Calling all Tile Experts/Pool Boys!

[D Luke]

Got a call from a good residential customer today. Owns a health club that is going through a revamp. Tile/concrete in pool area looks terrible and needs to be cleaned up to hopefully "like new" for the re-opening.

Actual pool also needs to be cleaned/pressure washed due to construction soiling.

Would a strong acid cleaner (I currently stock Prochem Restoration Tile & Grout) easily do the trick on the tile & concrete?

I have a turbo hybrid and Cobra Hand tool at my disposal. If I need to reclaim water from pressure washing the pool any thoughts on throwing a water claw hooked up to a TM in a low spot? Any chemical limitations on what I'm assuming is epoxy coating in the pool? Care to point out any of the dozens of other factors I'm missing on a job like this?

I would be able to charge a fair rate but nothing exorbitant. Worth the hassle?
@Mikey P @scottw @Scott W @Jim Pemberton

 

[Mark Saiger]

I bet some of that is permanent damage....

Just did a local YMCA pool this summer...similar situation even using acid, but we even saw the top layer of ceramic gone, and the concrete permantly damaged too from all the solutions in the pool

 

[Mikey P]

You MIGHT be able to get a bit of that efflorescence off and hide some with an enhancer but it will all be back in a week.

Hire Chavez to use some Muriatic Acid and it may last two weeks.


Pass, seriously pass.

 

[Mikey P]

We have a manager of a health club with a shower room that pretty much looks just like that.

He calls every year before the franchise inspectors come out for their annual visit.


and every year we tell him the same thing.

 

[Jim Pemberton]

Pass. When it's that bad, it's rare that you can give them a long lasting cure.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Why would you clean it with an acid? Isn't the ph of the tile already negative from all the chlorine? Unless you're talking about acid treating it after you do the normal alkaline prespray.

The only thing I would say MIGHT look better is the darkened areas from the oils of people's feet. Everything else is damaged from years of chlorine on it

 

[Mikey P]

Rookie alert!

 

[J Scott W]

I agree with those who say this will not clean-up great nor stay clean long term.

If the expectations are realistic (low), this si the process I would use:

1. Clean with alkaline cleaner, Viper Venom Powder would be my choice
2. Clean with an acid, Viper Renew would be good
3. Rinse with plenty of water with a little alkaline detergent added to neutralize the acid.
4. Coat the tile with a color enhancing sealer. This helps hide the wear.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Rookie alert!

Who are you calling a rookie? I was just wanting a more specific description of what his plans were. I know the process on ceramic

 

[Jim Pemberton]

With no reference to Matt's experience level, as I don't know him, this story and the veteran responses remind me of what I was once taught years ago by a crusty old man named Dan Petkovich who spent years in management at a local steel mill. At least I saw him as a crusty old man....I think he was ten years younger than I am now

Dan used to tell me that in learning things, and life, there is a "dumb a$$" curve.

When you start learning a skill, you are a dumb a$$, because you don't know what you are doing. You are slow, careful not to make mistakes, and while you probably take too long at the task, your fear and uncertainty makes you sure to do the right thing, or to just not try it since you know you can't do it.

Then when you learn the techniques, and have some success, you get cocky, and when you get cocky, you make BIG mistakes by going beyond your ability, or you try to do the impossible. At that point, Dan told me, you are a dumb a$$ because you should have known better, but your pride and ego got the best of you.

Finally, after making enough mistakes, you wise up and you know the limitations of what you can do, and see no reason to try heroics that most often will lead to disaster, unhappy customers, endless "redos", and even expensive claims. You just refuse to do work that has little upside, and massive "downside" if it turns out badly.

At that point, Dan said, you are acting like a dumb a$$, but you are really finally a smart guy.

 

[clean image]

Concrete need diamond hone/ refinish tile need a lot of manual crawling to remove hard water then clean

 

[Jimmy L]

I guess I am a wise man indeed

 

[todg]

Call a pool tile company...

 

[Mikey P]

Call a pool tile company...

to do what?

 

[steve_64]

I guess I am a wise man indeed

I'm still a dumb a$$.

 

[todg]

to do what?

In Las Vegas, NV we have folks who specialize in pool tile cleaning. Stick with what you know...Unless you want to learn...Besides that looks like a hell of a lot of work...LOL

 

[D Luke]

Thanks for all of the insight everyone! If I'm hearing you guys right I'm feeling like I should jump right in to this project with both feet, hu?

 

[Jeremy N]

Thanks for all of the insight everyone! If I'm hearing you guys right I'm feeling like I should jump right in to this project with both feet, hu?

You sound exactly like me. Are we brothers?

 

[D Luke]

I will of course be passing unless they really want to pay me to use a TM and spinner on the construction dust as opposed to a mop and bucket themselves.

 

[steve_64]

I will of course be passing unless they really want to pay me to use a TM and spinner on the construction dust as opposed to a mop and bucket themselves.

I use my truck mount on new construction a lot. It's a biotch to mop up drywall mud and dust. Hard to get it to not feel gritty to the touch.

 

[John Olson]

That's an easy Job. Cal Clean. Ask Tony Neville. http://www.superiorcleaningsolutions.com/product-p/aac24.htm

 

[D Luke]

@Tony Neville Do you agree with John? Easy-peasy?

Who makes Cal Clean? I'm assuming it's rtu which makes it really expensive. Definitely willing to give it a shot as long as the customer is willing to pay and they have realistic expectations.

 

[Tony Neville]

I think it's made by advanced. I hate to say no, so I would promise nothing and test an area.
Mop on cal clean with a cheap plastic mop(throw it away when done), let it dwell, scrub with a doodle bug and rinse. See what happens. Warning do not use in/on or near anything metal that you want to keep.
If they are looking at replacing it maybe you can be a hero. Managing the owners expectations is the key.

 

[D Luke]

I think it's made by advanced. I hate to say no, so I would promise nothing and test an area.
Mop on cal clean with a cheap plastic mop(throw it away when done), let it dwell, scrub with a doodle bug and rinse. See what happens. Warning do not use in/on or near anything metal that you want to keep.
If they are looking at replacing it maybe you can be a hero. Managing the owners expectations is the key.

Thanks for the info. It says it's safe for metal so surprised to hear you say otherwise.

 

[Tony Neville]

The first time we used it we applied it with a stainless steal pump up sprayer, by the end of the job it looked like a watering can. We blamed the chemical. It could have been that the sprayer was going to fail anyway but why risk it.

 

[clean image]

All depends how busy you are. And how comfortable you are taking in unfamiliar work.

My spell check on earlier post had mind of its own

Those low spots on tile that pool and dry.
1. You want to remove most mechanically
2. Folllow up with cleaning using acid base and agitation.

If I remember cal clean is an acid. Phosphoric is another good acid for minerals

The hardest part will be the grout lines and mechanically removing most of it without scoring up the grout.

If try to go straight acid- you likely be unsuccessful and eating up all the good grout around it

There is possibility grout is stained - but will 90 percent better

Concrete is different situation

 

[clean image]

I should note also, if you have a media blaster- will work well as well- problem will be containment unless you go dry ice