Wool Berber and a floor machine

[B&BGaryC]

Wall to wall wool berber. Trashed.... originally about $16.00/sq.ft ten years ago when she priced out replacement.

She was referred, and told to ask for my deluxe cleaning package.

My deluxe cleaning package involves pre-agitation with a non-absorbent (adsorbent) bonnet, and then running a soft absorbent bonnet over after the HWE.

My question is, can I do this, or should I substitute the scrubby bonnet for a soft one to make sure I don't fuzz her carpet? Can I even use a soft bonnet? Nobody has ever asked me to use a bonnet on a wool carpet.

She did ask if it was going to fuzz. I told her wool sheds when it cleans, but I would compare the shedding to the side-effects of life saving medicine. I told her that all the dirt in her carpets was wearing them out prematurely.

Thanks for your help. I booked this job out two weeks, should give you guys plenty of time to help me.

 

[B&BGaryC]

I am not going to bonnet it only. I am using a floor machine for agitation and then I am going to truck mount hot water extraction clean it, and then I will use another bonnet with an acid rinse solution on it to sop up any additional moisture and pull the last bit of dirt out of it.

I was planning on using steam-way's cotton and wool pre-spray along with a fab-set rinse.

Or did you already know that?

 

[Jeremy]

Turn the heat down too...

 

[Jack May]

Your biggest concern there Gary would be the lubirication.

Good pre vac, pre spray with a good wool detergent and probably double your rate for synthetic carpets as the wool will suck it up like you've never seen. Only prepare about 150 sqft at a time give or take on your working conditions. Dry atmosphere slightly less or if it's not going to dry real quick, then up to double that.

Don't be too concerned with the heat thing. I run a Genesis 59SS and on trashed jobs crank it right up and often have ti running 240-270 ATM with no problem.

Presumably from you description, she priced replacement 10 years ago so we're dealing with a carpet that is at least 10 years old.... given that case, and the fact that it is trashed, I don't think you need to be concerned with fuzzing. Any loose fibres would have come out long ago.

I often pre agitate with a Cimex and on trashed one even use a Fibre Max pad. Normally only Fibre PLUS but you can go slightly stonger if you dare.

I don't know how severe the bonnet you're using is, but do a test area and see what happens. OR start with the softer one and see if it produces the results you want, if so, well and good. If not, then trial the harsher one.

Just keep it WELL lubed and you won't have issues.

Extract with an acid rinse (or topical spray but I don't like that as the chance of damage from overspray is higher) then by all means a light rub over/dry off but remember you don't have any lube now so take it easy and pull out if it doesn't go right.

You may be just as well doing 2 dry strokes with a glided wand for each wet pass and maybe an air mover for 15 minutes etc.

John

 

[Jack May]

Oh yeah, one other thing about your pre spray, KEEP IT EVEN!!!

Even more important on wool than synthetics as it WILL give you a blotchy/patchy finish otherwise. Flush well and it should respond well.

John

 

[GRHeacock]

As an old geezer, who cleaned everything, including all wools with a rotary shampooer for MANY years before HWE was even a gleam in Bill Wisdom's eye, I can tell you the BEST way to clean any wool is with roto and a mild shampoo, followed by a relatively cool (under 180 degrees) HWE rinse.

Then, if needed, run a DAMP bonnet over it- you need the dampness for lubrication.

Gary

 

[B&BGaryC]

Turn the heat down too...

Thank you. I would have forgotten that. Maybe.... I always remember for Olefin.


All good info guys. I always lube my bonnets with moisture. Even if I am using it to pick up water, I always run a light mist from the wand over it first. And for the agitation, I liberally spray that with my pre-spray to make sure it glides nice and easy.
I use a glided wand.
I usually use 2 air movers along the edges of the wall, to get the air moving counter clockwise and then set an air-path fan in the middle of the room. Works great and the edges dry just as quick as the middle.

And I believe the carpet is about 20 years old.

 

[Art Kelley]

I would second what Gary said about running a shampooer over the wool. They clean very well that way. You could use either a brush or a bonnet after you prespray your low pH wool appropriate detergent. Rinse with your steamer and you'll have done a better job than anyone in your area.

 

[steve frasier]

I cleaned one the other day with my ez glide op machine and gladiator pads, so the gladiator type pads should be fine

Thanks Randy, this is the second time I have cleaned it. Just love repairman who track in dirt

 

[B&BGaryC]

I cleaned one the other day with my ez glide op machine and gladiator pads, so the gladiator type pads should be fine

Thanks Randy, this is the second time I have cleaned it. Just love repairman who track in dirt

I don't know my pads... How does an Adsorbent (Non-absorbent) green and white pad match up to a gladiator pad?