as we're getting into more and more rugs, now I'm starting to be asked questions about problem spots. For those guys not full-immersing every rug, what are some general spotters you use for coffee, pet spots, etc. Wash pit is coming when we move but right now all rugs are HWE.
Spotter List for an Aspiring Rug Hack...
- Thread starter Chris A
- Start date
The Great Oz
Member
In general, anything that's safe for wool. Urine pre-sprays and some coffee pre-treatments are acidic enough to damage color and some coffee removers contain oxidizers that can damage colors and fibers. Really pay attention to fantastic products that combine alkalines or acids with oxidizers, they can do a lot of damage faster than you can stop them.
Some of the oldest rug plants in the country have been successful by getting rugs plenty wet but don'thave a pit to immerse them. Some rugs shouldn't be immersed. A pit is just another tool that lets you do more than you can without it, but you don't necessarily have to aspire to own one.
Some of the oldest rug plants in the country have been successful by getting rugs plenty wet but don'thave a pit to immerse them. Some rugs shouldn't be immersed. A pit is just another tool that lets you do more than you can without it, but you don't necessarily have to aspire to own one.
sweendogg
Member
To add to Brian, you'll probably see more plants washing a majority of their rugs on a wash floor if they are doing them mostly by hand and not automated on a moore machine. Urine and heavily contaminated rugs are primarily the rugs that will go through a complete pit washing to allow dwell time and extra flushing. Just remember to keep your heat down and use wool safe products when using your tm. Actually you will do yourself a service by simply turning your heat off on the cds. At the present time we full wash and pit wash but we use the truckmount with a large water claw to extract followed by a glided wand. When our rug numbers warrant it, we will look at a centrifuge to start with and as we move into a larger facility for just rugs then that will open up the possibility of a wringer.
Spotting wise, some good general spotters to keep around include: Glacieal acetic acid as a good acid side spotter and for correcting/preventing browning on the fringe. We actually use Masterblends master rinse because that is exactly what that product is. A good citrus gel can be handy for some tougher greasey spots and a HVS can be very handy when dealing with problem rugs and greasy spots. The Dry cleaning spotters are very popular amonst rug plants. We haven't personally had the opportunity to use these yet in our plant but have played with a little at other plants. They can make very quick work of spotting and often will remove alot of tough spotting challenges without any damage.
Even if you are only doing a couple dozen rugs a year, I'd say try to get to one of RCT classes with Aaron Groseclose. You'll learn more than enough to stay out of trouble and you'll find out if rugs are something you really want to be working with. a $300.00 course is cheaper than even a $3000.00 dollar rug badger.
Even though Pedigree of pearsian rugs has been downplayed by many, its still awful important to be able to recognize the difference between a machine made, hand tuft and a hand knotted rug. And if you start to learn more about each rug type and what the cleaning challenges can be it will make cleaning them an awful alot easier. Understanding things like what can and should not be used when dealing with stains/spots on some of the heavily chemical washed chinese or indian rugs. Or recognizing a rug as a bleeder even before you colortest it.
I apoligize for being verbose. (I know I must be tired cuz I'm rambling.) As you encounter problems. Post them here or even rug hub and what your resources are and I'm sure you'll get pretty quick responce on how to proceed.
Spotting wise, some good general spotters to keep around include: Glacieal acetic acid as a good acid side spotter and for correcting/preventing browning on the fringe. We actually use Masterblends master rinse because that is exactly what that product is. A good citrus gel can be handy for some tougher greasey spots and a HVS can be very handy when dealing with problem rugs and greasy spots. The Dry cleaning spotters are very popular amonst rug plants. We haven't personally had the opportunity to use these yet in our plant but have played with a little at other plants. They can make very quick work of spotting and often will remove alot of tough spotting challenges without any damage.
Even if you are only doing a couple dozen rugs a year, I'd say try to get to one of RCT classes with Aaron Groseclose. You'll learn more than enough to stay out of trouble and you'll find out if rugs are something you really want to be working with. a $300.00 course is cheaper than even a $3000.00 dollar rug badger.
Even though Pedigree of pearsian rugs has been downplayed by many, its still awful important to be able to recognize the difference between a machine made, hand tuft and a hand knotted rug. And if you start to learn more about each rug type and what the cleaning challenges can be it will make cleaning them an awful alot easier. Understanding things like what can and should not be used when dealing with stains/spots on some of the heavily chemical washed chinese or indian rugs. Or recognizing a rug as a bleeder even before you colortest it.
I apoligize for being verbose. (I know I must be tired cuz I'm rambling.) As you encounter problems. Post them here or even rug hub and what your resources are and I'm sure you'll get pretty quick responce on how to proceed.
