Why does my machine get so hot

[daniel@procarpet]

Can someone please explain this to me?

When I run the machine on high pressure mode which the water does not run through the heat exchangers cleaning tile etc and the heat selector set to warm not hot oh and the machine on medium, the water gets so damn hot at the machine. The temp gauge is pegged at 250 and who knows how hot the water really is. So I lower the pressure and switch the machine back to low pressure. Then I hook an open hose to a low pressure outlet and bleed the water off. Water comes out at first and then it is just a blast of pure vapor steam for about 10 seconds until water starts flowing again. Also when I bleed the water off I switch the valve back over to hot.

Another scenario is cleaning a staircase. I almost always turn the machine down to low and the heat back to medium while working on stairs. If I am upstairs cleaning on medium, I will take the time to go out and reset the machine. After cleaning for 10 minutes on low with the heat valve to medium heat I can move the heat valve back over to hot and then bleed the water off. Again the same thing pure vapor steam blows out so the water is hot as hell.


If the machine is set to medium heat, why does the machine contain such high temperatures?

 

[floorguy]

sounds like maybe a blockage....

or your 3 way is messed up

or if your not allowing it to flow through the cycle, that could be one reason...because while it should heat, it is also setup to help cool or regulate things....

ohh maybe the pop off valve in the water box isnt working

 

[Larry Cobb]

When I run the machine on high pressure mode which the water does not run through the heat exchangers cleaning tile etc and the heat selector set to warm not hot oh and the machine on medium, the water gets so damn hot at the machine. The temp gauge is pegged at 250 and who knows how hot the water really is. So I lower the pressure and switch the machine back to low pressure. Then I hook an open hose to a low pressure outlet and bleed the water off. Water comes out at first and then it is just a blast of pure vapor steam for about 10 seconds until water starts flowing again. Also when I bleed the water off I switch the valve back over to hot.

Another scenario is cleaning a staircase. I almost always turn the machine down to low and the heat back to medium while working on stairs. If I am upstairs cleaning on medium, I will take the time to go out and reset the machine. After cleaning for 10 minutes on low with the heat valve to medium heat I can move the heat valve back over to hot and then bleed the water off. Again the same thing pure vapor steam blows out so the water is hot as hell.

If the machine is set to medium heat, why does the machine contain such high temperatures?

Water in the heat exchanger just gets hotter with no flow thru the HX.

Larry

 

[davendana]

+1 Larry....my Everest does the same thing

 

[rwcarpet]

Wow....sounds just like a certain Genesis 59 I own. And I thought I was all alone in overheating TM's. The Genesis runs through the HX even in HP mode (1500-2000 psi) but the heat doesn't keep up at that high flow. Mine seem's to overheat when flood water extracting, after about an hour of running in the Summer. Gotta hook up water to keep it cool, and to run the APO>

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Yea this is kind of confusing.

Apparently there is nothing wrong with the machine. Everything seems fine when I am actually cleaning with it. Today I did a large home with the RX. I looked out the window after running the RX for about 20 min on medium at 400 psi and the temp was 190. I stopped for maybe 30 seconds, looked out the window again, and the temp was 240. The heat climbs super fast. I guess that is normal on a 90-95 degree day.

I did the stairs last on low with the heat selected to hot. Using a prochem stair tool on low the heat was 210 atm.

The heat bypass valve directs hot exhaust through the heat exchangers. I always thought it regulated how much water went through them. I was wrong on that.

Here is my concern. If the valve is moved to the warm position, not as much hot exhaust should go through the hx'ers. If I clean on low with the valve to warm, I will get a temp reading of 180 which is right. After running on this setting for 5-10 min I can turn the valve over to hot and the temp will jump up to 240-250 in less than 10 seconds. There is some serious hot water running through the machine but the temp reading does not reflect this. Then I can bleed the water off and of course it looks like a blast of steam for a few seconds till it cools enough to turn back to water.

It's weird but I guess everything is okay. All I know is if it does overheat, the machine will shut down and that has not happened. My supplier told me the only thing that can block is the temp bypass orifice and the filter. Both of those are clean.

A few weeks back I was complaining about not enough heat. :roll:

 

[rwcarpet]

Yea this is kind of confusing.

Apparently there is nothing wrong with the machine. Everything seems fine when I am actually cleaning with it. Today I did a large home with the RX. I looked out the window after running the RX for about 20 min on medium at 400 psi and the temp was 190. I stopped for maybe 30 seconds, looked out the window again, and the temp was 240. The heat climbs super fast. I guess that is normal on a 90-95 degree day.

I did the stairs last on low with the heat selected to hot. Using a prochem stair tool on low the heat was 210 atm.

The heat bypass valve directs hot exhaust through the heat exchangers. I always thought it regulated how much water went through them. I was wrong on that.

Here is my concern. If the valve is moved to the warm position, not as much hot exhaust should go through the hx'ers. If I clean on low with the valve to warm, I will get a temp reading of 180 which is right. After running on this setting for 5-10 min I can turn the valve over to hot and the temp will jump up to 240-250 in less than 10 seconds. There is some serious hot water running through the machine but the temp reading does not reflect this. Then I can bleed the water off and of course it looks like a blast of steam for a few seconds till it cools enough to turn back to water.

It's weird but I guess everything is okay. All I know is if it does overheat, the machine will shut down and that has not happened. My supplier told me the only thing that can block is the temp bypass orifice and the filter. Both of those are clean.

A few weeks back I was complaining about not enough heat. :roll:

I would say that the diverter isn't responding correctly to the setting you select. It probably isn't closing completely when no heat is needed. Does you PC have an overheat dump solenoid? My 405 would dump solution if it went into overheat.

My Genesis diverter does that.....when it wants to. Most times it regulates the heat, but decides on it's own when to divert, sometimes. Frustrating, but there are no Powerclean mechanics that want to own up to their design, I guess. It would help if Jim Nape would read these boards once in a while and throw us a lifeline! He's the brains behind the Genesis diverter system.

 

[Ross Buettner]

The regulator allows cool water to come into the system and purges hot water into the waste tank.

If it's sticky, got residue in it (or hasn't been descaled) it'll bind up, and not allow things to cool quickly as they should. If it gets really bad you'll get vapor locking going on (all steam no water) in the water system, which will sense no pressure, and cut out.

I don't know much about the machine with the temp settings. But if something's not right in there, or between that and your regulator... it'll do it all day long.

 

[floorguy]

This the everest right??

If so, then who told you it moved the exhaust???? You were right on the water flow part of it...

now unless they changed it up HUGE, then who ever told you exhaust is an idiot...

ill see if i can find the specs on that one

 

[floorguy]

its the efi one???

http://www.prochem.com/Upload/KCProduct ... estEFI.pdf

here is the water flow diagram

3-13 & 3-14

exhaust....there is NO EXHAUST DIVERTER :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:

5-29

 

[steve frasier]

If it bypasses anything like the hydramaster machines, there is a solenoid on or in the waste tank that isn't allowing the machine to dump excess hot water. The solenoid is bad or just needs to be cleaned out

 

[John Olson]

Maybe you should figure out what machine he has before calling the kettle black Doug. The everest has a barn door that diverts the exhaust. The old EFI did have a 3 way and diverted water but that was years ago. Now it only diverts exhaust and there is no temp shut down or auto divert only the slider. As for the spikes call me and we can talk about a couple of different things

 

[floorguy]

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Maybe you should figure out what machine he has before calling the kettle black Doug. The everest has a barn door that diverts the exhaust. The old EFI did have a 3 way and diverted water but that was years ago. Now it only diverts exhaust and there is no temp shut down or auto divert only the slider. As for the spikes call me and we can talk about a couple of different things

So i went back and did some research....cuz if i am calling something black i wanna KNOW..

I remember reading older posts about his issues...so its the mid older ones its looking like...just like the manual i posted....

John Olson wrote:
Which Everest? Nissan Carb.Nissan EFI or Hyundai. If it is EFI or Hyundai your distributor SHOULD have the computer programs to tell you exactly what the shut down code is. Once you figure out the shutdown code then you can figure out the cause. I would be happy to throw the computer on it but that would be one helluva drive for you.


It is a Nissan engine by the way. It is not giving an error code. Well it did when we ran the fuel lines correctly and relpacing the plugs solved that problem. Prochem told me when a machine shuts down and gives no computer code then the only solution is to just start checking things on a list until the problem is solved. The engine or water is not overheating and the computer senses everything is fine. I was told to check the oil sensor which shuts the machine down if the engine runs out of oil or if the level gets low. The ground wire may be bad and heating up. I have been using this machine since June and it runs all day long on low and has never shut down. Tommorow I am going to run it on low and set the hg at 10 with water flowing through a solution line simulating cleaning. If it runs for 45 minutes then I can just keep cleaning with the machine on low until I get the problem solved. If it shuts down then it is something to do with the fuel lines. It is weird. It is running fine, the engine has the right amount of oil, the water is not getting too hot, and bam it just shuts down. The Everest is great and does everything I could need it too, but I will make sure the next machine I purchase gives me a competitive advantage, is easy to work on, easily dual wands, very dependable, fuel efficient, and has a proven track record. That machine has yet to be built.

 

[Magic One]

Clean out you screens and orriffes.












clean out your screens

 

[floorguy]

bump....

so then, whats the word???

do all that research and we dont hear anything

 

[daniel@procarpet]

The word is there is nothing wrong. That's just how it is engineered.

Did three jobs today. Ran the RX on medium at 400 psi with 7.5 flow and machine was running 190-200 atm.

Next job on medium with wand and machine was pegged on 230 cuz extra dry strokes were applied.

Tile job cleaned on medium with sx at 1000 psi and I was getting 190-200 atm.

My thing is I didn't know why the machine was pegged on 250 degrees running on high pressure mode but that's just how it is.

If there is a problem the machine will shut down and that has not happened.

Also it is warmer so we run with the machine on low heat as well which keeps it 180 atm, but when I slide the lever over to hot the temp will jump up to 230 so there is hot water circulating somewhere.

 

[floorguy]

so you moved the other lever to run it in the 1-3000 psi rating right???

if i remember reading somewhere it doesnt go through the exchanegrs at that high psi...it has a different bypass...hence 2 knobs

 

[daniel@procarpet]

so you moved the other lever to run it in the 1-3000 psi rating right???

if i remember reading somewhere it doesnt go through the exchanegrs at that high psi...it has a different bypass...hence 2 knobs

On most tile jobs we run it on low pressure but can still get around 1200 psi if needed, and the solution is hot.

For brick or certain tile jobs I may want to run higher pressure so I run it on high pressure mode at 1500-2000 psi. The other day I ran it at 2500 psi and yes the extra pressure really works great for stripping wax off brick. The water is cold. Also I run the machine on high pressure with the lever turned to warm. Still the temp reading on the machine is 250 degrees. I will return machine back to low pressure mode and bleed water off. The water that comes out is just a steam vapor for 10 seconds. Basically the water is hot as fook and I couldn't figure out why. There still may be something off but for carpet cleaning everything seems fine.

 

[floorguy]

thats why.....

i dont believe it circulates on HP setting

 

[sam miller]

thats why.....

i dont believe it circulates on HP setting

Ya because the heat exchangers cant handle all that psi! so the water sits You would think the 285 degree shut off sensor would pop the machine if it got to hot.

But thats why on water extraction jobs only you still need a water hook up and allow water to bypass so it doesnt get to hot.

Because if it does get hot enough to shut down from the 285 sensor it can take a while to get it back on.

 

[floorguy]

but the heat sensor wouldnt pop, because its not circulating on the low side...seeing as you throw the 3 way that goes from low pressure to high