Prochem Fine Fabric Cotton Shampoo

[Johnny]

Got a white Haitian cotton sectional and chairs to clean and a jug of Prochem Fine Fabric Cotton Shampoo. Instructions say sponge on and vacuum off. Do you just lather it on without scrubbing? How long do you let it dwell? Does this juice do the job? Anything else?

Much obliged.

 

[Mikey P]

Real Haitian from the 80s?

 

[Jim Pemberton]

Its a "quick and dirty" way to clean the fabric. You'll need to provide some agitation; if its not heavily soiled, the sponge alone may be enough.

If you need to be a little more aggressive, use a horsehair brush, and brush along the poorly twisted weft yarns (true Haitian Cotton looks like a mop woven into a fabric).

The product is formulated to be removed by dry vacuum and towel extraction only; rinsing it out defeats the purpose. The residue you leave on the fabric contains a reducing agent that "turns the browning clear" as it occurs during the drying process. If you rinse it out, the fabric could turn brown during the drying process. If you use an acid rinse, it might create sulfur dioxide when it couples with the reducing agent in the shampoo, and create an even more obnoxious odor than the shampoo itself.

Don't plan to apply protector, as the shampoo residue will prevent the protector from bonding.

If you have a dry tool, there are better ways to clean natural cotton fabrics now that won't leave the fabric smelling the intestinal gas of someone who has had a few too many beers and tacos.

 

[Mikey P]

It's been a GOOD long time since I've messed with a real Haitian...


I think Id use the non cotton version of the Prochem Fine Fabric Shampoo, a SS tool and the sun and or fans to get it dry quick

and mega dry strokes

and a very detailed pre vac

How old is it? Has the rubber backing gone yellow yet?

 

[Desk Jockey]

I'd pass.

I would only clean in a salvage situation where I had NO liability. Tell them to save their money for re-upholstery.

That stuff is nasty, I still have nightmares from some of that stuff!

 

[Johnny]

Real Haitian from the 80s?

I think it is real Haitian cotton. Not sure how old; customer bought used. Don't remember a rubber backing. I've cleaned it a couple times over the years. Very time consuming. And it's on the beach, (humid environment).

 

[Jim Pemberton]

The older it is, the more likely it is to brown. The cellulose material breaks down over time, and even with the safest techniques, can give you a little "yellowing around the edges".

 

[The Great Oz]

I've cleaned a few of these using the HydraMaster Drimaster and the same cleaning solution used for any other fabric. If you have one of the Drimaster/Upholstery Pro/ShearDry type of tool you probably don't need the bleach.

If it still seems scary, you can prespray with OMS before wet cleaning.

PS: Haitian shampoos damage the fabric. A couple of cleanings and you can poke your finger through. Make sure you check the fabric on the top of the back to make sure it isn't already in bad shape.

 

[J Scott W]

There are some synthetics made to look like Haitian cotton. Although I don't know why someone would want to imitate that look.

 

[Johnny]

I've cleaned a few of these using the HydraMaster Drimaster and the same cleaning solution used for any other fabric. If you have one of the Drimaster/Upholstery Pro/ShearDry type of tool you probably don't need the bleach.

If it still seems scary, you can prespray with OMS before wet cleaning.

PS: Haitian shampoos damage the fabric. A couple of cleanings and you can poke your finger through. Make sure you check the fabric on the top of the back to make sure it isn't already in bad shape.

What's OMS?

I've cleaned this uph before with a Dri-Master and with an SS tool. Don't remember the specific chemistry, but spent all day each time.

Would probably decline this job for someone new, but this is an old customer in a jam.

 

[J Scott W]

OMS = Odorless Mineral Spirits

Odorless does not mean without odor, it means "less" odor.

there are many grades and make-ups of OMS. Some have less odor than others some clean better than others. I preferred OMS that has been more refined to removed some of the odor causing constituents.

 

[Johnny]

Thanks. OMS from the hardware store? How does it work to prevent browning?

 

[Cleanworks]

Thanks. OMS from the hardware store? How does it work to prevent browning?

It sets up a moisture barrier to prevent over wetting and is helpful in removing oily soils.

 

[Johnny]

Interesting. How heavily do you spray the OMS? Mist or saturate? Does the OMS function as a cleaner, or do you prespray a cleaner on top of the OMS, and if so, doesn't the prespray emulsify the OMS? If not, does the fabric remain oily?

Much obliged.

 

[Desk Jockey]

I think Oz has smelled too much oms.

Seriously I personally have never had great success using as a moisture barrier.

I'd check for the purity of the Hardware store oms. Its likely for cleaning paint brushes or removing paint from wood. Doubtful for fabric cleaning. I'd check with your local distributors.

If you decide to use it make sure you have plenty of ventilation. OMS doesn't evaporate quickly either. The solvent odor can linger for days.

Always educate the client prior to using it in their home. After the fact explanations are usually taken as an excuse.

 

[Johnny]

I think Oz has smelled too much oms.

Seriously I personally have never had great success using as a moisture barrier.

I'd check for the purity of the Hardware store oms. Its likely for cleaning paint brushes or removing paint from wood. Doubtful for fabric cleaning. I'd check with your local distributors.

If you decide to use it make sure you have plenty of ventilation. OMS doesn't evaporate quickly either. The solvent odor can linger for days.

Always educate the client prior to using it in their home. After the fact explanations afterwards are usually taken as an excuse.

So, where do yall get your pharmaceutical-grade OMS?

 

[Desk Jockey]

Distributors. We use Prochem's dry cleaning compound.

 

[SamIam]

Well I like Haitian powder from chemspec or use to.

I only use CTI’s natural fiber cleaner,

I know it’s loaded with bisulfite, and I think it also has sodium percarbonate.

Back in the day we would use b105 shampoo from Prochem mixed with oxy plus and fiber buff.

Whip it into a foam and and scrub it with a horse hair brush.

Then put fans on it and put it in the sun if possible.

 

[The Great Oz]

I know it’s loaded with bisulfite, and I think it also has sodium percarbonate.

You Haitian cotton killer! Only thing better than a chemical fire for Haitian is an actual fire.

Cleaning distributors carry the OMS best suited for fabric cleaning. OMS is a non-volatile solvent, meaning it dries slowly. It works as an oil and grease solvent. If you decide to use it, you have to apply enough so the fabric yarns are full of solvent. You are then cleaning the surface of the yarn while the solvent prevents water saturation. You remove a percentage of the solvent with vacuuming, and your wet cleaning product will remove some as well. With some slow vacuum passes after cleaning, and lifting the tool slightly while you vacuum (which you should do anyway) you can remove enough OMS that the furniture will dry normally.

Back when they first came out I used one of the new tools on a heavily soiled Haitian (no OMS) and it came out great. Showed the techs and got instant buy-in for a tool change.

PS: Just brushing the surface of Haitian cotton will often improve the appearance enough that the customer will think you cleaned it.

 

[Johnny]

I think I'm gonna go for it with hwe after a thorough vac, and have my helper vac again with a shop vac after I extract. Might use a heat gun, too. Set it on the deck in the sun before the tide comes in and sprays it. I recall using Dynachem products sorta successfully on this uph a while back, but don't remember the exact process. I have Dynachem: Fiberbrite Reducing Agent, STTP powder, and Natural Fiber Extraction Cleaner. I may have presprayed a mixture of Fiberbright and STTP (I'll call Larry for the ratio), and rinsed with Natural Fiber Extraction Cleaner, and applied solvent protector to expedite drying. Does this seem like a viable approach?

 

[Mikey P]

Take pics please

 

[Johnny]

Take pics please

Will do.

 

[Desk Jockey]

I think I'm gonna go for it with hwe after a thorough vac, and have my helper vac again with a shop vac after I extract. Might use a heat gun, too. Set it on the deck in the sun before the tide comes in and sprays it. I recall using Dynachem products sorta successfully on this uph a while back, but don't remember the exact process. I have Dynachem: Fiberbrite Reducing Agent, STTP powder, and Natural Fiber Extraction Cleaner. I may have presprayed a mixture of Fiberbright and STTP (I'll call Larry for the ratio), and rinsed with Natural Fiber Extraction Cleaner, and applied solvent protector to expedite drying. Does this seem like a viable approach?

Yep...sounds like it will strip all the color out.

Seriously I don't know. We don't use Larry's cement mixer concoctions. I think it would be wise to check with him before proceeding.

 

[Johnny]

Yep...sounds like it will strip all the color out.

Seriously I don't know. We don't use Larry's cement mixer concoctions. I think it would be wise to check with him before proceeding.

It's undyed.