I don't much about the difference in wand construction and proformance of different types of wand out there. What could I expect to improve with a different wand. I have a two jet hydromaster wand. the nozzle number is 1101 I think. I have a boxxer 421. with 3/8 solution line. 2" hose. Fill me in, I would like to know what improvement in cleaning I could achive.
Wand information
- Thread starter Bucey
- Start date
ACE
Member
I would guess the jets are 110-02. The boxer should be able to keep up with a little more flow than that. I would take it up to 110-03s. You will deliver more heat because less will be lost in travel time and will flush the carpet better. Take a greenhorn for a test drive.
sweendogg
Member
Do a search for Hi flow performance upgrades.. I believe there is a great bunch of threads down in the gold mine about the subject. The basic idea is not to complicated. But people will argue it all the same. The wand is your basic tool to get solution to the fibers and flushed back out through vacuum recovery.
Many of us get better results by flushing more liquid through the fibers and recovering with an upgraded hose system.
Now we achieve higher levels of flushing by upping our jet size to increase the flow through each jet. We also will use quad jet, five jet and six jet wands because it allows you to bring the jet closer the carpet to minimize heat loss. We can also angle our jets more towards the glide/head to achieve better moisture recovery.
Some of us performance junkies even use check valves to bring the jets even closer to the carpet surface. Combine this with jets size of 02's 03's and more and you have a higher water flow that maintains hotter temperatures passing through the fibers.
Now obviously if you run higher flow you want to be able to recover that water more efficiently as well. So many of use have upgraded our vacuum systems in a couple of ways. The easiest being running cool cuffs to eliminate any restrictinos in your hoses from the machine output to the wand.
Second if we are running multi jetted wands, we try to have 2" wand tubbing to maximize airflow at the head. (or if you are like some wild and crazy guys, you have a custom 2" hydrahoe built!)
The next option is to run 2.5" hose off the machine for 50 to 100 ft and run a short 2" whip line. This usually requires an upgraded coupler off the machine. Some people will utilize the factory ports and run dual 50' sections of 2" to a Y coupler using 2" from there. There is debate as to any performance enhancements over the other. One saves you a little money. The other is more convenient.
And finally if you have a very well built waste tank, you can explore upgrading to a kunkle or bayco valve. its a precision valve that replaces the spring air release on the waste tank. They don't leak like many spring valves can and only open up at its preset limit.
I think that covers it but there is tons of debate and details that need to read from earlier posts! :mrgreen:
Many of us get better results by flushing more liquid through the fibers and recovering with an upgraded hose system.
Now we achieve higher levels of flushing by upping our jet size to increase the flow through each jet. We also will use quad jet, five jet and six jet wands because it allows you to bring the jet closer the carpet to minimize heat loss. We can also angle our jets more towards the glide/head to achieve better moisture recovery.
Some of us performance junkies even use check valves to bring the jets even closer to the carpet surface. Combine this with jets size of 02's 03's and more and you have a higher water flow that maintains hotter temperatures passing through the fibers.
Now obviously if you run higher flow you want to be able to recover that water more efficiently as well. So many of use have upgraded our vacuum systems in a couple of ways. The easiest being running cool cuffs to eliminate any restrictinos in your hoses from the machine output to the wand.
Second if we are running multi jetted wands, we try to have 2" wand tubbing to maximize airflow at the head. (or if you are like some wild and crazy guys, you have a custom 2" hydrahoe built!)
The next option is to run 2.5" hose off the machine for 50 to 100 ft and run a short 2" whip line. This usually requires an upgraded coupler off the machine. Some people will utilize the factory ports and run dual 50' sections of 2" to a Y coupler using 2" from there. There is debate as to any performance enhancements over the other. One saves you a little money. The other is more convenient.
And finally if you have a very well built waste tank, you can explore upgrading to a kunkle or bayco valve. its a precision valve that replaces the spring air release on the waste tank. They don't leak like many spring valves can and only open up at its preset limit.
I think that covers it but there is tons of debate and details that need to read from earlier posts! :mrgreen:
