Year old cotton browning

Goomer

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Customer wants me to attempt to remove some browning on a few snow white cotton cushions that browned out from some hack's cleaning from last year.
It looks like classic browning along the sides due to over wetting.

No cleaning is needed, just need to correct the browning if possible, so I am looking for the least aggressive, "driest" approach.

This is my first attempt at correcting old browning on cotton, so what would be the best approach??
 

Art Kelley

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Yokum mentioned he makes up a foam with Bane's Haitian Cotton cleaner, sponges it on and vacs it off. Sounds like a good method, though I haven't tried it..
 
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Goomer

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Yokum mentioned he makes up a foam with Bane's Haitian Cotton cleaner, sponges it on and vacs it off. Sounds like a good method, though I haven't tried it..

I understand that Haitian cotton shampoo being on the acidic side, and it's recommended application procedure (low moisture foam) is the best product and process to avoid an occurrence of browning when cleaning cotton, but am not yet sold on it being the best product to correct an existing condition, more so than a specific browning treatment............which is also slightly acid............which makes me wonder................if it's the acidity of a solution that is the main factoring in correcting browning, and if it is, if there is nothing else present (weak oxidizer, other???) in most "browning treatments" to aid in the correction of browning other than it being an acid, I might as well go with the shampoo.
 

Dolly Llama

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not a chem gEEk, Frank, nor a correction expUrt, but i believe it's sodium bisulfite you're looking looking for

I'll defer to the smArt folks though if they suggest other...


..L.T.A.
 

Jim Pemberton

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You need to have a clear understanding with your customer regarding this issue:

1. The fabric has been damaged. Browning is a result of a change in the fiber that ultimately weakens it.

2. The discoloration often takes a few, maybe several treatments, to be removed. Is your customer willing to pay you for each trip?

3. Browning treatment processes can further weaken the fabric, and often result in permanent texture change. Do they understand that?

4. Some treatments will overwhiten the fabric. Is your customer willing to accept it becoming "too white"?
 
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Placing cushions in direct sunlight if possible after your browning treatment can be very helpful.

Good post by Jim P. above on covering your butt.
 

Jim Pemberton

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Let us know if you can take the furniture off site. The advice I can give will vary depending on where you'll be doing this.
 

ruff

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Jim will correct if I'm wrong.
Most common browning on cotton can be a result of using the wrong cleaner (say too alkaline) or more likely the seed of the cotton (check if you can see the seed particles.) Could also be related to backing though less likely.
The Haitian cotton (white cotton) cleaners are sodium bisulfite and are on the acidic side (acid boosts reducers.) It is not just the acid that does the correcting. From your description on the location of the browning it sounds like browning from the seeds, as those are the areas that stayed wet longer and most likely were not vacuum dried as thoroughly.

As mentioned above by Jim, there may be issues created by trying to correct existing browning. And "just Correcting" the browning may be a lot more work than cleaning. You may need to treat the whole thing for a more uniform appearance. Does the client want to save money while asking you to correct somebody else problem at a discount?

If you could take it away it will work much better as you can apply it more times at your convenience. Haitian cotton cleaner with sun light exposure works quite well usually. I find the wet (not shampoo) to be quite effective. You may want to use it stronger on browned area and mist the rest of the cushion with somewhat weaker mix to prevent a possible halo.

I would also look at the inside part of the cushion. Is it brown on the inside too?
If not, you may want to try the rug cleaner's trick of spraying the browning and turning brown area down side up. That way the browning will wick to the back side.

Some use 3% peroxide (though oxidizers weaken natural fiber more than reducers and the fabric may already be compromised) though it also depends on what was used by previous cleaner. If he used a bisulfite before it will neutralize the peroxide.
 

Larry Cobb

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Goomer;

It's easy.

Just a spray application with our Dynachem Fiber Brite.

It is a reducing agent,

which makes it safer than an oxidizer correction.

Larry

P.S. Larry C. - It is sod. bisulfite
 

Paul Demers

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Let us know if you can take the furniture off site. The advice I can give will vary depending on where you'll be doing this.

I am sure some photos will help Jim also. Are you sure it's browning and not just water marks, which distilled water might be able to cure?

While you wait for Jim's specific advice, I would read all of his posts concerning browning and water marks on www.jimscleanchat.com

Also read Jim's post titled "It's Not your Problem"
 

Ron K

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Haitian/Raw cotton is cotton that has not been carded and cleaned throughly. The seeds/husks are what are causing the browning and usually that is easily cleaned and or corrected using a Haitian Cotton Cleaner. I like the wet type from Chemspec although it can make you gag, use a respirator. The whole premise I think of this product is that it is formulated to leave some minimal residue which prevents the seeds fromRe-Browning the fabric. Celulostic browning is caused more from PH or improper drying. Goomer you said it was on the sides-that would make me think the cushions were put back before totally dry therefore the "Sides Browned"! Also....Someone stating one year old improperly cleaned cushions don't need to be cleaned again the correct way would make me pause too.

Or I could be totally wrong!
 

Jim Pemberton

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Frank

These are the procedures you can try for in plant processing (with all understandings about time, money, color, and texture changes well understood and in writing).

1. Acid Rinse and Absorbtion: Depending on the severity of the browning, and what kind of residues were left by the previous cleaner, sometimes you can use an acidic rinse in your extractor, then pack the browned areas with an absorbent spotting powder (not an absorbent powder cleaner, to be clear). Let it dry and vauum off the powder. This method prevents any texture distortion and leaves the fabric soft and with its natural color.

2. Application of a reducing agent. Products that contain sodium bisulfite will often remove browning, though a few applications may be required. As Mr Cobb has said, such products are safer than oxidizers. This can also be done by cleaning the fabric with a "Haitian Cotton Cleaning Detergent", but that method is more likely to cause texture changes.

After the fabric dries, put on a dust mask and brush and vacuum the fabric to remove the residues of the reducing agent, as it may leave an odor in the fabric.

3. You can attempt to use an oxidizer, but I don't recommend it. These are the products that tend to overwhiten and weaken cotton fibers, especially ones that are already weakened by the browning itself. If you wish to use such products, contact me.

800-342-2297, extension 107
jimscleanchat@gmail.com
 

Desk Jockey

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I'd make sure it's qualified. You're doing salvage work on a damaged piece and your results will greatly improve the look but to completely remove a water line might be very difficult to impossible.

I can do some pretty amazing stuff here in plant but I've also seen a few pieces come back a year or two later and water rings I thought were long gone came back over time. Under promise and over deliver.
 

Jimmy L

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I have some bridgepoint haitian EXTRACTION cleaner for just those things.
Mist on and vac off.
 

SamIam

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Haitian powder Chemspec or CTI's natural fiber cleaner great for rinse, sodium meta bisulfite aka coffee stain remover misted on placed in Sun to dry.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

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