Preheating Vortex Water

[1900 North]

I own a 2007 HAT Vortex. It preheats the water, which is lovely for three seasons of the year, but in the 100 degree weather of Summer, I'd prefer not to preheat the water in the fresh water tank. Is there a valve to close to shut down the preheating? Is it even possible to not preheat the water?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

I've never seen your machine but I'm sure it would only involve adding a valve to one hose.

 

[FredC]

Looks like there is a valve right before E1 exchanger that shuts off flow from the radiator. Assuming its just a loop AND it isn't necessary to provide extra engine cooling while not moving you should be able to just close it.

edit:
page 49
http://www.barker-hammer.com/items/Manuals/BlueLine/VORTEX-7000-Manual-Truckmount.pdf

 

[hogjowl]

Do you have to sit in the box while traveling?

 

[Mikey P]

Why not just turn your Xentherm thermostat down?

 

[Nate The Great]

Between @FredC and @dgardner those 2 are super helpful when it comes to technical stuff!

 

[Papa John]

Between @FredC and @dgardner those 2 are super helpful when it comes to technical stuff!

Usually true --
But Mikey simplified the solution.

 

[dealtimeman]

Looks like there is a valve right before E1 exchanger that shuts off flow from the radiator. Assuming its just a loop AND it isn't necessary to provide extra engine cooling while not moving you should be able to just close it.

edit:
page 49
http://www.barker-hammer.com/items/Manuals/BlueLine/VORTEX-7000-Manual-Truckmount.pdf

No dont do this as you will rupture seals in Viking pump. And that line runs oil not glycol.

You would have to run 2 valves inline with a bridge to redirect the water back to return line. Like an h line.

 

[dealtimeman]

Just turn your oil temp down and if you want to "cool" your tank fill it wit water during the day.

 

[FredC]

No dont do this as you will rupture seals in Viking pump. And that line runs oil not glycol.

You would have to run 2 valves inline with a bridge to redirect the water back to return line. Like an h line.

Always listen to Lockhart on vortex issues.


The following is just for my knowledge. @dealtimeman #11 here is flowing oil?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Not with 3/4" heater hose...

 

[dealtimeman]

That line doesn't run oil but it does not have a return line that I know of.

More for filling and burping glycol out of system

That valance easily looks like the valve on the e2 and can easily be confused rupturing the Viking pump.

I will have to check to see if I even have that Valve on my 7000hat as I have looked behind the water tank.

Just never a good idea to close the radiator lines as the water tank is such a great heat sink for the truck and ONE OF THE BIGGEST ADVANTAGES AND OVERALL REASONS THE TRUCKS RUN SO LONG ESPECIALLY WHILE NOT DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.

Tank heat should never rise above 165-175 if it does you have other issues.

 

[FredC]

=does not have a return line that I know of.

goes through water tank coil and then through e1 or reverse...complete circuit


but like you said I wouldn't give up the additional cooling

 

[Mikey P]

Turn down the Xentherm. Easy as can be.

 

[Lint Basket]

Unless you fill up at home, which I do now for DI water. I loved hitting the 2nd and 3rd houses of the day for fresh cold water. It would help cool the engine as well as the tank. Added insurance to help cool the engine. Keep your radiators washed off too.

 

[Giorgio]

I never liked using a hydro force with 180+ degree temps.

Mount a 25 gallon electric sprayer from Tractor Supply for consistent prespray.