3 Pumptecs in 3 years. Always the head.I flush it with an acid side rinse every month, I don't run it full out and I take damn good care of my equipment, no freezes as I put a heater in the van every night. I'm stumped - any clues or ideas?
Am I doing Something Wrong?
- Thread starter Willy P
- Start date
Nate The Great
Member
Willy P said:
CA?
Dolly Llama
Number 5
do you purge the pressure in the pump when you're done cleaning/wrapping up?
Keying the wand when the unit off will purge the pressure.
what chems do you run thru it?
(not the "once a month" acid rinse.
the juice you run day in and day out?
Powder, or liquid?
Our pre-sprayer pumps last longer with liquids compared to powders
..L.T.A.
Keying the wand when the unit off will purge the pressure.
what chems do you run thru it?
(not the "once a month" acid rinse.
the juice you run day in and day out?
Powder, or liquid?
Our pre-sprayer pumps last longer with liquids compared to powders
..L.T.A.
G
Guest
Guest
Powder Chems and Acid Rinses are hard on electric pumps; I would use an injection sprayer instead of runing through pump. As far as rinse chem; may wanna go with a low ph to neutral rinse liquid.
I just bought new Greenie. I don't like farting around, and when my equipment is down, I just want it back working and putting money on the table. I've got access to other equipment, but I'm happy with the way I've got things set up. All my Generals would go 5 years or better with just an oil change every 6 months, but the amp draw is pretty high as well as space considerations.(Maybe an external set up?). The machine runs about 4 to 6 working hours most days so it does get a workout, but not more than the other pumps I've used. I got 3 years out of a Hypro before as well.
Same chems Rickie, no effect on the other pumps.
Larry, I always blast off the pressure as the first thing I wrap up is the both heater cords and you can't disconnect the pressure line from the heater unless you key the wand. I use Ultrachem , not something you see down your neck of the woods. www.ultrachemlabs.com AWESOME stuff. Didn't seem to bother the other pumps, might not be compatible to aluminum?
Same chems Rickie, no effect on the other pumps.
Larry, I always blast off the pressure as the first thing I wrap up is the both heater cords and you can't disconnect the pressure line from the heater unless you key the wand. I use Ultrachem , not something you see down your neck of the woods. www.ultrachemlabs.com AWESOME stuff. Didn't seem to bother the other pumps, might not be compatible to aluminum?
Bill Soukoreff
Member
Willy, the heads are probably fine. It's the valve springs that usually go first. I only run cold water through my pumptec but I still am still replacing valves twice a year or even more. I don't think they can take running for several hours at a time.
General is the way to go.
Ask Larry Cobb what amps his 800 psi general pump runs at.
General is the way to go.
Ask Larry Cobb what amps his 800 psi general pump runs at.
yea, I'm with Bill. You don't hear about the pump-tecs failing left and right cause "most guys" don't run them that many hours, that many days a week. It's the price we pay for a compact low amp draw reasonably priced pump.
The good news is (as you've already discovered) you can pull off a pump head and reinstall one fairly quickly, so maybe get a few kits and do all your pumpheads at once, and be ready for the next round robin since you pound out the hours on em?
For me, if a guy said hey, I'm busy, I need to run this machine 6 hours a day, 6 days a week, I'd probably get to work on a General direct drive for him, and just face the music on weight, space, and amp draw, cause something has to give, Cobb is headed in the right direction as was your old VorNinja.
The good news is (as you've already discovered) you can pull off a pump head and reinstall one fairly quickly, so maybe get a few kits and do all your pumpheads at once, and be ready for the next round robin since you pound out the hours on em?
For me, if a guy said hey, I'm busy, I need to run this machine 6 hours a day, 6 days a week, I'd probably get to work on a General direct drive for him, and just face the music on weight, space, and amp draw, cause something has to give, Cobb is headed in the right direction as was your old VorNinja.
Nate The Great
Member
Greenie said:
I don't think amp draw is a problem with Willy. :wink:
Royal Man
Member
They are so easy to rebuild, that a chimp could do it.
John LaBarbera
Member
If you have had 3 pumps in a row go out, it's not the pumps fault. It is the way it is plumbed. It's sound like cavitation, which means you're sucking air. Go to the Mytee web site and check the 1005 pump plumbing and change what you got or you'll be spending good money after bad. If you need more help take a picture and post here and will try to walk you through it.
John LaBarbera
Mytee Products Inc.
John LaBarbera
Mytee Products Inc.
Bob Savage
Member
I have been using Pumptecs for years — both the 1200 PSI, and the 600 PSI units. If you do 2 things to these pumps, you will have no more frequent problems.
1. Install a thermal relief valve in the pump loop. As the recirculating water gets hot, the valve opens and burps the hot water. Then it quickly closes, and the entire process starts over again, but the water will NOT overheat the pump anymore.
2. Install an inline screw-in 50 mesh strainer out the bottom of the regulator that goes to the IN side of the pump (This is the pump loop when the wand is NOT being triggered).
When this pump goes into a loop (when you are NOT keying the wand), bubbles start to form in the loop as the water circulates, especially if you are running chemical through the pump. Bubbles are air, and air means cavatation, and reduced seal and valve life. The screw-in inline 50 mesh screen filter will destroy the bubbles as the water passes through.
PumpTec pumps are very reasonably priced, and provide good service, flow and pressure, when they are set up this way. Before I discovered this, I was having problems more than I should have.
1. Install a thermal relief valve in the pump loop. As the recirculating water gets hot, the valve opens and burps the hot water. Then it quickly closes, and the entire process starts over again, but the water will NOT overheat the pump anymore.
2. Install an inline screw-in 50 mesh strainer out the bottom of the regulator that goes to the IN side of the pump (This is the pump loop when the wand is NOT being triggered).
When this pump goes into a loop (when you are NOT keying the wand), bubbles start to form in the loop as the water circulates, especially if you are running chemical through the pump. Bubbles are air, and air means cavatation, and reduced seal and valve life. The screw-in inline 50 mesh screen filter will destroy the bubbles as the water passes through.
PumpTec pumps are very reasonably priced, and provide good service, flow and pressure, when they are set up this way. Before I discovered this, I was having problems more than I should have.
Very slick advice Bob, thanks.
Do you just use a little inline brass filter like on a wand, or a larger one like one of the plastic pump line strainers?
and...who would have thought that 24" of sol. line would have mad that many bubbles? Once you mentioned CHEM injection, that made sense, but the regular water bypass circuit had me saying where do the bubbles come from in a sealed circuit?
I stlll would have liked to see a pic of how the recoil xps has the pump plumbed, and if it is indeed set up to the pump mfgs. standard?
Do you just use a little inline brass filter like on a wand, or a larger one like one of the plastic pump line strainers?
and...who would have thought that 24" of sol. line would have mad that many bubbles? Once you mentioned CHEM injection, that made sense, but the regular water bypass circuit had me saying where do the bubbles come from in a sealed circuit?
I stlll would have liked to see a pic of how the recoil xps has the pump plumbed, and if it is indeed set up to the pump mfgs. standard?
Bob Savage
Member
Greenie,
I just use a small 1/4" brass body inline strainer. The entire loop line along with the unloader valve, thermal relief valve, and brass fittings, are attached to the IN side of the pump with a single swivel fitting, so the entire assembly (including checking the inline filter ocasionally) can be disconnected for easy access to all the pumps' external plumbing.
The bubbles come from the short distance between the pump head and the unloader valve on the PumpTec (less than a couple of inches). On a truckmount, there is a considerable length of hose in-between the pump and the unloader/regulator valves, which makes the loop run smoother.
I just use a small 1/4" brass body inline strainer. The entire loop line along with the unloader valve, thermal relief valve, and brass fittings, are attached to the IN side of the pump with a single swivel fitting, so the entire assembly (including checking the inline filter ocasionally) can be disconnected for easy access to all the pumps' external plumbing.
The bubbles come from the short distance between the pump head and the unloader valve on the PumpTec (less than a couple of inches). On a truckmount, there is a considerable length of hose in-between the pump and the unloader/regulator valves, which makes the loop run smoother.
Mikey P
Administrator
Real men dont use lamb vacs.
j/k Willy, dont blow a fuse.
GO Canucks!
j/k Willy, dont blow a fuse.
GO Canucks!
R
rotovacguy
Guest
Mikey P said:
I couldn't have said it better myself, Mikey. 8)
BTW....I know the Canucks are a hockey team.....but wtf is a Canuck?
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