Cat pump seals and chemical system

[TimP]

I have a cat 3cp on my 2006 hydramaster CDS 4.8.

I have just over 1500 hours on the pump. I've never done any maintenance on the pump other than oil changes. I'm thinking it's time for new seals on the pump. So the question is, at 1500 hours are you supposed to change them out and what do I need.

Second, my chemical system will prime easily but it wont draw consistently. Right now it will pop to 2gpm and stop drawing in a second or two, that's with the metering valve completely open. So how would I go about fixing this problem, or do the seals have something to do with the chem pump. I'd like to fix both at the same time.

 

[Hoody]

Hey Tim,

For the cat pump you can buy the seals/rebuild kit, its not terribly hard to do. Why you think it needs rebuilt ? If chem is not drawing correctly, the rubber diaphram may need replaced, or you have an air leak in the chemical system. Could be just a tiny pinhole going from the chem system to the meter. I would check all check valves and screens first attached to the chem system. Could be something as easy as a clogged screen.

 

[Able 1]

I have 3500 hours on my 3cp and I haven't replaced the seals ( I have them ready though) ,they are easy to replace. I never had the problem described, and I wouldn't think it would have any thing to do with the pump. I would just rebuild the chem injection parts, diaphram, check valves ect.

 

[Bob Savage]

I have just over 1500 hours on the pump. I've never done any maintenance on the pump other than oil changes. I'm thinking it's time for new seals on the pump. So the question is, at 1500 hours are you supposed to change them out and what do I need.

Second, my chemical system will prime easily but it wont draw consistently. Right now it will pop to 2gpm and stop drawing in a second or two, that's with the metering valve completely open. So how would I go about fixing this problem, or do the seals have something to do with the chem pump. I'd like to fix both at the same time.

First, why do you think it is time for new seals on the Cat?

As Steve said, check out the parts within the chemical system. The smallest pin hole will wreak havoc on those systems.

 

[TimP]

The pressure doesn't hold well as it used to when you key the wand. So I thought that might be the problem

I did have a leak in the 3 way ball valve for priming. It did have a crack in it so I replaced it. But it still wont pull chemical right. I thought maybe the seals might have something to do with it since I don't know much about it all. So that's why I'm asking. I did replace the diaphragm not too long ago, but nothing was wrong with it at that time. I had a different problem that I fixed. But it still wouldn't draw chemical 100% right. It would draw up to about 4 wide open and I know that wasn't right but it functioned for what I needed. There is a slight hair line crack in the meter so now I'm thinking that may be the problem. I don't know about check valves but I suppose that could be the next possibility...

 

[ronbeatty]

I just got a 5cp 6120 back from Cat Pump. It was leaking water, it had 1800 hrs on it. After 3 years of use I think it is a good idea to replace the seals.

 

[TimP]

I just got a 5cp 6120 back from Cat Pump. It was leaking water, it had 1800 hrs on it. After 3 years of use I think it is a good idea to replace the seals.

I'll have 4 years on my pump in October. And close to 1600 hours. I think the crack is the most likely suspect right now. But I think the seals need replacing for maintenance at this point. I thought I read they were supposed to be done at 12-1400 hours in the manual but I wasn't sure.

 

[Bob Savage]

There is a slight hair line crack in the meter so now I'm thinking that may be the problem.

I agree, replace it.

That should do it.

 

[TimP]

This is what I'm thinking will work

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/5159

 

[Able 1]

sure beats this... :shock:
http://www.interlinksupply.com/index.ht ... 3+++++++++

 

[GeneMiller]

all my previous machines ran chem threw the pump and I had problems with seals , but this machine has a chem pump and i don't have problems anymore. I wouldn't replace the seals until they start to leak. that's just my opinion. it won't fix your flow problem. it's almost always an air leak.


make sure that the new flow meter is stainless or you will have problems. you can also get it with viton orings if you want. I prefer the gauge that goes to 5.

gene

 

[The Magician]

HM won't suck chemicals with any leaks or cracks. Replace it

 

[TimP]

I just replaced the Dwyer and after priming, it pulled chemical. But only at 2 gph at first now 3 after running it a bit. I'm guessing there is some crud keeping it from sucking faster. I'm thinking over time or if I run some vinegar through it that it will pull like new. Thanks for the help.

I also bought new seals for my pump. I'm seeing a 25-35 psi drop when keying my 10 flow wand. I'm not sure if that's enough to motivate me to change the seals right away. But at least I have them. They are pretty darn expensive for what you get.....but the price at dultmeir was way better than the suppliers.

 

[Bob Savage]

I purchase all Cat Pump parts from Windtrax.

They have the best prices I've found, including the Cat Pump, if you ever need a new one.

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

This is what I'm thinking will work

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/5159

sure beats this... :shock:
http://www.interlinksupply.com/index.ht ... 3+++++++++

The dultmeier Dwyer unit is brass internals.
The ILS Dwyer unit is stainless steel internals (same as the original Prochem furnished part).

One will last years, the other a few months maybe.

Maybe I should start carrying the brass one instead of the stainless. I would certainly make more money (volume), and maybe make some people happier with the lower unit price. LOL :roll:

 

[TimP]

Why use stainless when the fittings are all brass. There is tons of brass on my machine. Just so you know it was the acrylic that broke and not the fittings.

 

[GeneMiller]

the brass float will wear away quickly no longer showing the correct flow. stick with stainless. brass fitting get thinner over time but until they leak won't become a problem.

gene

 

[TimP]

the brass float will wear away quickly no longer showing the correct flow. stick with stainless. brass fitting get thinner over time but until they leak won't become a problem.

gene

The ball inside isn't brass unless it's coated with something.

The only difference is the fittings for in and out. And you can take your old ones out and replace the brass ones with stainless if yours had stainless before. The acrylic will crack and need replacement before the brass fittings will wear out in my opinion.