Hey guys I need some help. My V wont' go into heat mode, not sure if I should check the thermostat or electrical. Also it blows white smoke out of the lower unit? Model is a 777 I can't find the 12 volt zilonoid ( sorry spelled wrong) which should be under the truck. Thanks
Vortex won't go in heat mode?
- Thread starter cpoole
- Start date
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
few things to check...............
...with the machine off and the truck running do you get exhaust out of the truck tail pipe or is it coming out of the lower therm HX.........
...If it is coming out of the lower HX then your exhaust diverter is stuck closed..could need service...or the breathing stone on the solenoid is clogged.......this is located on the cross member on the frame under the truck just above the diverter..( just follow the hose coming off the diverter)....
Look at the lower HX and see if any oil has blown out of it......... If you are having a diverter problem and it stuck closed and you have been driving around you might of cooked it and cracked the HX..........
good place to start..let me know what you find............
...with the machine off and the truck running do you get exhaust out of the truck tail pipe or is it coming out of the lower therm HX.........
...If it is coming out of the lower HX then your exhaust diverter is stuck closed..could need service...or the breathing stone on the solenoid is clogged.......this is located on the cross member on the frame under the truck just above the diverter..( just follow the hose coming off the diverter)....
Look at the lower HX and see if any oil has blown out of it......... If you are having a diverter problem and it stuck closed and you have been driving around you might of cooked it and cracked the HX..........
good place to start..let me know what you find............
Jim, I took apart my solenoid and the breathing stone and it's not blocked up I can blow threw the number #2 hole and feel it up top I take it the #1 hole needs 12volts to open? I have had my diverter stuck open before but I was told when I bought the truck never to drive with it on so I check that after turning the machine off every time but I did notice its still open about 5% so that could be the white smoke I see sometimes (smokes only sometimes maybe once a week). Not sure what else to look at besides the solenoid and the thermostat. Thanks for your help.
Chris Muetterties
Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2006
- Messages
- 1,652
Have you pulled the flapper and cleaned it ? When was the last time the stone was repalced ?
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
I have a 6008 and I can only tell you how mine works.......
Once the machine is on and I turn on the cat pump that sends power to the temp controller....the temp controller calls for heat and it closes a relay and that sends 12 volts to the solenoid. The solenoid opens and that creates a vacuum and pulls on the diverter plunger and closes the exhaust flap and diverts the exhaust to the lower HX .......Once the heat is satisfied.....the temp controller then breaks the relay and that allows the solenoid to close and the plunger will release out of the breathing stone and the flapper opens back up to exhaust out the pipe...
your temp sensor for the water that it screwed into the pipe just under the front of the top heat exchanger (the therm heater inside )......may have went out.how these things last as long as they do is beyond me..they should be put inside a thermal well for protection.....or you may have lost one of your relays....
start your machine..turn on the cat pump and run your temp controller up to about 300 and see if the diverter opens up................
let me know............
the stone is located on top of the solenoid.....but if the stone was plugged you would be getting full force exhaust out of the lower HX and not the tail pipe
Once the machine is on and I turn on the cat pump that sends power to the temp controller....the temp controller calls for heat and it closes a relay and that sends 12 volts to the solenoid. The solenoid opens and that creates a vacuum and pulls on the diverter plunger and closes the exhaust flap and diverts the exhaust to the lower HX .......Once the heat is satisfied.....the temp controller then breaks the relay and that allows the solenoid to close and the plunger will release out of the breathing stone and the flapper opens back up to exhaust out the pipe...
your temp sensor for the water that it screwed into the pipe just under the front of the top heat exchanger (the therm heater inside )......may have went out.how these things last as long as they do is beyond me..they should be put inside a thermal well for protection.....or you may have lost one of your relays....
start your machine..turn on the cat pump and run your temp controller up to about 300 and see if the diverter opens up................
let me know............
the stone is located on top of the solenoid.....but if the stone was plugged you would be getting full force exhaust out of the lower HX and not the tail pipe
Chris Muetterties
Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2006
- Messages
- 1,652
Use a Vacuum pump to check for vacuum leaks
You can use this to test the can that is located right next to the flapper and you can also use it to check if the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator is working at the correct pressure.
You can use this to test the can that is located right next to the flapper and you can also use it to check if the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator is working at the correct pressure.
The only thing I know for sure is the diverter is not stuck exhaust does go out the back. I'll test the relay tomorrow to see if that is good and I should be able to test the solenoid as well. Off hand do you guys know how much the relay, solenoid, temp sensors are round figures are good might have to start replacing parts. Thanks for help.
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
I replaced my solenoid and moved it to the inside of the truck to get it out of the weather and keep it clean..It is a very important part of the truck and I do not understand why they stuck it under the truck in the first place......I got it from Aero Tech ..that was the cheapest I could find it at the time....
I replaced my heat temperature sensor and I got it at Aero Tech......
the relays you can get at just about any auto store.....
I don't remember how much the things cost.............
I replaced my heat temperature sensor and I got it at Aero Tech......
the relays you can get at just about any auto store.....
I don't remember how much the things cost.............
dealtimeman
Everyday is Saturday.
i have a few questions
1 does you pump engage?
if yes
2 have you checked your vaccum line while truck is on to ensure you have the vaccum needed to operate your diverter valve.
if yes you have vac
3. if you have a 777 you should be able to check your soleniods without the truck being on. ( at least mine was that way) with the key open, engine off go to your control panel and power it on. then engage your pump you should hear the clutch soleniod engage. then set you temp higher than ambient temp and you should here exhaust diverter solenoid engage. if working correctly you should be able to turn the dial for your heat up and down and hear the solenoid clicking on and dropping out.
if there is no audible engageing of the solenoid then its multimeter time.
please let me know if you have tried this and what you have found out.
1 does you pump engage?
if yes
2 have you checked your vaccum line while truck is on to ensure you have the vaccum needed to operate your diverter valve.
if yes you have vac
3. if you have a 777 you should be able to check your soleniods without the truck being on. ( at least mine was that way) with the key open, engine off go to your control panel and power it on. then engage your pump you should hear the clutch soleniod engage. then set you temp higher than ambient temp and you should here exhaust diverter solenoid engage. if working correctly you should be able to turn the dial for your heat up and down and hear the solenoid clicking on and dropping out.
if there is no audible engageing of the solenoid then its multimeter time.
please let me know if you have tried this and what you have found out.
First of all I would like to thank everybody that is helping you guys are a big help. Now to the truck. The relay is working, the solenoid is clicking when I put 12volts to it from a battery, the vac seems to be working but I'm not sure at what preasure is needed I'm only getting about 6-8 when the machine is on and at 800 rpm it moves up alittle bit. (doesn't seem to be enough pressure?). How much vac is needed.
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
The vacuum assist pump may be going out/or is weak.........the pump may not have enough vacuum to pull the diverter closed all the way.......the vacuum pump is attached to the back of the alternator...better to buy it as one unit instead of separate parts...... $469 for a pump and it has to be ordered but for $514 and you can have a new alternator with a new pump already attached ( don't ask I don't make the rules ).........the vacuum assist pump on the back alternator runs your vacuum booster tank for your breaks and your holding tank under the driver side step.....this little pump only puts out so much.......Normally when this has a problem you will start noticing your breaks are acting up also.....
You can get this at the UD dealer in Colorado........I forget how much this thing is supposed to pull but you can give them a call and find out........
I talked with Ted because it was driving me crazy trying to remember what the vacuum was supposed to pull...
It is supposed to pull around 26 inches of vacuum.....I was thinking 23 but was not real sure.......
You can get this at the UD dealer in Colorado........I forget how much this thing is supposed to pull but you can give them a call and find out........
I talked with Ted because it was driving me crazy trying to remember what the vacuum was supposed to pull...
It is supposed to pull around 26 inches of vacuum.....I was thinking 23 but was not real sure.......
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