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Mikey P

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Shower and tub enclosure cleaning procedure.
Protect fixtures and surrounding areas/floors as needed using Visqueen for walls and walk-off mats or tarps for floors. Chemically sensitive metals can be protected with non-residual masking tape or coated with Vaseline to prevent damage.

If hard water or soap scum are present, use a 4” window scraper/razor blade to remove as much buildup as possible from all flat surfaces. Use brushes and/or doodlebug pads on grout lines and uneven surfaces. Sweep up dust. Wear a mask during this process as the dust can irritate your lungs. Dry removal is often half your battle for removing buildup and in the end will save both time and chemical. Be thorough.

Positively identify all tile and stone surfaces and choose proper chemistry. Start with a mild alkaline cleaning agent and progress to a stronger solution IF NEEDED. Acids can be used for rust and efflorescence. Apply evenly. If there is calcite stone present that is already honed, acids can be used in a controlled application with the ability to quickly rinse and neutralize if needed. Peroxide-based or boosted alkaline cleaners are usually safer than acids but can etch/dull polished calcite stones. In either case, apply chemistry at the bottom of the walls and move upwards to avoid creating drip lines.

Apply your cleaning solution with a gloved hand, a bucket, and a grout sponge or Tuway green striped upholstery mitt or similar. Use doodlebugs and brushes as needed to agitate corners, shelves, grout lines, etc. If mechanical agitation is needed (polishers, hand drills with pads or brushes), wear eye and ear protection. Allow chemistry time to dwell and keep all areas from drying.
Light soil conditions can often be effectively rinsed with a handheld shower head if present. Moderate conditions can often be rinsed with a pressure washing gun and your carpet cleaning machine. Heavy soil buildup will require use of a tool such as an “MB Grinder,” mini spinner, or specialty tool (see tool acquisition list in back of manual). Use restoration fans to speed dry the surfaces and inspect to see if repeated cleaning/scrubbing is required.

If polishing or honing of any natural stone is needed, now is the time to do so.

If your cleaning (and resurfacing) was successful, it’s time to move on to dealing with repairing cracked, missing, or damaged grout or caulking. Failed caulking and grout should be left in during the cleaning process as it performs as a water barrier. Carefully remove all failed materials from floor-to-wall joints as well as wall-to-wall joints. Spend the time to remove as much grout and/or caulk as possible since this will affect the look and longevity of your repair. It’s common to find multiple layers of random materials used in past repairs; keep digging!

If sealer is to be applied to stone tiles and grout, now is the time to do so.

Grout repairs performed later will most likely utilize acrylic modifiers/or high-performance grout such as Prism and will not require sealing. If standard Portland cement-based grout is used, a return trip to seal may be required, or leave the homeowner with some sealer and instructions on how to apply to the repair if needed.

Pay attention to how much water and/or mold is present in the joints and how deep they go. If severe intrusion is present, use an infrared water damage camera to determine the depth. Use this observation to judge how long you will need to use fans and dehumidifiers to dry the cavities. In the driest of conditions, you’ll want to leave a water damage fan/Dri-Pod/Studebaker running for at least 24 hours. If the fans are turned off at night for the homeowners to be able to sleep, add extra time to the project.

Loose or cracked tiles and any built up efflorescence should be dealt with prior to drying as well. If tile replacement is needed, judge the depth of the damage underneath and proceed accordingly. Clean and restore all glass and metal fixtures and the bathtub if needed after applying sealers and before placing fans.

Once everything is completely dried, install grout or caulking. See manual for suggested materials. Once you have developed your application techniques, these second visits should go quickly and are a great time to start work on other projects within the house. Instruct the homeowner to not use the shower or tub for at least 36 hours after the application of grout, silicone, or epoxies.

Perform a final inspection utilizing a headlamp or flashlight, viewing repairs from many angles. Clean up all surrounding areas and have the customer inspect your work if possible. Ask them to let everything dry for another 36 hours and enjoy.

Share your blog articles on how to properly maintain your shower stalls and request an online review of your services.
 

hogjowl

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Joined
Oct 7, 2006
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47,883
Location
Prattville, Alabama
I had a long talk with a customer asking me to clean her shower stall this week. I was completely honest with her but told her I would try. She said never mind. She said she didn’t want to be a Guinea pig.
 
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Jim Pemberton

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Oct 7, 2006
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Jim Pemberton
I was completely honest with her but told her I would try. She said never mind. She said she didn’t want to be a Guinea pig.

Some of my saddest or most entertaining (depending on whether the listener is empathetic or a sociopath) stories of cleaning disasters start with "on the job learning".

You did each other a big favor there
 
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