Safest Upholstery Prespray

Crazymcnick

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Jun 22, 2009
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What do you guys think is the safest Upholstery prespray? I wanna start messing around with upholstery to test it out but wanna start with a safe product.

Thanks
Tom
 
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Crazymcnick said:
What do you guys think is the safest Upholstery prespray? I wanna start messing around with upholstery to test it out but wanna start with a safe product.

Thanks
Tom


Not one product is safe to use on everything, leather,haitian cotton, ETC.
 

Walt

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If you mean safe, as in "I really don't want to blow this," then get a gallon of BioKleen's Bac-Out and use it straight. It will safely work on synthetics, wool, cotton, and even water cleanable silk. And I've even used it on suede. Spray it on, brush it in and rinse with water.

It's not the strongest product and it's a little expensive, but you really wont blow it. And your lungs will thank you. Once you gain some confidence you can try some other products.
 

leesenter

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I have used Prekleen For Upholstery by Chemspec on all my trucks for a couple of decades and never ever had a problem. Its a neutral enzyme prespray that melts body oils and used with a fabric rinse agent and a dry tool is very safe to use.
 

Jose Smith

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The absolute "safest" prespray would be to prespray with a dry cleaning solvent. This will actually dissolve many oils on the fabric before you clean it. More soils are oil based than some cleaners realize.

By using a dry cleaning solvent, you will not have things like shrinkage, water staining, colors bleeding, brown-out, etc. happen. (Of course, there are always rare exceptions to some of the above problems.)

The disadvantage to using a dry cleaning solvent is that you will be limited to dissolving light oil based soils only. Any water based soils will not be removed. For this, a water based prespray/detergent is necessary.

One more advantage to starting out with a dry solvent is you will be creating a moisture barrier. In other words, any wet cleaning procedures that may follow will not get the fabric as wet. So less concern about a really wet fabric browning, bleeding etc. and a shorter dry time.

This is probably the "safest" way to begin, next to getting proper training of course. Proper training will teach you what could possibly go wrong, and why. Then you will know what to do and what to never do.

Cleaning fabric can be a scary thing without a little knowledge.

Jose Smith
 
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I keep a sprayer of TLC by Prochem mixed and ready to go and use it on most upholstery. If it is really dirty synthetic I will mix up some Powerburst and that gets the job done. If I am cleaning something with bleed potential or browning concerns I skip the prespray and use Haitian Cotton Shampoo which foams great and shampoo with horsehair brush and then extract. Ofcourse I will charge a little more for fine fabrics as well. I used Fine Fabric Prespray by Bridgepoint the other day on a cotton floral print and it did a great job. The customer paid a lot for this fabric and bought it in Paris and made me test a scrap peice which was nice of her to have for me. Most of the upholstery you clean you can just use your carpet prespray. You will need to learn what to test for. My biggest concern would be browing and color bleeding. So always test and rinse with acidic rinse solution.

To answer your question the safest cleaner you could use would be a nuetral shampoo or haitian cotton shampoo which is like a 5 ph and still cleans heavy soiled fabrics just fine.
 

Chris A

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start with something like Prochem Fine Fabric Shampoo, then get aggressive as you get more comfortable. A horsehair brush over the wear areas makes a big difference too.
 

Art Kelley

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Do NOT use your regular carpet prespray as that may be too hiigh of a pH for natural fibers. I spray Chemeister's Preaction on just about any fabric and it cleans well. This is a good neutral to slightly acidic prespray that you can use on wool rugs also. Test for colorfastness on a zippered side of a cushion. If you don't want to bother taking an upholstery cleaning class (who has the time?) then make sure your insurance policy covers the inevitable damage due to incompetence. :p
 

TimP

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I use Judson O2 but I usually just see synthetics and cottons for upholstery.
 

Wayne Miller

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Do yourself a huge favor. Before you start "start messing around with upholstery to test it out" take a class.
 

Jim Nazarian

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I would highly recommend one of the high performance upholstery tools, I use the Hydramaster DriMaster, the combination of not over wetting & over spray combined with its sheering cleaning action has eliminated most of the problems.

Safe chem + Drimaster & basic fabric knowledge = worry free upholstery cleaning.
 

GeneMiller

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Tom,

I think the easiest and cheapest way to learn upholstery is to stop by homes on garbage day and pick up some cushions that people are throwing out. You can practice all you want and see the results. I also will pick up a rug once in a while. After you get good and confident write down where you got it and return it cleaned with a little note. It's an easy way to get new customers. I guarantee you no one else is doing it. Except me of course.

Gene
 

sweendogg

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He only has one problem fellas, He using the rotovac, cfx combo so he has limited heat, no ability to acid rinse straight through the tool, (unless he can jimmy rig a direct siphon with a 1-32 ratio tip straight into his solution line). So he could use a high performace tool, but keep the above info in mind when making recommendations to him.
 

Crazymcnick

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Jun 22, 2009
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Yeah thanks Sween I left that part out... not a big deal I won't be cleaning upholstery until I have cleaning carpets down to a science.. I was curious about the upholstery products.

Thanks Guys
Tom
 

sweendogg

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Tom, my random thought on the siphon system, may just work for your carpet cleaning rinse dilema. You may be able to use a siphon system like a hydroforce style hooked in by the sink to give you the ability to add a rinse agent to your cleaning if you wanted to run a detergent, or acid rinse, or o2 rinse. All it would require would be a low pressure hydroforce or similar inline sprayer with the female on one end like its already configured and a quick connect on the solution hose comeing out of the hydroforce instead of a gun applicator. You could connect a short hose from the sink to the hydroforce and then your solution line to the hydroforce. You would have to play with the dilution ratio to make it pull the appropriate amounts. But this would be an option for you.
 

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