Another burn repair - bonded insert.

[Jack May]

Being our winter, I do a lot of burn repairs at the moment.

Here's another that I did this afternoon.

There was the main scorch mark and then a number of small spots around the area outside of the photo. I did a combination of re tufting and grafts for those small spots and then did a full insert for the main damage.

Again, notice the different cut, trying to break up the finished lines so they are not as obvious.

There was a little colour difference as this section used for the donor had not been out in light so I had to colour the donor lightly to blend.

John

 

[Harry Myers]

John another nice repair. This is what I have noticed. Why with a product that can last for many years . do they use an inferior cushion. What is the weight density. 6lbs 8lbs or 10 lbs. I ask cause in the states it has to be aa min 10lb rebond or a synthetic felt cushion. It could also be a 80 oz or more rubber or a slab rubber cushion. These all have great density. Rebond should not be used for that application. Just Asking.

 

[Jack May]

Wouldn't have a clue on that side of things sorry.

That happens to one one of the better foamchip (re bond ) underlays (pad ) but I'm not up with the layer standards for NZ.

But I will say this, that is a typical installation here.

Another gripe I have is the retailers using "FREE UNDERLAY" in their marketing sales and then putting the cheapest nastiest stuff under coz it can't be seen

I'll make a few enquiries and see what I can dig up for you. I've been thinking especially because of my Inspector work as it develops, that i really could do with a copy of the Standard for installation so that I can check/clarify these issues.

John

 

[Charlie Lyman]

did you use a kool glide on that one?

 

[Jack May]

My traditional iron rarely leaves the van.

John

 

[Harry Myers]

What I am impressed from that picture is the gully . It is correct . Allot of people in the states put it to far away from the wall. It at most should be 3/8 of an inch from the wall. John and your absolutely right standards are for reasons. I would think and hope the New Zea land wool Foundation would have high standards. There wool is well you know.

 

[John Watson]

John and Harry, Not only is the gully correct, but, the installer, or probably his helper while stripping it out miss hit the nail.























He needs a Medal, He added another!!!!

 

[Jack May]

John, those marks are scorch marks on the timber surround!!

Harry, I have heard it taught that the gully should be approx 2/3 of the thickness of the material being installed.

That is what I aim for anyway, and never have trouble with the carpet not staying in there.

John

 

[Harry Myers]

John I said I was impressed on the gully size. Unlike in the /states People usually go the thickness of there fingers. I was implying that what I saw was correct and glad to see so Mate. You are my mate. And there is no criticism John. I was impressed and still am

 

[safeclean]

Nice work there John got to love winter

Craig

 

[John Watson]

John, I am yaking aboot the 2 knail heads in the tackless. One can see that one is bent and then flattened down. What I was commenting on the hammerer knew he screwed up and added an other knail to make sure the tackless was secured.....Aye, You sure ain't from Canadia???

 

[Jack May]

Not if it's associated with the likes of you and Tony, especially when he teaches one to 'taste test' before stain removal. One assumes this is a Canadian fetish :?: :roll:

I see what you're on about now.

It's all good Harry, how does that 2/3's rule stack up to how you teach?

I very rarely have to do that sort of stuff anyway but it's good to know.

John

 

[Harry Myers]

John M . I dont have a clue what the 2/3 rules is. Thanks

 

[Jack May]

Harry, I have heard it taught that the gully should be approx 2/3 of the thickness of the material being installed.

John

That's what I was referring to Harry.

I know from experience that it works for me but I can't tell you where I picked it up.

More than one way of skinning a cat so no worries.

John

 

[Stevea]

The CRI guidelines state the gully should not exceed 3/8 pf an inch.

It is often said it should be slightly less than the thickness of the carpet but not to exceed 3/8 inch.

SA

 

[Jack May]

Thanks Steve.

3/8 is MASSIVE though :shock: in metric that's 9.5mm (millimeters)

I aim for 6-7mm which 6.4mm equals 1/4" so about that or a tad more.

I like them tight and find at that point there, I get good locking.

Mostly though, I'm installing across doorways where they have ripped up whatever and installed tiles and when butting carpet up to tiles you need a good locking to do it without the use of glue in the gully.

John

 

[Stevea]

John,
Here is a gully from an inspection where the consumer said the carpet would not hold. Think this is too wide?

Here is another one that is too wide

This is what is done a lot in installations, no wonder the stretch does not hold.

SA

 

[safeclean]

Wow Steve nothing will hold with that gap looks like the carpet installer thought due to the thickness of carpet he had to make it wider luckily for you it is on a wooden floor.

craig

 

[Jack May]

OK, I see where you guys are coming from now. I've NEVER seen anything like that before and I've lifted quite a few carpets in my time doing water damage restoration.

In cases like that, are you/they able to hold the installer responsible?

Probably the worst situation I come across is the use of liquid nails (contact adhesive glue compound in a large tube, don't know what you guys might call it ) on concrete installations. Smallest amount of moisture and it lets go, too much stretch and it lets go so obviously they didn't use a power stretcher.

I carry a ramset battery operated rotary hammer drill for use with re fixing tackless to concrete floors. Makes it so easy.

John

 

[Stevea]

Craig,

Quite common to see this, no one wants to put the right gap in a gully it seems. Wood floor is nice to work with in this situation, easy to correct.

John,
I will have to share use of hot melt to hold tackless down, not just any hot melt but it is a good way to hold it down and do lots of repairs with.

Little worry here with a power stretcher, just not used a lot here. While there are some very skilled technicians, like Harry, they are far and few. I look at it as job security so I am not complaining, only explaining. Had three inspections today and one tomorrow on my way to do a class, there will always be inspections and corrections. It is just the way it is here.

SA

 

[Harry Myers]

Steve that is horrible . How can people that do this for a living live with these secrets.

 

[safeclean]

Hey John

Can you please send me a picture or the name of the hammer drill and the plugs you use to install smoothedge I mean tack less strip many thanks.

Hey Steve what is this hot melt?

Craig

 

[Jack May]

Craig,

this is the baby I use. It was only 100 more for cordless which is invalueable at times. quick charge of 15 mniutes so check battery level first onsite and if needed, it's charged by the time you're set up and ready for it.

Sales blurb.

DD524
For fast, effortless drilling into even the toughest concrete, the Ramset DD524 cordless rotary hammer with its quick change R drive tool-holder / keyless chuck assemblies sets the standard. With a drilling capacity into concrete of 16 mm, impact stop for screwdriving and drilling into wood or metal, the DD524 is a powerful, versatile rotary hammer for use where mains power is not available.

Features
• Quick release long life R Drive Tool-holder change to keyless chuck.
• Impact stop.
• Forward / reversing rotation.
• Electronic control.
• Suitable for screwdriving.
• Battery charge indicator.
• Overload clutch.
• 360º auxiliary handle.
• Option of 1.7 or 3.0 Ah batteries.

I'll have to maybe get back to you on the fasteners.

John

 

[Stevea]

Harry,

That is a common everyday thing to see, now you know why I consider this Job Security; also why corrective work comes into play.

Here is one I looked at yesterday and may possibly do the correction on it but I never know for sure, had I had my tools with me I would have just repaired it while I was there but I was on my motorcycle doing inspections and just did not carry any repair tools.

Here is the bath area and there are two seams, one at the door and one where the pen is

this is the seam at the door with the delam

here is the seam where the pen was

Very simple to repair but the consumer is wanting new carpet. I never know what will be done but this is common stuff along seams.

The installation part of our industry can leave something to be desired, to say the least.

SA

 

[Jack May]

Steve, would you have just re laminated that with hot melt glue?

John

 

[John Watson]

So true about repairs, They are everywhere,

"Very simple to repair but the consumer is wanting new carpet" Steve,

This was a problem on alot of the inspections I did. The mill rep or carpet store rep would tell them, "Oh yeah, this is defective and we will replace it" and along comes me, Oh, I can repair this They say Nay-Nay, I want new.

(I guarantee I ain't better than you, buts I have carried my repair tools with me on my Bike, (Goldwing and trailer and usta have a couple of custom trykes back in Alaska)What kind of scooter ya got?

 

[Stevea]

John M,

Yes, I would have used hot melt but I use different than what is bought at a hardware but yes, hot melt. The seam tape was still in place so there was not a reason to take that apart. Seal edges(with the same hot melt) and laminate it and it would hold great. Very easy repair as most delamination repairs tend to be.

John W.

I ride a Suzuki V-Strom and I have side bags and a large middle carrier so that I can carry tools with me. I usually do I just did not have repair tools with me for some strange reason. I must have had one of those brain fogs you spoke about earlier somewhere. It was a fantastic day to ride and I had a full day riding and inspecting, I love it when I get paid to have some fun. My wife rides with me as well, just not yesterday.
Sounds like you had quite a set up with a trailer. I live in the mountains with a lot of hills and curves, great place to ride.
You are right about wanting new carpet, that is what they expect, I just go with the flow, sometimes they want it repaired and sometimes not, I tend to not get too excited about it. I was just enjoying the ride. I just report and let the mill make those decisions.

Take care,
SA