Seal Grout Lines Only or Seal the Entire Floor?

[Carpet Cleaning Fool]

I received a 30 second tutorial from the local vendor on how to seal grout using a grout applicator wand. I’ve been using it successfully for a couple years now.

Recently, I learned that some cleaners seal the entire floor wall-to-wall instead of sealing grout lines only.

What is the proper technique for sealing a floor after it has been cleaned?

Should I use a grout wand to do the lines only? Or, a special applicator to seal the entire floor?

Thanks,

 

[TimP]

Entire floor for stone, and small tiles.

I use a pump sprayer and just put a bead down the grout lines. Then wipe up after like 30 min or something like that. You're supposed to keep applying till the grout wont take the sealer anymore.

 

[Mikey P]

Unless you're using junk $20 a gallon sealer and you want to save time, why would you waste GOOD sealer by spraying it on non absorbent tiles?

 

[Bruce Humphrey]

Unless you're using junk $20 a gallon sealer and you want to save time, why would you waste GOOD sealer by spraying it on non absorbent tiles?

Because the time saved was worth more then the amount of extra sealer I had to put down.

 

[Gary T]

Because the time saved was worth more then the amount of extra sealer I had to put down.

Unless you have to go back and attempt to clean up a penetrating sealer that didn't penetrate that tile or polished stone and made a mess. It can attract soil, discolor, become sticky, allow footprints, peel, dull the gloss, etc. I guarantee it will be a pain in the a$$ to remove.

 

[safeclean]

I agree with Tile Care.

For grout we use the small bottles with the brush attachment on knee rollers than buff the floor.

Tip: When attaching the brush unscrew the bottle first than press hard until it is secure otherwise it will full off during the process also buff each room try not to wait until all the floor is done as you may be there for a while buffing.

Craig

 

[CapeCleaner]

Entire floor for stone, and small tiles.

Not all stone floors have to sealed. As Gary T stated, if the floor is polished stone the pores have been closed through the polishing process and the sealer will not penetrate. Test a small area before sealing a stone floor or counter to make sure the sealer will penetrate.

The idea behind putting sealer on the entire floor that is comprised of small tiles is to save time. Instead of taking the time to put the sealer on all those grout lines, put it on the entire floor, allow some time so it penetrates the grout lines, and then wipe it off the tiles. If there is still a film of sealer on the tiles, dampen a rag with the sealer and wipe the floor. Buff if necessary to ensure all the sealer is removed from the tiles.

 

[Bruce Humphrey]

Because the time saved was worth more then the amount of extra sealer I had to put down.

Unless you have to go back and attempt to clean up a penetrating sealer that didn't penetrate that tile or polished stone and made a mess. It can attract soil, discolor, become sticky, allow footprints, peel, dull the gloss, etc. I guarantee it will be a pain in the a$$ to remove.

The few times I have did this , I used a white pad and buffed the sealer off , both times had no problem. I couldn't even imagine how long it would have taken me to do each grout line with out spraying all the tile.

 

[TimP]

Entire floor for stone, and small tiles.

Not all stone floors have to sealed. As Gary T stated, if the floor is polished stone the pores have been closed through the polishing process and the sealer will not penetrate. Test a small area before sealing a stone floor or counter to make sure the sealer will penetrate.

That is not true. Granite is usually polished stone but even in it's polished state it's porous as can be and requires a impregnator sealer. The way you test is you do a moisture test....5 min with liquid on the surface and if no color change/absorbtion then it don't need it.

I have my tile and stone patch and I know....I guess I should of explained things better, but when talking with colleagues I figured it would be known to test for absorbtion on stone.

 

[Gary T]

The few times I have did this , I used a white pad and buffed the sealer off , both times had no problem. I couldn't even imagine how long it would have taken me to do each grout line with out spraying all the tile.

Nothing wrong with doing it this way with the small tiles. Just make sure to get the sealer off befor it starts to "tack" is all. The reactivating the sealer trick works, but not all the time.

When sealing stone, remember all stone is different, even under the same name. Most true polished granite needs no sealing, some do.
Test....Puddle of water, let stand 15 min, wipe. If it is darker, you may be able to seal it. Use solv sealers on "most" stone.

 

[David Gelinas]

I ain’t smart enough to remember all of the differences when it comes to absorbency of a given tile or type of tile but this is what I do know. Yes, even porcelain has a measure of absorbency to it, albeit very small. It also has pores because it off gasses when it’s fired. So do we “seal” the tile even in a non-absorbent tile? I don’t know. I sell piece of mind. At the same time we also explain ourselves by saying something like – “Mrs. Jones what we are most focused on is sealing the grout because as you know it is the most absorbent part of your floor. While we are doing that we also end up applying the sealer to the tiles as well, when we buff off the residue. All tiles are at least somewhat absorbent; we have even seen porcelain tile stain which is supposed to be stain proof.” - - - or something about like that.

As for how we go about sealing grout, it couldn’t be simpler. With both water and solvent based sealers we get a very inexpensive applicator bottle from HD with a rollie wheel on it. Tape (yes tape) ½ inch dowel to the bottle and viola. That way we do all of our sealing from a standing position and we can move very fast. I’ve never used an applicator stick but I would assume they’d work just about the same. Our applicators last a long time and when they do need to be replaced its normally that the wheel isn’t rolling as well as it once did. We buy a new applicator bottle, through away the bottle and keep the cap.

As for sealing stone, interior like trav and marble, we use a pump up sprayer. Ever so lightly mist the stone and use either a strip-washer (a window cleaning tool) or micro fiber disposable dusting clothes to work in the sealer. In both instances we buff off the excesses normally first with a hair pad and then with additional hair pads or bonnets.

If we’re sealing or color enhancing a rough surface like tumbled trav pavers or brick pavers or the like, most of the time we spray it on and work it with a soft bristled push broom and collect our check.

If we do ever have to remove residue that’s dried onto the surface most of the time re-applying sealer will remove it.

Just my .02
David Gelinas
Marbleguy

 

[CapeCleaner]

That is not true. Granite is usually polished stone but even in it's polished state it's porous as can be and requires a impregnator sealer. The way you test is you do a moisture test....5 min with liquid on the surface and if no color change/absorbtion then it don't need it.

I have my tile and stone patch and I know....I guess I should of explained things better, but when talking with colleagues I figured it would be known to test for absorbtion on stone.

It is very true that not all stone surfaces have to be sealed. As stated in the last sentence of the quote referenced, all stone surfaces should be tested to ensure the sealer will penetrate.

I also have my "tile and stone patch." By far the most useless IICRC certification course I've attended. Extremely limited and provides as much misinformation as it does useful information. A good example is promoting the over-use of sealers.

 

[Mikey P]

Other than Dry Treat, does any company offer a Porcelain specific sealer?

I think you should all re-read David's post.

 

[TimP]

It's true that porcelain tiles absorb moisture. A regular clay glazed tile absorbs more. However I don't know if it absorbs through the glazing or not.

Porcelain tiles are approved for outdoor use due to the little ammount of moisture so that when it does freeze it's not as likely to crack from the expansion of water.