Engine rpm's up and down on my Everest

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I ran my machine today on medium and high just to see what would happen. Actually one of the first jobs I did with the Everest a couple weeks ago was a water extraction. The machine's rpms kept jumping all over the place. The machine was bogging down to the point it sounded like it was going to shut down and eventually it did. I drained all the water in the tank and cranked it back up, but it would only run for a minute or two and shut down. I thought the float switch in the waste tank was getting stuck. Well today I cleaned a 2 story empty house, and on the last room I turned the machine to medium. The machine did the same thing. The rpm's would rise and fall and the machine would bog down to the point it sounded like it was going to shut down which it never did. The engine sounded like someone on a motorcycle reving up the gas back and forth. Anyone have any idea what is up with my machine?

Thanks
 

sweendogg

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HARPER said:
Dan,

Idle speed is 900 RPM..High speed is 2200 RPM..I would imagine Med speed is 1800/2000 RPM..

Your Hyundia engine is a puts out 68 hp @ 3600 rpm.....w. pump 1357 rpm..Blower 3125 rpm..


I am not trying to tell you how to run your machine."so don't get MAD"

I just don't think you are not doing the machine any FAVORS...At those RPMs..

You say you are concerned about SAFETY issues of HIGH HEAT..?
220 to 230 Temps...aren't any more dangerous than 200 degrees...!!!!

But at those temps you can use a lot LESS chemical....
Plus running the Everest at the PRE-SET FACTORY rpm...Will INCREASE your drying times
& your PRODUCTION...If you ran it on HIGH...with 50 to 100ft of 2.5...You would probably
have the same DRY-TIMES ....Without using Post drying FANS...

You are probably using about the SAME amount of FUEL on the LOW setting...That you
Would use on HIGH.. "Highway miles to In town MIles" :idea: :idea: :idea:
Peak fuel consumption is calabrated by your MACHINE..."Plus ..LESS HRS on the MACHINE
due to INCREASE production times...

Just some suggestions........ :)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=30278&p=333113#p333113
 
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What's your point David? I cleaned 6 rooms today with no problem, but when I turned the rpms up the machine started running crazy. Maybe that is how it is supposed to run. The water damage I did the machine was running on high. Something is off.
 

joe harper

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Dan.

I will try to HELP if I can ??? I am not A FAN of all these ELECTRONIC sensor's... :twisted:

Couple of :?: 's.... Was the Service Soon light Flashing..(yellow light)
How Hot was it Today..where you Live.... :?:
Did the Unit SHUT down..Own-its-own.... :?:
Did You .....Turn-it OFF.... :?:
Was the Engine Dieseling... :?:

I will be Watching this thread .....to try to HELP..."Wasn't trying to JINX Ya.. :( "
 

GeneMiller

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Daniel,

I don't know your machine but if it's run by a computer then I would start with the sensors, air temp, oxygen sensor, ect. They have had problems in some machines with heat affecting the computer board. They have a link that can hook directly to a pc which will help you diagonise the problem. Good luck, please post what ever you find out what the problem is so others will know. I've been reading old threads and it's surprising people never finish the thread.

Gene
 
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The service engine light was not on. The temp was mild about 80 degrees. I shut the machine down. I don't know what you mean by dieseling.
 

joe harper

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I had the SAME problem ...ONCE....

I had some concern with you putting the EVEREST in a smaller VAN.....

The unit has a AIR -TEMP sensor that will shut it down...When the Air TEMP inside
the van gets TOO HOT...Similar to an oxygen SENSOR for the engine...

When it is HOT & HUMID outside ...you can run a air mover on the UNIT while you are
OPERATING in HIGH...."moving fresh AIR in the van "SHOULD" stop the PROBLEM...

My problem occured in a BOX TRUCK...The back doors were closed...SENSOR shut-it down...
SCARED the Sh@t out of me ...!!!!!...only had 15 hrs on unit..1st Time we had CRANKED
the pressure up to 3000 PSI....I thought I BLEW IT -UP... :oops:
 
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The machine is liquid cooled so I don't know why the air temp would affect it. I did have the back doors closed because it was raining slightly. The side doors were open though and the temp outside was pleasant. I can see that happening to an air cooled machine but not a liquid cooled unit. We will see what my supplier has to say in the morning. Their excuse for the machine cutting down before was a faulty float switch in the waste tank. I think a sensor is malfunctioning. Now that I think about it, in both instances the waste tank water level was close to the switch. Why make a 100 gallon tank and have the cutoff switch at 60 gallons? The first instance the machine shut down due to being full. After draining the water and cranking back up, the switch may have been jumping up and down from getting stuck and caused the machine to shut down after running for just a couple minutes.
 

joe harper

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OK Dan....'BRING YOU WALLET" it is a SENSORED FLOAT SWITCH......they will sell
you a new one....$289.00 installed.. :twisted:

If YOU think it is a FLOAT SWITCH..???...Then JUST un-plug it & run the unit...It takes
2 min. to do...Run the UNIT ....If it still runs BAD....NOT the float switch.... :idea: :idea:


How many HRS on this unit :?: :?: :?:
Is it still under warranty :?: :?: :?:


There is agood reason for this INFO.....
 
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It better be under warranty from my supplier. I bought it without seeing it run. They told me everything was in tip top shape. We will see. I already replaced the chemical metering valve, but the machine did sit for about a year. Under 60 hours on machine. Good idea about unplugging the float switch.
 

joe harper

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Dan,

This is a CONTROVERSIAL subject...BUT i have been around engines most of my Life...

You are PAST a critical time with this motor...BUT..You SHOULD have "RUN THE SHIT"..
out of that engine,,,DURING the BREAK-IN PROCESS..... :!: :!: :!:

The cylinder heads,rings,& pistons...ect...Need to be tempered.....for long life of the engine.


Since it is still under WARRANTY...."If it was mine.....I would drain the oil...re-fill with a
quality brake-in oil.....Set up the unit...&...RUN THE PISS OUT OF HER..."ON HIGH" for
2 HRS...under a full LOAD...set up your wand at 500 psi.....Put a Pull tie on the trigger
"keyed"...50 ft of Vac hose .....blocked off with a peice cardboard at 12 HG..and LET-HER-RIPP.....


Then change the oil & filter....&....put HER to work.."AT THE PROPER SETTINGS....

The unit is probably CARBONED-UP... :wink: "From running o the LOW setting"


If you have a PROBLEM....Let them fix it under WARRANTY.................






ps I Will BET that Les Judson has some :idea: 's They run the piss of those motorcycle engines... 8)
 

joe harper

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George makes a good piont about the fuel filter.....

Dan, check & see if it is the ORIGINAL Filter....It should have been CHECKED or REPLACED
at your REQUIRE 50 HR...service...

After re-reading your PRIOR POST....You said the unit sat for 1 YEAR.....

It was probably laquered-up....A peice of trash could have broken loose when you
ran it on HIGH..."increased fuel flow"....The erratic up & down rpms on the motor...&..
the stalling..would be explained..."fuel starvation"...

BTW the float switch's on the Prochem's are a POS...&...NOT a warranty Part.. :twisted:
Replaced mine with ...I think...500 hrs on my EVEREST....
 
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Another guy with an Everest was having the same problem I am having with the engine reving up and down and eventiually shutting down. Prochem has you go through a series of problem solving solutions. He would bring the machine in and have it checked out and it would run fine for hours with no problem. He would then take it on a job and it would start messing up. Then it would run fine for a few days and then the problem would repeat. Eventually they determined the switch to the low, medium, and high was defective. Replacing the switch solved his problem.

Before I could order a 60 dollar switch my supplier reccommended that I reset the computer on the machine. To do this you have to run the machine in high with the vacuum under a load, but not where the relief valve will open for 15 minutes. Then you unhook any hoses and turn it straight to idle and let it run for 15 more minutes. While doing this we had the machine on high with the bypass valve open all the way and the temp was pegged on 200. As soon as I moved the bypass valve to the half-way position the temp would jump over 250 almost instantly. The temperature bypass orifice was clogged and the screen filter was a little dirty. Basically the machine was running too hot. Actually I did a job the other day (5 rooms and a hall) and the mahcine was out of water after 3 rooms. The orifice was clogged and not letting water bypass and this was causing the machine to get too hot. This in turn was causing the water box valve to bypass too much water to the tank. Since I run the machine in low on most jobs the temp doesn't get too hot, but as soon as I switched the machine to medium the temperature would climb and the machine would start to shut down but keying the wand was just enough to prevent it from shutting down. Now the machine doesn't overheat. If this doesn't fix the problem then the throttle switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
 
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Yep that fixed the problem. One small grain of sand or dirt was causing the overheating. The hole in the orifice is the size of a pinhole and easy to clog.
 
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I fixed a defective "Idle, Low, Medium, High" switch with a can of WD-40 a couple of years ago. Still works like a champ!

:)
 

joe harper

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Dan,

The earlier Everest...Had some radiator problems......(China)

Have you CHECKED the fluid level in the OVER-FLOW container...(check it COLD)
My unit ..when NEW ....Would over flow about 6 oz. every night into the SS pan....
We were replacing fluid every day....to the COLD level line....and topping off radiator..

We now run the over flow container a little below the COLD line...NO more leaking....

Sounds to me ...Like you still have a overheating PROBLEM.....
Dis-connect your LOW TEMP solenoid it is 230 degrees.....and run the unit.....
If it is defective...It will cause the same symptons with the RPMs...
(You still have a High Temp Sensor 285 degrees..To PROTECT the UNIT)...

1. Check Your RADIATOR CAP....Will cause over heating..
2. Fuel pump may be OVERHEATING....this will cause fuel STARVATION..when HOT..
3. BURP the HELI COIL....You may have AIR in the cooling system.....
4. Check your ENGINE thermostat.....(may be defective..it is over a year OLD)...
5. Check that all wiring is TIGHT on ignition switch......Loose ground or hot wire
can SHORT out under different heat & vibrations...( When on med. or high ) :idea:



It is RARE that JUST 1 SPEED.... will go out in an electronic SPEED SWITCH !!!


Beware of the PARTS CHANGERS...It can get VERY EXPENSIVE....





REMEMBER...This unit has sit for a YEAR....NOT GOOD FOR THE ELECTRONICS... :wink:
 

Greenie

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Harper...you are making my head hurt. next you are gonna say .... get out your laptop.

Geez louise....give me a TNT.
 
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Harper I will keep you posted when I put the switch on Friday. I can still use the machine on low, medium, or high. It just runs funny sometimes on medium. When I took it to my suppliers the other day, we ran the machine for 4 hours with no problem, and then I did a job later and the machine's rpms started going up and down in medium. Like I said earlier another cleaner with an Everest had the exact same problem and replacing the switch took care of it. By the way the guy I bought the machine from spilled a gallon of Viper Venom down the front of the machine the first week he had it. He cleaned it up right away, but I am sure some of the chemical got into the switch. I am fixing to go and clean a restaurant with the machine right now. I am even going to bust out the 175 tonight to scrub a couple really bad places with some purple elixir and power burst.
 

GeneMiller

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Dan,

If your machine is like mine you can take the speed selector switch completely out of the equation. The speed selector switch just determines which wire is going to ground. You can follow the wires to the plug and disconnect it. Your book will tell you which wire is which speed. Take that wire and run it to ground and it will give you that speed. If you still have the problem then it is not the switch. Again this will work if the computer uses ground for speed control. If it is a closed loop system when it gets to temperature and the loop closes if a sensor is bad it will run erratic. You can check each sensor directly with an ohms meter.

Don't forget to recheck the by-pass for more debris clogging the orifice.
Good luck
Gene
 
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Gene and Harper. What both of you are saying makes perfect sense. I need to get this figured out fast. I went to my suppliers early this morning and they replaced the speed selector switch. The old switch had a lot of grime and gunk in it where the previous owner spilled Viper Venom on it. Unfortunatley I don't think the switch was bad. This weekend I cleaned a fairly large restaurant and the machine ran steady for 3 hours with no problems. Today I cleaned 5 rooms and hall and them went to a tile job. I had to leave the tile job about halfway through to get my other truck because the maching started running eratic. The machine bogs down to the point that it sounds as if it has died and then it revs back up. My brother knows very little about carpet cleaning and helped me do a job when I first got the machine and it strarted running eratic. He said it sounds like its not getting fuel. It's crazy. My supplier told me after installing the switch that I may have to reset the computer which I did not do before cleaning my jobs for the day. After I got home, I reset the computer and have not used the machine yet. I am afraid to take it out this weekend.

If the machine was overheating, it would have overheated when I used it on the restaurant. After using all the water in my truck, I had to get water from the restaurant which was hot water about 140 degrees. The machine was pegged on 230 and did not run eratic once. Also I checked the orifice today and it was clean.

The service engine light is not coming on. This tells me nothing is wrong with the engine.

I am going to call Prochem first thing Monday morning.
 

joe harper

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It sounds like a FUEL problem..... :!:

You could be getting a VAPOR LOCK... :?:

CRACK the van's fuel cap....This will relieve any built-up pressure in the tank...

The NEXT TIME it happens...Pull the fuel line off the EVEREST....Turn the KEY ..ON...
and see if you have good fuel pressure.... :wink:
 
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