Boxxer Last step Chem System PITA

[tman7]

I got a Boxxer 421, Chem system ran fine first 1500 hrs but since I've had nothing but headaches getting to work reliably. Wondering has anyone ever tried using a General Pump chemical injector and bypassing the last step chem system by putting one of these right before the high pressure line exits the system? (before quick connect) Seems it could work with an adjustable flow meter and very inexpensive. The only downside to this particular one would be it only operates at 700 psi or below.

http://www.higherpowersupplies.com/VM-360168.html

 

[Blue Monarch]

I have wanted to try the same thing. I shit-canned my last step system years ago. I just put the chem in my freshy now.

 

[dgardner]

I got a Boxxer 421, Chem system ran fine first 1500 hrs but since I've had nothing but headaches getting to work reliably. Wondering has anyone ever tried using a General Pump chemical injector and bypassing the last step chem system by putting one of these right before the high pressure line exits the system? (before quick connect) Seems it could work with an adjustable flow meter and very inexpensive. The only downside to this particular one would be it only operates at 700 psi or below.

http://www.higherpowersupplies.com/VM-360168.html

I haven't tried it, but I suspect it would be more trouble than it's worth. A couple of points jump out at me:

• It's only rated to 190 degF
• You have to choose the model based on flow - there are separate models for 1-2 gpm, 2-3, 3-5, etc. This implies as you change wands, like to upholstery tool or tile spinner, your chem draw could be all over the map.
• Like you said, operates at 700 psi or below.

If the last step diaphragm and valves are good, there are no air leaks or plugged lines/strainers, the last step system should be pretty reliable.

 

[tman7]

Yeah, Good points.

I've replaced pretty much everything with the exception of the 3 way selector valve. Which could be the problem, I suppose. I get very low draw 2-3 gph but its inconsistent.

But I may have found a solution. dultmeier.com sells a adjustable injector that is rated for 300F. Could possibly work. I may also consider a a low psi injector before the water box that hydra-master uses on their CDS machines. Of course it would no longer be last step injection but might be worth having to descale the system occasionally.

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/0.737.2723/1023

 

[Chris A]

I've had to replace the three way valve numerous times on my c.d.s. due to hairline cracks that develop, finally switched to stainless, still it seems my chem system is screwed up one way or another every couple months

 

[Ron Werner]

I was told these won't work if you put them on the high pressure side of the pump. I was talking to the pump guys at ICE and they were telling me it requires a pressure drop for these to work.
I'd like to try on myself, they only cost a few bucks.
Currently mine has a simple suction right at the pump inlet. Nothing to break. It puts chem into the pump and HX which would keep things descaled depending on what you're using. The bypass puts it back in the tank so it keep drawing as long as the pump is working.

 

[Joel D]

I say just try to fix whats on there.

Order 2 or 3 of those rubber diaphragms, the three way valve and maybe even the correct size hose and replace. Tighten clamps good and tight. Blow thru line to check.

When im done using any kind of elmusifier i make sure i run a mild acid rinse or water thru system to rinse out anything that could eat away at that diaphragm pump.

Also during winter even using a heater i either disconnect line that goes to gauge or run antifreeze thru there.
Ive read here that that area is particularly susceptible to freeze damage cause of dead end line.

I bought some clear tubing so i could see what was going on but found out it wasnt the exact size so i had a hard time keeping leaks from happening.

Once i started doing all that havent had any problems.

 

[Ray Burnfield]

The chemical system on the Boxxer are pretty much the same as all the others.
You will have problems if you are using high pressure.
If you are having to replace the diaphragm, it's a good idea to replace the disk.
As g as there isn't a leaking hose you should be good for quite awhile.

 

[Dolly Llama]

92.73% of guys with chem pumps are fresh water rinse advocates ....for a reason


..L.T.A.

 

[Jimmy L]

Just rig a demi valve with quick connects and plug in the the out going on the front panel.

Draws from the solution jug and bypasses all internal plumbing.

Picture using the demi valve off a hydroforce sprayer .

Dultmeires has them for about $25 plus quick connest add another $20?

 

[Desk Jockey]

92.73% of guys with chem pumps are fresh water rinse advocates ....for a reason


..L.T.A.

OUCH!

 

[GeneMiller]

Air leaks are the main reason it would stop working. I don't understand why so many have a problem with it. It's been pretty much trouble free for me. I don't use the clear braided air hose I use a hard plastic line that uses stainless connectors. They are for industrial equipment and don't leak.

gene

 

[Blue Monarch]

consider yourself lucky I suppose. More power to ya

 

[AJR]

Just rig a demi valve with quick connects and plug in the the out going on the front panel.

Draws from the solution jug and bypasses all internal plumbing.

Picture using the demi valve off a hydroforce sprayer .

Dultmeires has them for about $25 plus quick connest add another $20?

imagine such a simple idea. too bad i just completely retro fitted my 777 with chem injection system, could have saved a bundle.