Best Floor Finish for Sealed Concrete

[squidbillyms]

Got 3500 sq. ft. of sealed colored concrete at a church (reasonably high traffic), and I wanna protect it. What is the best sacrificial layer (w/ low maintenance - no burnishing) to put on top ... iShine, Hard As Nails, etc.
Thanks.

 

[Mikey P]

A mechanical polish...

 

[squidbillyms]

A mechanical polish...

Thanks for the response. Is that possible/practical with decorative colored concrete that has already been sealed? It has a topical "accent color" (swirls of a darker brown) that would likely be completely removed.

 

[Mikey P]

You said it was already sealed, do you mean with a topical or with a penetrative?

 

[squidbillyms]

You said it was already sealed, do you mean with a topical or with a penetrative?

They poured with an integral color then brushed on a topical accent then sealed with a solvent based cure-seal (APC PRECISION CLEAR-SEAL-30 PREMIUM). They would like to add a sacrificial layer on top to keep from having to reapply the sealer in the future.

 

[Kenny Hayes]

A good finish is all you need. No need to get to technical, meaning whatever’s your go to finish. Actually, I bet you could use twister pad and make it look great.

 

[squidbillyms]

A good finish is all you need. No need to get to technical, meaning whatever’s your go to finish. Actually, I bet you could use twister pad and make it look great.

Thanks for your response. It actually looks real nice now as they just added the last coat of sealer about 3 weeks ago. However, the building hasn't "opened" yet to the routine traffic. They simply want to protect the sealer since maintaining a sacrificial top layer of wax will be easier than the sealer itself. I guess I will just choose between iShine and Hard As Nails or Hybrid.

 

[Small town janitorial]

Ishine is a great wax but it is designed for some maintenance. I'd lean toward hard as nails or terra glaze by spartan.

 

[squidbillyms]

Ishine is a great wax but it is designed for some maintenance. I'd lean toward hard as nails or terra glaze by spartan.

Thanks. That helps. What about Betco Untouchable?

 

[Kenny Hayes]

I’m glad to see everyone is being smart for a change. Usually, they wait 12 months, then start screaming about their floor. All of those finishes are
adequate..

 

[Stephen D. Gillett]

Got 3500 sq. ft. of sealed colored concrete at a church (reasonably high traffic), and I wanna protect it. What is the best sacrificial layer (w/ low maintenance - no burnishing) to put on top ... iShine, Hard As Nails, etc.
Thanks.

I agree with others, that a Mechanical polish will be best, if burnishing is not an option. Seal with an impregnating water-based silicone-solid sealer to help with regular maintenance. This won't prevent etching, but it will help with stains and make maintenance easier. A great liquid repellent. I recommend STONE PROs Safeguard H2O; or for a deeep penetrating sealer try the SOLVENT BASED Smartkrete SmartSeal SB.

 

[Dolly Llama]

I have a 6th grade education
so dumb it down for me

that a Mechanical polish will be best,

What's a "mechanical polish"?

Seal with an impregnating water-based silicone-solid sealer to help with regular maintenance

is that compatible with this ?

"solvent based cure-seal (APC PRECISION CLEAR-SEAL-30 PREMIUM). "


are there any finishes or sealers that aren't compatible?

Thnkz


..L.T.A.

 

[Mikey P]

What's a "mechanical polish"?

Diamond polishing..

 

[Stephen D. Gillett]

I have a 6th grade education
so dumb it down for me

No problem. Hope this helps:
-- A mechanical Polish naturally brings the finish to a more reflective finish with clear images using resin-based diamond abrasives. More aggressive grits remove damage (220 grit, 400 grit). Finer grits bring up the shine or reflection (800, 1500, 3000, 8000 grits). Just like sand paper to wood, a finer grit makes it smoother. With stone, smoother means it will reflect light more. This final finish is the more durable, but it can still scratch and etch, and you use no chemicals. The maintenance to a mechanical finish is easier to take care of than a coating (epoxy or acrylic)

BUT, there is no reason to do a mechanical polish above 800 grit if you are dead set on coating the floor with a solvent-based topical chemical. Any coating will still scratch and scuff. And it is more difficult to remove damage from an epoxy than a mechanically treated floor (in my experience).

A mechanical finish up to 800 grit will bring more reflectivity. You will have to ask the manufacturer if prepping the floor mechanically up to a 800 grit finish is compatible with their product.

You have decided to use an solvent-based acrylic coating. This coating will need to be burnished to maintain the finish. In the string above I thought you said you didn't want a coating that needed to be burnished?

STONE PRO makes a water-based Acrylic guard that is compatible with mechanical polishing. They recommend to prep the floor starting with a 200 grit then go to 400 grit finish, then apply Smartkrete SmartGuard. The SmartGuard reduces the harmful effect of acids on concrete as well as repels oils and grease.

Hope this helps.

What's a "mechanical polish"?




is that compatible with this ?

"solvent based cure-seal (APC PRECISION CLEAR-SEAL-30 PREMIUM). "


are there any finishes or sealers that aren't compatible?

Thnkz


..L.T.A.

 

[Kenny Hayes]

I have a 6th grade education
so dumb it down for me




What's a "mechanical polish"?




is that compatible with this ?

"solvent based cure-seal (APC PRECISION CLEAR-SEAL-30 PREMIUM). "


are there any finishes or sealers that aren't compatible?

Thnkz


..L.T.A.

I did the best I could for the 6th grade class

 

[Kenny Hayes]

And you probably don’t need to be messing with a floor

 

[squidbillyms]

Thanks for all the responses ... let me clarify a little ... when I said "no burnishing" I didn't mean none ever ... they just will not be burnishing frequently.

 

[Stephen D. Gillett]

Thanks for all the responses ... let me clarify a little ... when I said "no burnishing" I didn't mean none ever ... they just will not be burnishing frequently.

Got it:
Easy 3 Step Process:
STEP 1: use 400 grit on a slow speed floor machine to prep the floor.
STEP 2: Apply Smartkrete SmartGuard with a sprayer and spread thin with a MicroFiber applicator.
STEP 3: wait 1 hour and Burnish with a high speed 1500RPM or faster, burnisher.
You will have a reflective, protected floor that may need burnishing once every 6 months.
SMARTKRETE SmartGuard HOW TO Link

 

[Dolly Llama]

I did the best I could for the 6th grade class

I can dig it
But did Steve?

Is he suggesting James sand off the NEW stained and solvent sealed floor to 800grit and juice it with another product?

..L.T.A.

 

[Stephen D. Gillett]

I can dig it
But did Steve?

Is he suggesting James sand off the NEW stained and solvent sealed floor to 800grit and juice it with another product?

..L.T.A.

Must have misunderstood the question. I thought he was looking for a solution for treating a concrete floor. OOPS!

 

[Stephen D. Gillett]

They poured with an integral color then brushed on a topical accent then sealed with a solvent based cure-seal (APC PRECISION CLEAR-SEAL-30 PREMIUM). They would like to add a sacrificial layer on top to keep from having to reapply the sealer in the future.

"OH SAMSONITE!... I was way OFF!"
So... I did not read the whole string before I gave my Feed-back. I sucked it on this one. Sorry guys. I missed the whole stained concrete and "already sealed" part. I'll slow my roll for the next "advise".

 

[dealtimeman]

Your good I am going to try this on my garage.

 

[Kenny Hayes]

It’s all good. For sacrificial finish, it doesn’t need to be complicated.