4100 lx steamway heater problems

[firewaterstore]

Hi all
I am having problems with the heater on my machine. It seems like the kerosene is being drawn into the fuel filter but not the burner part. Sometimes when it is running for a bit it will fire temporarly, like it is drawing the kerosene, but then it gets so hot it has even emitted flames from the exhaust area and creates alot of pressure, and creates pure steam out of any open air way were there should be water. Does anybody have any knowledge about this? If so please respond

Chris

 

[Greenie]

confusing as all hell Chris.

start again.

Are you saying the fuel pump is injecting atomized fuel that is not thoroughly burning, therefor causing a fuel build up which in turn IGNITES and sends out a flame?

Sounds like you air/fuel mixture is off, also sounds like the fuel filter may need to be cleaned/changed. Also, based apon a recent thread, you may need to turn the fule pump pressure UP a bit, do you know where it is currently?

And what are you calling an "open airway" where "there should be water"?

Or are you just saying you are having Temp spikes and making live steam, instead of hot water?

 

[Duane Oxley]

Sounds like an electrode problem. In other words, there is a current between them at times, and at times, there isn't. Yet, there's fuel present when you pull the trigger on your wand. As a result, there's a build- up of unburned fuel, and no ignition, then when ignition does come in, there's a lot of fuel burning at once.

Check the alignment of your electrodes, to be sure that they're gapped at 1/8" and off- center of the fuel nozzle by about 1/8". (It's a lot like gapping spark plugs to be sure that they're igniting the fuel properly.) The points (tips of the electrodes) are not supposed to be directly in the fuel stream. They're supposed to be 1/8" off- center, so that the fuel ignites as it's passing by and not coating them.

If the above is done and you're still having problems, fold down the cover on the igniter box and check to be sure that the connection between the contacts is clean. (You may need to use carb cleaner, or, buff them lightly with sandpaper.) The connection I'm speaking of is where the springs that are under the electrodes come into contact with the brass strips when the cover is folded up.

If the above two have been checked, you may just need a new igniter.

 

[bob vawter]

soma youiz shoudn't play wit fire!!!!

 

[Jeremy]

Flow switch?

 

[everfresh1]

Sounds like an electrode problem. In other words, there is a current between them at times, and at times, there isn't. Yet, there's fuel present when you pull the trigger on your wand. As a result, there's a build- up of unburned fuel, and no ignition, then when ignition does come in, there's a lot of fuel burning at once.

Check the alignment of your electrodes, to be sure that they're gapped at 1/8" and off- center of the fuel nozzle by about 1/8". (It's a lot like gapping spark plugs to be sure that they're igniting the fuel properly.) The points (tips of the electrodes) are not supposed to be directly in the fuel stream. They're supposed to be 1/8" off- center, so that the fuel ignites as it's passing by and not coating them.

If the above is done and you're still having problems, fold down the cover on the igniter box and check to be sure that the connection between the contacts is clean. (You may need to use carb cleaner, or, buff them lightly with sandpaper.) The connection I'm speaking of is where the springs that are under the electrodes come into contact with the brass strips when the cover is folded up.

If the above two have been checked, you may just need a new igniter.

Yea I think you need a new igniter. I'm not as skilled as some of these guys but, I had the same problem and replaced the ingniter that took care of it. :mrgreen:

 

[Duane Oxley]

No, not the flow switch...

If it's wired right, the flow switch controls the fuel only. The electrodes should be running continuously. If the flow switch fails, either it will be "ON" all the time (until the temperature control senses an excess temp and kicks off), or "OFF" all the time (in which case, no fuel comes out).

It's in the ignition system.