GeneMiller
Member
We see a lot of it usually at least one emergency call a week. Total time less than 10 minutes. Unfortunately a call came in during the videoing. We never touch the trigger until done.
Gene
Gene
Blood
- Thread starter GeneMiller
- Start date
Mikey P
Administrator
Very similar to ink removal but blood has a far greater chance of whicking back up due to its weight.
Dang stuff finds its way in to the backing real easy.
Is the "secret sauce" 40 vol and protein remover?
Thanks for the video Gene!
Dang stuff finds its way in to the backing real easy.
Is the "secret sauce" 40 vol and protein remover?
Thanks for the video Gene!
GeneMiller
Member
Cold water, 40 volume at 2 cups per gallon and a drop of flex. I've never found it necessary to use the enzymes.
To prevent wicking obviously it has to be completely gone. When we are completely done I re spray the whole area and wait a couple minutes. Because the peroxide concentrate is so high it will show foam where there is still blood. I separate the fibers and see what's there and then extract until gone. I repeat just in those areas until gone. This one took 3 times I believe before no more foam. I rarely get wicking but it does happen.
Not counting my learning curve I was 100 percent successful on synthetic carpets even with really old blood until recently. I did one a month ago that was a couple day old and I couldn't break down the hard crust. I even brought in the rotovac which works on old crusted blood. I spent over an hour in one small area and nothing. It reacted beautifully but would not come out. I even tried rust remover on it. The crust would not give. It might of been some medication in his blood I'm not sure. I mixed vacaway red relief and peroxide on the spot directly and that did help some but very disappointing.
A little warning. Never mix peroxide and red relief or similar products in a container. The reacton is very violent and immediate. i apply directly to the carpet. It generates heat and a pretty intense oxidizing effect. I would only use it on white. The first time I did it I had the bridpoint product stain zone and I got a little wisp of smoke and it turned the white carpet whiter almost instantly.
Gene
To prevent wicking obviously it has to be completely gone. When we are completely done I re spray the whole area and wait a couple minutes. Because the peroxide concentrate is so high it will show foam where there is still blood. I separate the fibers and see what's there and then extract until gone. I repeat just in those areas until gone. This one took 3 times I believe before no more foam. I rarely get wicking but it does happen.
Not counting my learning curve I was 100 percent successful on synthetic carpets even with really old blood until recently. I did one a month ago that was a couple day old and I couldn't break down the hard crust. I even brought in the rotovac which works on old crusted blood. I spent over an hour in one small area and nothing. It reacted beautifully but would not come out. I even tried rust remover on it. The crust would not give. It might of been some medication in his blood I'm not sure. I mixed vacaway red relief and peroxide on the spot directly and that did help some but very disappointing.
A little warning. Never mix peroxide and red relief or similar products in a container. The reacton is very violent and immediate. i apply directly to the carpet. It generates heat and a pretty intense oxidizing effect. I would only use it on white. The first time I did it I had the bridpoint product stain zone and I got a little wisp of smoke and it turned the white carpet whiter almost instantly.
Gene
Desk Jockey
Member
Nice job! That stuff works great.I might be a little concerned about marketing blood work though.
It just gets to where the size of the job can boarder on Biorecovery work. We can treat up to quarter size spots and treat it like any spot but bigger than that we have to treat it as Biohazard.
We're not the "Blood Police" so the home or business owner always have options but we also don't want to end up in trouble trying to care for someones problem. There are so many issues with removal & disposal of blood soaked materials, its considered a biohazard/infectious material, it could get you into hot water.
We have a waste biohazard company stop by twice a month for pickup of boxes that need to be incinerated. The waste water is also disposed in a sanitary sewer where its safely processed.
We just had a large blood clean up Thursday from a deer going though a plate glass window. However animal blood is not considered a biohazard. So when still charged at a higher rate it wasn't Biohazard work.
It just gets to where the size of the job can boarder on Biorecovery work. We can treat up to quarter size spots and treat it like any spot but bigger than that we have to treat it as Biohazard.
We're not the "Blood Police" so the home or business owner always have options but we also don't want to end up in trouble trying to care for someones problem. There are so many issues with removal & disposal of blood soaked materials, its considered a biohazard/infectious material, it could get you into hot water.
We have a waste biohazard company stop by twice a month for pickup of boxes that need to be incinerated. The waste water is also disposed in a sanitary sewer where its safely processed.
We just had a large blood clean up Thursday from a deer going though a plate glass window. However animal blood is not considered a biohazard. So when still charged at a higher rate it wasn't Biohazard work.
GeneMiller
Member
I don't market for it. With 3/4's of the retired residence on blood thinners you see it a lot. Everybody not just me. I'm not sure what ss does. Maybe I'll call and check their response. I wondered at what level it was considered a bio hazard. What would you normal charge for that much blood
Desk Jockey
Member
Not much more than regular carpet cleaning for what you showed. The concern is when its saturated.Then the client needs to decide to replace it or sign a waiver.
