Grout cleaning with acid

[Wing It]

I have not used acidic grout cleaners often, but when I have, the results are not impressive. Do any of you see the need for using an acidic cleaner on grout that is still blotchy after an alkaline cleaner, grout scrub and spinner? Also, do you feel the need to rinse afterwards with an alkaline so as not to leave the grout in an acidic state?

 

[J Scott W]

Acids have proved helpful if the soil is hard water deposits, urine, soap scum and such. Many other types of soil simply don't respond well to removal with acid. In those cases, the acid helps a little by removing a thin amount of the grout (assuming the acid gets to the grout with no layer of grease or other impediments). But I have not found that to be a night day impressive difference, just a little extra help.

As far as rinsing, you don't want to leave an acid residue behind. Cleaning with a spinner tool, there is probably enough volume of water to dilute and rinse the acid. If cleaning with a mop and bucket, the alkaline rinse to neutralize is probably needed.

 

[Larry Cobb]

John; It sounds like either the grout has not been cleaned well

or the acid cleaner is not strong enough.

I see more uniform grout appearance after the acid treatment.

Stainless brushes also help.


http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=5460

 

[Tony Wilson]

I see more uniform results using acid generally. If it doesn't fizz it's probably not getting to the grout. Best to do an alkaline cleaning with brush then flush. Then follow up with acid to even it out if it's blotchy. Flush again. I use a spinner most cases. From 800 to 1000 psi.

 

[Mikey P]

We use it sparingly on floors
Most times on dark areas it didn't help, the staying in just too deep. Us a metal toothbrush to really give it a good kick in the pants


Showers are another story. Killer.

Try Cobb's "Grout Cleaner" an acid with an added degreaser.

 

[dealtimeman]

Cobbs acid is the strongest out on streets.

 

[Goomer]

I haven't done much grout, but am starting to push it a little more lately.

The more I do, which is mainly residential bathrooms and kitchens, the more I realize how important it is to closely inspect the grout and pre-qualify the situation throughly with the customer and set their expectations as needed.

The customer has to understand that grout is POROUS and although completely removing surface soil is possible, anything that has penetrated below the surface may remain and present as discolorations, and may be out of reach of even acids.

Repeated use of consumer acid cleaners, especially right around the toilet bowl in bathrooms tend to leave that area appearing the cleanest, when in reality it is more due the fact that repeated exposure to acids has eaten the grout lower than the surrounding grout, and has exposed fresh grout.

Can't let the customer assume that this "cleaner" area if present around the bowl is an indicator of the potential level of improvement of the surrounding areas.

I find most customers ignorant to the characteristics and vulnerability of porous grout and often way out of line with their expectations, and need to be set straight on the facts before proceeding.

Gotta cover your arse with grout cleaning.

Hand and stick brushes and little wire brushes do come in awfully handy.

 

[Larry Cobb]

Good points Frank !

Also inspect for any loose grout,

which might come out with aggressive cleaning.

 

[icleancarpetz]

Good points Frank !

Also inspect for any loose grout,

which might come out with aggressive cleaning.

Gotta buddy that swears not to use TM blasting of dirty grout for fear of unseen cracked grout that can potentially become a nightmare.

 

[Nate The Great]

Gotta buddy that swears not to use TM blasting of dirty grout for fear of unseen cracked grout that can potentially become a nightmare.

He doesn't happen to have been a former coast guard worker?

 

[GeneMiller]

I clean almost as much tile and grout now as carpet. Much easier in my opinion and more predictable. Carry some dry sanded and Unsanded grout to replace any loose you might pull. Easy to charge extra for it. Most people have white or antique white. I also carry 4 colors of grout stain to cover stains you can't remove. You can easily blend it in. Recently tried facelift or overhaul, which ever is the alkaline. Cleaned well but is very hot. Keep it off your hands. As far as loose tiles or loose grout I've only had to fix it a few times. I clean at 1500 psi and have 0503 jets which really hit it hard.

 

[Larry Cobb]

I like your choice of #0503 jets for the Turbo Hybrid.

We use those also for better impact on Tile & Grout cleaning . . .

http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68&products_id=4329

 

[icleancarpetz]

He doesn't happen to have been a former coast guard worker?

No guard.

 

[Larry Cobb]

We also are bringing in the new 8" Stainless Steel Swivel grout brushes:


http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=5460

 

[Tom Forsythe]

Most of the acids used on tile and grout are a pH of 1 to a pH of 2. Surfactants and dwell time allows the acids to penetrates. Flushing with water even with a CX15 or other equivalent tool will not neutralize the acids. If they remain they will continue to react further weakening the cementious grout. The acid used in Viper Renew will not evaporate so it stays active. This acid needs to be neutralized with an alkaline as it has always been stated on the label. Allow the alkaline time for penetration and it can be rinsed quickly. I would suggest that a peroxide based cleaner like our Peroxibright will generally even out white grout so that an aggressive acid is not needed except in restoration jobs. Peroxide is acidic, yet not as strong as most acids (still can etch marble) but will self neutralize as it dries. I would think that it is acidic enough for most residential jobs.

 

[Patrick101]

Great info from Tom. A few years ago one of my Technicians insisted on using stripper to clean ceramic tile and grout. I gave in on one restroom so I could prove him wrong. It actually worked really well. I actually feel it worked better than commercial grout cleaners. We followed up with an acid etch of the grout and the few remaining spots we hit with a grout saw. I find that for those one or two spots that are just not coming clean a grout saw used with care works great. I have used many commercial products to clean grout and all of them have merit. I work exclusively in commercial space. The first thing I normally do is go to the janitors closet to find out what they use to clean the floors. If the product is Alkaline I start with acid if it is neutral I start with the Alkaline product.

 

[Jimmy L]

I have one of those little stainless steel brushes and wonder why they are $30? Is there somewhere else one could buy one without feeling ripped off? I paid $25 at interlink and thought that was way too much.

 

[Larry Cobb]

Jimmy;

The original SS brushes were 5".

The new ones are 8" long, which does save some time when scrubbing.

Professionals use the best tool for the job.

 

[Old Coastie]

He doesn't happen to have been a former coast guard worker?

HAHAHAHA!

If spraying Viper Peroxibrite or Viper Renew doesn't clean it, vapor steam will. I use it in homes where the tile is installed on framed floors to avoid battering the grout.
Slab on grade is almost bulletproof.
If I had a truck mount I'd use a spinner and feel like a real pro instead of a BDPH.

 

[hogjowl]

If you had a TM, you wouldn't need to clean ovens to make a living.

 

[Old Coastie]

If I could afford a TM I wouldn't need to use it, you rutabega.

 

[Jimmy L]

Such a horrible man he is!

 

[Old Coastie]

Hey now, at least he is an Alabamian, not some cornporn from the back end of flattened frozen Yankeestan.