Wood floor new construction

[tres davis]

Been brought onto a job to help try and save a wood floor in a new restaurant construction. Plumbing company is responsible as one of their new installs in kitchen broke and ran water all weekend into the wood floor area. No walls or structure are affected it's just the wood floor which is in an open room and is approximately 2400 square feet.
It's tongue and groove Douglas fir
Then 1" 1/8 advantec brand plywood subfloor
Then poly vapor barrier
Then floor level
Then concrete subfloor

We removed one small section to confirm and take a look. The nails for the subfloor have punctured holes in the vapor barrier and allowed water to run under it.

Can we save this?

My thought was to drill small holes (go into the knots on the wood) all the way to the floor leveler
Or should we just attach rescue mats and let the holes from the nails be the release points? Or is this not gonna work?

Have rescue mats and heated air plus the usual drying equip

 

[tres davis]

Another picture

 

[Big Jim]

Been brought onto a job to help try and save a wood floor in a new restaurant construction. Plumbing company is responsible as one of their new installs in kitchen broke and ran water all weekend into the wood floor area. No walls or structure are affected it's just the wood floor which is in an open room and is approximately 2400 square feet.
It's tongue and groove Douglas fir
Then 1" 1/8 advantec brand plywood subfloor
Then poly vapor barrier
Then floor level
Then concrete subfloor
We removed one small section to confirm and take a look. The nails for the subfloor have punctured holes in the vapor barrier and allowed water to run under it.
Can we save this?
My thought was to drill small holes (go into the knots on the wood) all the way to the floor leveler
Or should we just attach rescue mats and let the holes from the nails be the release points? Or is this not gonna work?
Have rescue mats and heated air plus the usual drying equip

Tres, With a floor construction such as this; much would depend on how much water
(level of saturation) and type (catagory?). It would be difficult if not impossible to get any airflow between the OSB (not plywood) and vapor barrier.The same may be true for the OSB and Doug fir flooring unless there are flutes in the flooring material. Another consideration (problem) would be the possibility of water/moisture trapped under the vapor barrier (if perforated) against the slab. All these things considered make this a tough drying situation if not impossible. If the moisture level is not excessive a "Salvage Effort" only effort might be considered ( floor mat system, dessicant, tenting) It's unfortunate but you don't want this one to come back and bite you if you accept responsibility to dry it.

 

[tres davis]

Cat 1
Unsure amount of water but it's substantial
There is water trapped at all levels including underneath the vapor barrier because of the nail holes (the specs on subfloor from manufacturer were for it to be glued down)
I am not liable for nor have promised a result. Merely an attempt and all paperwork is in order.
This place is set to open in 18 days and it's probably a 200k floor. Some special wood and there is only 50 feet left so they are willing to as much as possible to save it.

Current setup:
We have opened two ten foot long sections all the way to the concrete subfloor
Drying mats placed in between the two openings
Drilled holes in the floor beneath the mats all the way through the vapor barrier. Hoping to push air down through all levels and behind vapor barrier
Tented with heat
Do not have dessicants
Any ideas or suggestions are welcome thanks in advance

 

[Desk Jockey]

The best you can do is attempt it. We will offer them deals when we are unsure of the results and they want to gamble. We charge all labor and half rate on the drying equipment rental if it isn't processing fast enough.

Desiccant are great as you move to lower grains but heat and tenting should allow you to see if you can get any movement. Monitor the grains going into the tent and those coming out. Keep a close eye on progress. The size may require you to add more heat than you have currently.

 

[tres davis]

Thanks for the input Mr Chavez
Complicated job and I have set very low expectations. It does seem virtually impossible for anyone to verify that the entirety of the floor is dry due to the nature of the install

 

[Desk Jockey]

It would be difficult and as long as all parties understand then by all means try it.

Air flow beneath would be ideal but as Jim pointed out you may not get much to pass through there.

If it got in, you "may" be able to pull it back out but you'll need to create lower vapor pressure in the tent than in & beneath the floor. Heat is your ally. It aids in making moisture move from wet to dry.

Good luck!

 

[Greg Cole]

i'd rent or buy a small dessicant if i were you..... Otherwise it sounds like you are handling properly..... Likely WON't dry with that vapor barrier in my opinion but if it's going to - you have done everything possible with the exception of dessicant

 

[jada]

I guess you should come up with more pictures to get a rough idea about what u mean

 

[Willy P]

Thanks for the input Mr Chavez

Don't call him Mr. Chavez. Just call him Dick, like everyone else......

 

[Desk Jockey]

Well, I try.