E-TES Users.......

[rwcarpet]

Do the insurance companies recognize this technology? How much quicker can it dry in comparison to the standard air mover/dehu's? And most of all....will the insurers pay the increase in daily cost to cover this service??

What's better....the 120 v model or the 240 volt?

 

[Hoody]

Bob,

Most insurance companies recognize this technology now that direct heat drying is becoming more popular. When you directly heat the wet material, you will get faster evaporation, because you increase the evaporation potential(difference in vapor pressure between material, and ambient air.) The 120v is okay for small jobs, but I much prefer the 240v.

There have been many times that I have been able to save the insurance companies money with use of the E-TES unit. For instance, drying plaster(we have a lot of it here in Ohio with the older homes) takes A LOT of heat and can be a slow process. With standard drying it could take nearly a week in some situations, or sometimes the plaster will not dry at all given the circumstances. There have been simple jobs that would dry in normally in probably 3 days. I've been able to have them dry in 36 hours, sometimes less.

When I dry I want to do it correctly and fast to turn jobs over quicker. If I'm able to serve more people, and create a great experience they'll be more likely to use me for another service that I provide.

A quick note: While direct heat drying is becoming more popular, there are still a lot of companies out there who do not know how to properly use the technology. The point to having the equipment on a job is to dry quicker, or use in hard to dry situations where standard and conventional drying methods aren't as practical. There is a lot of push and give with adjusters. Just be sure you can justify why you're using it with documentation, and if you're doing it to be cost effective for adjuster be sure to point that out, and show them all of the numbers.

 

[rwcarpet]

Bob,

Most insurance companies recognize this technology now that direct heat drying is becoming more popular. When you directly heat the wet material, you will get faster evaporation, because you increase the evaporation potential(difference in vapor pressure between material, and ambient air.) The 120v is okay for small jobs, but I much prefer the 240v.

There have been many times that I have been able to save the insurance companies money with use of the E-TES unit. For instance, drying plaster(we have a lot of it here in Ohio with the older homes) takes A LOT of heat and can be a slow process. With standard drying it could take nearly a week in some situations, or sometimes the plaster will not dry at all given the circumstances. There have been simple jobs that would dry in normally in probably 3 days. I've been able to have them dry in 36 hours, sometimes less.

When I dry I want to do it correctly and fast to turn jobs over quicker. If I'm able to serve more people, and create a great experience they'll be more likely to use me for another service that I provide.

A quick note: While direct heat drying is becoming more popular, there are still a lot of companies out there who do not know how to properly use the technology. The point to having the equipment on a job is to dry quicker, or use in hard to dry situations where standard and conventional drying methods aren't as practical. There is a lot of push and give with adjusters. Just be sure you can justify why you're using it with documentation, and if you're doing it to be cost effective for adjuster be sure to point that out, and show them all of the numbers.

Thanks, Hoody....there are a lot of plastered homes here in NE Ohio, too.

Just wondering.....how hot does that TES get? Could it be used in bedbug treatments? The heat is what kills them, but not sure of how hot.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Yes Bob heat has become recognized and accepted as a viable drying addition to your drying tool box. We use it for hardwoods, plaster, built-in's, crawl spaces. Any difficult to dry situation.

Its listed in Xactimate, so your only battle is was it needed. I can't remember the rise but don't get the 110, get the 220. I've heard too many that were disappointed in the rise on the 110 for what it cost.

 

[Hoody]

Bob,

Most insurance companies recognize this technology now that direct heat drying is becoming more popular. When you directly heat the wet material, you will get faster evaporation, because you increase the evaporation potential(difference in vapor pressure between material, and ambient air.) The 120v is okay for small jobs, but I much prefer the 240v.

There have been many times that I have been able to save the insurance companies money with use of the E-TES unit. For instance, drying plaster(we have a lot of it here in Ohio with the older homes) takes A LOT of heat and can be a slow process. With standard drying it could take nearly a week in some situations, or sometimes the plaster will not dry at all given the circumstances. There have been simple jobs that would dry in normally in probably 3 days. I've been able to have them dry in 36 hours, sometimes less.

When I dry I want to do it correctly and fast to turn jobs over quicker. If I'm able to serve more people, and create a great experience they'll be more likely to use me for another service that I provide.

A quick note: While direct heat drying is becoming more popular, there are still a lot of companies out there who do not know how to properly use the technology. The point to having the equipment on a job is to dry quicker, or use in hard to dry situations where standard and conventional drying methods aren't as practical. There is a lot of push and give with adjusters. Just be sure you can justify why you're using it with documentation, and if you're doing it to be cost effective for adjuster be sure to point that out, and show them all of the numbers.

Thanks, Hoody....there are a lot of plastered homes here in NE Ohio, too.

Just wondering.....how hot does that TES get? Could it be used in bedbug treatments? The heat is what kills them, but not sure of how hot.

I don't know of the peak operating temp, but I would guess its around the 120-140 range, I've never had one much hotter than around 110-115. As far as using them to deal with bed bugs, I was urge you to be cautious with that. There is a company called Thermapure that claim to have a patented process using heat in mold, restoration, and bed bug removal services. They've been suing many different companies who allegedly infringe on their patent process. They're not discriminative on who they go after, small and large franchises, and even some restoration equipment manufacturers. I believe using them for that scenario COULD work, but as far as advertising it, you'd have to make that decision.

 

[J Scott W]

Plenty of good information above.

I would also suggest the 240 volt model over the 120 volt for most homes. As long as there is a plug in for dryer and/or an electric range.

Drying times average about 1/3 the drying time with convention dehumidifier set-up. The cost for the insurance company to drying and the amount you get paid for equipment is about the same either way. The insurance company saves on the costs of demolition / replacement and many items. They also get the insured back into the home quicker which can save them on ALE and other expenses.

Peak temperature output for most situations is around 140 F. There is a thermal protection that shuts the unit down if it gets above 155 F. (Very unlikely)

The pricing is listed in Xactimate and Blue Book which most insurance providers are familiar with.

BTW - Special deal right now for free monitors (air temp, surface temp, humidity etc.) and software to track this info when you buy an E-TES.

 

[leesenter]

I can't imagine why you are setting the heat that high on an eTes. We set ours around 100 and exhaust it at 97.

 

[Hoody]

I can't imagine why you are setting the heat that high on an eTes. We set ours around 100 and exhaust it at 97.

Only reason I've ever set it above 100 is plaster.

 

[kmdineen]

Tex boxes were designed to provide a 35 degree temperature rise when used with a 1/3 hp air mover into direct containment. Direct containment is blowing hot air under a wall to wall carpet or plastic covering an affected area. So the air going into the Tex box has a lot to do with how hot the air coming out will be.
To achieve 30 hour dry times (in direct containment) the surface temperature of the affected material should be 110-115 degrees. Due to evaporative cooling the air coming out of the Tex box should be 130 degrees to raise the surface temperature to 110-115 degrees. That means air going into the Tex box should be 95 degrees. The IR camera is a great tool to see your hot air is going were you want it, under all areas of carpet and into the walls.
In a class 3 situation or where direct containment is not practical use regional containment were the affected area is contained floor to ceiling. Raise the ambient temperature to 110 degrees giving you a surface temperature of approximately 95 degrees. This will not dry as fast as direct containment.
Of course there are a lot of variables. My experience is with the older E TES not the smart E TES. Also the slower you move air through the Tex box the more heat you will get but the least amount of carpet or plastic you can float or get hot air to. It has been my experience here in New England that one E TES doesn't produce enough energy to vent a structure, so I usually use dehumidifiers in a closed system with E TES.

 

[J Scott W]

I can't imagine why you are setting the heat that high on an eTes. We set ours around 100 and exhaust it at 97.

For room air temperatures around 95 to 100 F, the output from the E-TES into direct containment would be 130 to 140 F. As explained in the post above. Lee, I think you and I are speaking of temperature readings taken at different points.