There was someone in Las Vegas that did this on a Direct Drive. It took him several months to work out the 'bugs' but after he got them all worked out, he was happy with it. It wasn't an app on a phone, but it was a remote start/stop.
Any newTruckmounts w/ app?
- Thread starter Mike J
- Start date
Legend Brands" data-source="post: 4815016" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">Full throttle on these units is not full RPM
2600rpm for the 3 and 4cyl engines
2800-3000rpm for the air cooled engines
And comparing these units to an automobile, one would think that there should be another fan added to the side of the unit blowing air directly on the belts, like a car, to keep the unit cooler with longer belt life and pushing the heat out the rear while pulling fresh air in from the front of the van with the windows down. But what do I know?
Meter Maid
The Undetective
Legend Brands" data-source="post: 4815016" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">The engine is one thing I’ve never had a problem I with.
Which is closer to full RPM? 3000 RPM when max RPM is 3750 or 2000 RPM when max RPM is 5000?
Legend Brands" data-source="post: 4815017" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">Im doing mine today, seems simple. will post before and after
Legend Brands" data-source="post: 4815024" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">I don't understand your logic on that. 3000rpm isn't max rpm.
My point to you was these engines have plenty of room to pull more power and air to cool it down. Why are the air cooled tm engines set at 3000max when my zero turn mower is set at 3300?
Most of the headaches I've had with the 6 truckmounts I've owned could've been prevented
F
FB19087
Guest
The point is it's running at a much higher percentage of max RPM. 80+% in the example. Industrial engines (most) are specd for power at a much lower rpm. Also the sweet spot isn't usually at peak rpm (curve starts to flatten)
Cars generally aren't run continually in the upper rpm range of 5k+ (80% of redline)
and on a car the fan is pulling/removing heat from the radiator coil....not so much providing cooling for the external components.
Nate The Great
Member
Isn't it sweet spot/ fuel consumption/ longevity of engine at a given speed... But have at it Smatty boy, we know you smarter than the engineers who puts them together.. Want to add a fan, add a fan..
I miss John Oslon on TM threads..
I miss John Oslon on TM threads..
Your zero turn mower isn't spinning a blower and pump as well...
All of that has to be taken in consideration when calculation when figuring out what RPM to spin the motor. And as Fred said, these motors are already spinning over 80% and peak hp/torque is never at max rpm
Peak torque ACTUALLY happens at 2400 RPM...
Legend Brands" data-source="post: 4815095" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">Is there a temperature comparison on 2400 and 3000rpm for the air cooled engines?
The main purpose of my reasoning is to have more air moving over the heavy heated areas on the machine, pushing the heat out. What has been the results of putting a secondary, electrical radiator fan on the side of the machine, pushing it out the back? If you can drop the temp by just 10F, it has to help some
Meter Maid
The Undetective
I have always read that air cooled engines are designed to run at close to max and run cooler then.
3000 RPM is fairly close to max. As I was telling Matt yesterday over text messaging, you also have to factor in RPM of the blower and pump. He suggested changing pulley sizes, however if you do that, you are lowering the RPM of the blower which will also lower the CFM, and lower the heat. Same goes for the pump. Would you rather run your motor at max RPM 100% of the time which will create more wear and tear on the motor, or have more CFM and more heat?
Legend Brands" data-source="post: 4815271" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">Are you saying that if the engine is set at 3400rpm, you can't find a pulley size to keep the blower and water pump spinning at the current rpm it's set at now? I know there would need to be redesigning the frame from our conversation. But isn't the goal to reduce operating temp?3000 RPM is fairly close to max. As I was telling Matt yesterday over text messaging, you also have to factor in RPM of the blower and pump. He suggested changing pulley sizes, however if you do that, you are lowering the RPM of the blower which will also lower the CFM, and lower the heat. Same goes for the pump. Would you rather run your motor at max RPM 100% of the time which will create more wear and tear on the motor, or have more CFM and more heat?
Nate The Great
Member
Alright Smatty boy, running a HX machine vs a fuel burner.. The "so called free heat" comes from someplace.. Whether its the coolant or blower heat exchanger or both.. Something has to give.. You either "stress the blower" or you buy fuel for a propane or diesel heater.. Or if your fine at cleaning at 180degree temps..
Just be glad you didn't buy the Thermal Wave new.. You'd probably would have set it on fire by now..
Just be glad you didn't buy the Thermal Wave new.. You'd probably would have set it on fire by now..
Loving this option after a couple days. First time I restarted remotely I had no suction. the tennis ball fell out of port 2 when machine off. Never liked the ports on this machine and had to customize from the start. My old Thermalwave has nice ports welded on and have rubber cap that I don't need to play around with. On this machine, not the case. I will find one soon, but for the last 6 years just been plugging with a piece of wood or a tennis ball.
Here is the quick fix. Now im set, and looks so high tech lol
I know where the free heat comes from. My whole point to this conversation is aimed at finding a way to cool these machines down
I remember about a year ago, I made the suggestion to someone at sapphire about using their new coolant heat exchanger as an oil cooler for the engines to help keep the oil at a lower temp while heating the water up in the air cooled engines. The dude barely responded with "we've never tried that" and the conversation ended.
We are the ones seeing how these machines wear. Not in a test lab or even 10 machines being tested in the field. Almost 20 years of "testing" here!
what about mounting and air mover permanently, I had one in the cart at Costco that is 1/3 the size of the normal air movers, was thinking it would be great to put on a coffee table or chair when doing upholstery. I cheeped out because I have enough fans. It was only $64 and was a sweet air mover.
You should see the dinky heat shield they (blue line/sapphire) put on top of the Catalytic converter that only covered half of the exhaust setup, while a water line almost laid on the hot muffler. Or the tiny little computer fan (that was a waste) they put to cool the water pump down because the goofy box coolant heat exchanger prevented any air flow under the engine, causing failure to overheating. Or even the hot water orifice bypassing the temp sensor at the y-strainer, giving accurate temp reading ONLY when pulling the trigger. Yes, THEY designed that, not me. It's all in the manual.
I'm not the one that would've caused the fire. It would've done it all by itself thanks to the genius engineers who are so good at testing.
I have a power inverter on my everest that I'll be plugging a small fan in to help
I had an inverter, toasted it during a rain storm, when I was doing the kero burner thing. I went back to a long cord on a reel and just plugged in.
Will the Everest 650 fit ok in the Chevy Express 3500 extended wheel base? Im set on being able pull into my garage for maintenance, and weather.
KevinD
Member
You want to cool it down? My mounts were side door slide ins.
Build a frame on the left side of your tm and install a 12 volt electric radiator fan blowing out the back door.
Not a small one. One that will move 2000+ cfm.
Best thing I ever did.
