is much cheaper. Only negative is I've found that USR only removes urine stains (duh) were Stain Magic and Stain 1 remove yellow/brownish type stains caused by other sources.
 
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
352
I hit the urine with oxegen in my pre spray,

then I have a little 1 gallon pump sprayer with strong peroxide, I go aroud at the end and hit the urine spots that didn't come out. If smell is still bad then I'll add some DD12, or odorcide to it.


I always seem to experiment with urine stain and odor treatments, this is just what I'm doing now. I have yet to try hitting the spots with acid before cleaning. Wonder how that works compared to oxegen loaded pre spray?
 

bensurdi

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Jul 3, 2008
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706
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Snohomish,WA
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Benjamin Surdi
I too have experimented a lot to try and find a simple format that can be replicated with consistant results.

I found this to be the most effective:

1. UPT: Before pre-spraying, go around and hit each spot with urine pre-conditioner
2. WaterClaw: Suck UPT out and flush with clear water while doing so
3. Apply Enzyme product of preference and allow 20-30 mins dwell time
4. WaterClaw: Suck out the enzyme
5. Mist spot with whatever pairing agent you want

This will 95% of the time remove the stain, odor and prevent wicking from occuring.

Charge accordingly!
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
1,846
Location
N GA
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BradFenstermaker
Give hydramaster UPS a try. Greenglides told me about this product yrs ago.

I mix it 1 to 4, great deodorizing power too. I have a dedicated hydroforce to apply it. goes down quick.

Either spray spots or whole rooms.

If you mix it stronger warm the customer of strong scent. Not a perfect cure but works great in most situations where the dog is gonna potty inside again later that day .

It will get alot of the stains out as well. Give it a little dwell time. Then go with the products you mentioned if stains still there after you rinse UPS out.

Its not that expensive either.
 

sweendogg

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Jan 15, 2008
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Bloomington, IL 61704
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David Sweeney
Takes deep breath...

Ok first understand urine... its going down hot and acidic and readily penetrates with low surface tension. It is immediatly attacked and digested by bacteria down into ureaic salts that off gas as the bacteria stays active.

So when hitting fresh urine like.. really fresh your best bet is to clean as normal and make sure to flood and subsurface extract the urine out of the sub floor and pad as well as carpet if its a severe contamination. Anything of any age your best bet is to follow Bensurdi's list as you'll first break down the alkaline salts created which will also prepare the stain material to come out. Enzymes are great but if you need something quicker get a bucket heater and some OSR, Petzone, or Miracle oxidizing odor and stain remover. Mix a bucket up of really hot solution with your oxidizer and allow sit 30 minutes.

If you have chosen the enzyme route for the odor, you can still add oxdizers to your prespray like chemspec energize or 40 volume if you prefer. I actually like to use the O2 system primarily for pet problem houses as the sodium borate is a great oxidizer in the o2 prespray and works very quickly on the yellowed stained areas.
 
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
352
For just pure odor problems, I've found flooding and water clawing with quat a lot to be the most effective (of things that I've tried)

FOr mild or moderate issues, I use that system , that I described above.
 

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