Wood Floor Band Wagon

Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
2,805
Location
Montana
Name
Swani
My local hardware store is selling all their rental equipment, so I snatched this up. Someone already purchased the edger, so I'm on the hunt for one of those. 20221219_161556.jpg
 

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
30,495
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
Probably gonna leave corn rows.


more like waves if not used right.
a drum sander is aggressive w/12 and 36 grit and can dig troughs if not careful
(commonly at beginning or end of pulls)

Have you done any refinish floors before, Nick?

if your first go'round...

you'll need a finish sander too.
You can use a rotary and screens (I think a square scrub w/vac port is best)
But it needs finish sanded after drum and edger or that transition point (at drum and edger) will stick out like a sore thumb if applying in stain before poly.
It also levels out any small ridges the drum sander can make no matter how careful you are

Much of that stuff doesn't show til you apply finish


..L.T.A.
 

Kenny Hayes

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
7,883
Location
Yukon, Oklahoma
Name
Kenny Hayes
It’s not that hard. He might wanna find an old rental that has beat up floors where they say the same as carpet, can you just make it look good. That’s what I did. I have all that crap. I too thought I might expand to that, but it’s still mostly residential 😏
 
  • Like
Reactions: Living The Dream
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
2,805
Location
Montana
Name
Swani
more like waves if not used right.
a drum sander is aggressive w/12 and 36 grit and can dig troughs if not careful
(commonly at beginning or end of pulls)

Have you done any refinish floors before, Nick?

if your first go'round...

you'll need a finish sander too.
You can use a rotary and screens (I think a square scrub w/vac port is best)
But it needs finish sanded after drum and edger or that transition point (at drum and edger) will stick out like a sore thumb if applying in stain before poly.
It also levels out any small ridges the drum sander can make no matter how careful you are

Much of that stuff doesn't show til you apply finish


..L.T.A.
My first house that I bought had wood floors and we refinished them. The hardest part was the stopping point along the wall, but I was able to smooth it out with the edger. I used a finisher that was similar looking to a Cimex.
 

Kenny Hayes

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
7,883
Location
Yukon, Oklahoma
Name
Kenny Hayes
An edger makes all the difference. You don’t have to worry about where you stop. But edge at the same time with each grit. The orbital sander is the ticket as well. Got all my stuff off eBay. I do use the orbital a lot as a square scrub on vct. It certainly recouped all my investment with it😅
 
  • Like
Reactions: Living The Dream

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
30,495
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
One sneeze or glance at your phone to see what time it is, and you just bought a bunch of planks...


takes a little more than that to blow thru 1/32" of veneer hardwood.
(unless you're a ham fisted knuckle dragging cave man w/12grit on the roller)

if no finish sanding after drum, it's possible to see shallow dips with gloss finish when you look across the room in good light.

Note, that is speculation on my part, cause I've never NOT finish sanded after drum.
I just know you can't get it perfectly consistent the whole stroke or room.
Not just the machine technique, but all that wood isn't the same hardness either.
a piece of oak, maple or rainforest tree can vary in hardness from tree to the next.
even one part of the same tree to the other.


having said that, I think if I was doing veneered wood refinish (never have) the cimex like triple head sander would be safer methinks


..L.T.A.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mikey P

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom