Upgrading to Heated Drying

Discussion in 'Rugs and Textiles' started by cleanking, Jan 29, 2018.

  1. cleanking
    cleanking

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    Our dry room upgrades are happening this week. We've been drying in this 16'x16' room with 2 dehumidifiers and air movers for the past few years. With our volume increasing, this method has become less and less effective. We are filling more poles every wash day which is equating to more moisture we are attempting to remove with humidification and our dry times have been suffering (12-20hr+ dry times).

    With this new Cambridge SA-250 space heater we expect to see ambient room temperatures hovering around 120-140 degrees, shortening our dry times to consistently less than 8 hours. This allows us to get right into rug finishing the morning following a wash day, effectively allowing us to wash 4-5 days a week without compromising efficiency. We will be using less electricity and overall delivering a higher quality product to our clients.

    More pictures to follow through the week...
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    Beeks, Mikey P, The Great Oz and 3 others like this.
  2. cleanking
    cleanking

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  3. T Monahan
    T Monahan

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    Thank you for acquiring the unit from Centrum Force that is the collaborative effort with Cambridge to a achieve a good drying system for rugs:

  4. The Great Oz
    The Great Oz

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    I'll bet you find your dry times to be significantly less than eight hours, and you'll have fewer rugs that need post-cleaning fringe work.

    Are you going to take advantage of the extra height to raise your poles?
  5. cleanking
    cleanking

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    That is phase 2, happening probably end of 2018. We are planning to deconstruct the entire tower, send the 4 iBeam uprights out to be cut in the middle and extend 5.5' with new steel and re-powder coated, thus allowing us to maintain the same bolt patterns for the cross bars at the top and bottom and the wench driver function. Then lengthen the cabling and reconstruct the tower. While it's down we plan to rip up the carpet and grind the concrete smooth.
  6. cleanking
    cleanking

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    Holes cut in roof for intake air and exhaust fan. Cambridge unit hung. Intial gas lines put up. Ready to hook-up gas tomorrow and get some ductwork installed. Painting completed tonight.
    20180130_160447.jpg 30613.jpeg
  7. T Monahan
    T Monahan

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    May I make a suggestion?

    Instead of shipping and handling the I-Beams and cutting them, inserting another piece, and then repainting all four vertical stanchions, consider this:

    You could alternatively have a fabrication shop build four 5.5' extensions to be added to the bottom of the existing ones. During the fabrication, have them build them with pads that have the same bolt patterns that already are on the bottom of the existing stanchions. (If the pad does not have holes, you can drill and tap so that they can secure together) This may save money and time by securing to the pad that you already have on the vertical I-Beam on the floor currently. No need to adjust cross beams opposite on non-cable side. Leave it as is. It will be fine for structural integrity. (It's a bonus at that height- Hang rugs over it as needed) However, on the side where the cable hooks and winch mechanism are, move that entire horizontal structure down to the desired level closer to the floor and then re-attach, by bolting, to the vertical stanchions made as the add-on . You will need to drill, tap and bolt-on structure. Perhaps you could plan ahead and have that already done when fabricating the extensions. Touch-up paint where needed on existing structure. The four 5.5' extensions that are made could be powder coated even caution yellow (I think this could look sharp) or same color blue.

    You already know that you will need longer cables. I would recommend stainless steel aircraft wire rope.

    What do you think?

    (My company Centrum Force Fabrication has implemented this concept with some of our clients already - We would be glad to quote this)
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  8. cleanking
    cleanking

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    I've had that thought, getting the holes drilled just right as to not negatively affect the wench system was my concern, I'll email you.
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2018
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  9. cleanking
    cleanking

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    20180131_144020.jpg 20180131_150850.jpg 20180131_150856.jpg 20180131_150904.jpg
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  10. Brian H
    Brian H

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    Jordan, what kind of operation are you running there? :eekk:

    I think the word you meant to use was winch. Wench has a whole other meaning. :lol:
  11. cleanking
    cleanking

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    Of all the bozo's on this forum with horrible grammar and spelling, you pick my post to call out!? :clap::clap:
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  12. Brian H
    Brian H

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    Sorry Jordan. I am on a couple of sailing forums and that misuse comes up from time to time, so I am familiar with it. Better to know now though and not continue to misuse it. :biggrin:
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  13. Cleanworks
    Cleanworks

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    I'd rather have a wench system if you can find one that works.
  14. The Great Oz
    The Great Oz

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    Nice. I think you'll like the extra height.

    While you're at it... Even if not in earthquake country, it would be a good idea to bolt the towers to the floor, using a slab of heavy rubber to insulate the steel from the concrete. If you don't have a purpose for your smooth floor under the poles, you might consider gluing marine grade plywood (tongue and groove) to the floor so you can use that space as a tack-out/finishing floor.

    Sorry, I can't help myself. I turn any project from one phase to six or more - while I'm at it.






    Winches on the boat, wenches at the bar. Wenches on the boat are too distracting.

    (My sister and oldest daughter can sail big-boat rings around most guys. Good thing they don't come here. :redface:)
  15. cleanking
    cleanking

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    Thanks Bryan that's a great idea with the tongue and groove wood flooring.
  16. cleanking
    cleanking

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    Initial semi-post project cleaning complete and dry poles are back up. Tomorrow the electricians and HVAC guys are back to wire it all up and finish a few small duct-work items. I'm pleased with how much light is still on the floor even with the poles up. I figured if I can make it obnoxiously bright before the poles and rugs are hanging then it should be plenty bright for when they are hung.
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  17. cleanking
    cleanking

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    After a long afternoon on and off the phone with Cambridge we've got it up and running.

    Exhaust fan properly interlocked with the Cambridge heater, damper opens and closes as the unit is powered on and off.

    Had a manufacturer mechanical error with our damper for the air intake, Cambridge was very helpful and is sending us a replacement. Ran it for about 45 minutes, it packs serious HEAT! Can't wait to get a load of rugs in there Monday.

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  18. T Monahan
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    Looks like a serious business as a committed rug washer should look. Beyond looks is the practical approach to drying rugs effectively. I appreciate the posts.
  19. Mikey P
    Mikey P

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    dang Jordan


    How many rugs a month now?

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