What kind and weight of oil do you use in your blower?

[Bob Foster]

Lots of choice so what's yours?

 

[Leslie Judson Jones]

OIL

BOB

If you have a old blower like 10 years old you can use 30-ND motor oil.
If it's a newer blower use this oil in the photo.

THANKS

LES

 

[Mikey P]

Aeon for me too.

 

[Dolly Llama]

80wt gear oil is all I've ever used

The reTIRDED Powermatic had over 12,000 hours on the original blower


..L.T.A.

 

[Jimbo]

Aeon for me...changed at the 100 hr oil changes.

 

[TimP]

I'm told I'm supposed to put 40 w nd in my tuthill.

 

[Larry Cobb]

TimP;

We use Aeon synthetic in all of our TM's. It's the best choice

If you need to use a conventional oil it should be 50W on the engine oil scale, to have the viscosity needed for the heat.

Larry Cobb

 

[A. wilson]

Jim, isn't every 100 hours overkill for a blower? Most blowers Ive seen recommend around 300-500 hours. I change my pump and blower oils every 300 a well as spark plugs, engine oil/filter every 50. On my roots I grease the Zerk's every 25 hours.

 

[charles]

30 wt non-detergent

 

[KBRENNY]

I found a Mobil 1 synthetic oil that exceeds the Aeon PD spec and has better performance under high heat applications. I have compared the spec sheets on each product. The part number is SHC 630, it is carried by Grainger (item 6y778) locally and cost less than $15 a quart. I have a Sutorbilt 4MP with well over 5000 hours on it now and it has never had to have any repairs. That's running at 3250 rpm and with my vac relief set at 17" HG. I change it every 250 to 300 hours. I also grease it once every week regardless of hours. The only reason I found it was the local Sutorbilt rep told me he recommended it over the Aeon PD, especially here in Texas and being in the carpet cleaning industry meaning it was inside a van. Both meant higher temperatures and he recommended it for that reason.

 

[Ron Werner]

Mineralube 30 Hydralic oil
changed every 200hrs. I used to change it every 100 and then I heard, as someone mentioned, that it was overkill,
Use the same in my General Pump, change them both at the same time.

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

Aeon PD is the best choice for Sutorbilt (Gardner Denver), but actually using the Aeon PD on other blower makes, may invalidate your warranty.

This is because the manufacturers specify slightly different straight viscosity grades if you choose a synthetic. For me, it makes no strong logical engineering sense, but I suppose it works to sell the oils provided by the different manufacturers.

Tuthill markets a product called Pneulube Synthetic oil, which they claim is compatible (ISO 100 viscosity) in their blowers, and it is said that Aeon PD, being a slightly lower viscosity is verboten. The Pneulube is also viscosity compatible with Roots.

While it probably doesn't matter a tinkers damn that the two lubricants vary by 10 ISO points, it still is a good idea to maintain the units according to manufacturer specifications while still under warranty.

Some may point out the illegality of a manufacturer specifying or prohibiting a particular oil brand in their units, bit this is not the case here. The manufacturers specify a viscosity grade, and GD Aeon PD and Tuthill Pneulube are indeed different viscosity grades.

If you choose a conventional oil, ambient temperature is taken into consideration. Since the ambient temp is usually above 32 degress F, then an ISO 220 to ISO 320 viscosity (SAE 50 or SAE 90 Gear Oil) should be used.

 

[Larry Cobb]

I agree with Shawn on his response. :wink:

30W & 40W is way to thin @ 100° C where the blower operates.

The manufacturers do check for warranty status.

Larry

 

[Johnny]

I phoned Roots a few months ago regarding the best oil to use and was referred to a California distributor. He seemed very knowledgeable and interested in helping. Wish I could remember his name and phone number.

He said it was very important to use the specified oil because too thick would damage the impellers that sling the oil around the case. Also told me if I was switching brands to completely drain the case because some oils don't mix. Do not use automotive oil!

 

[Lee Stockwell]

The only problem with "automotive" oil would be the detergent additives for combustion engines. Slight foaming possibility.

As noted above any non detergent oil above 30-40 weight will work for years.

Synthetic will be better avoiding heat breakdown. The mfg's specialty oils are only better if warranty is your issue.

 

[FredC]

Throwback Sunday?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Lockhart called with a question.

Seemed appropriate to recall this.

 

[Mikey P]

What was the question?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

What kind of oil for a blower.

The fact is a blower mfg (like a truck mfg) can NOT require a brand of oil, only its performance specs. Usually given as an ISO value. ISO-100, 150, and 220 are equivalent to SAE 30wt, 40wt, and 50wt respectively.

However ANY oil is better than NO oil.

 

[Blue Monarch]

I followed meat's advice and use 80 weight gear oil.

 

[Jack Zipper Zerkie]

Wesson oil smells great and works great for a happy blower and the heat is great hot dogs at lunch time. jz.

 

[dealtimeman]

Thanks lee, but I chickend out on using the automotive oil and just had the wife bring me two quarts of aeon pd xd I had at the house, to the shop and that.

I really wanted to use a synthetic ISO 220 oil but couldn't find an equivalent at the parts store.

Will keep looking for a more readily available ISO 220 that can be found at a place like autozone or oriels.


In the mean time will pick up a few quarts from Cobbs tommorow.

 

[bob vawter]

30 wt ND.......never blew up a blower in 40 years