Cleaning tiled shower

#1
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Can someone give me a rundown of what their system is for cleaning tile and grout in a shower? I would like to know psi, temp., prespray, rinse, sealer and anything else you can add to help me from messing up. I'm doing this on my own personal shower but would like to offer it later down the road. I have a mytee hand tool for cleaning tile and grout. Thanks!
 
#2
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We do lots and lots of showers. They can vary a lot but just the cleaning side isnt that complicated.

Usually we start with a high pH pre treat, most of the time no grout line scrubbing is needed because the chem does all the work. Stainless grout brush if you have some really tough areas.

1000psi, high heat (even though not always needed), cobra hand tool or hand spinner. Sometimes youll need razor blades for really nasty spots etc.

if the shower is kinda nasty many times youll need to replace the caulking with something, color rite makes nice products.
 
#4
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Nick, get a couple of big, coarse, stainless steel wool scrubbing pads. A toothbrush type grout brush. Mean Green or Flex or Viper Venom detergent (alkalines). A can of Barkeeper’s Friend (acid).

Now then, you are removing old scum mixed with lime. Alternate alkaline and acid. Start from the bottom and work up with each product. Rinse. Repeat. Rinse.
Squeegee and sip a coffee. Inspect and go over the necessary.

You can also scrub with a Makita and home made pads, either from blue or red pads. On fiberglass, no steel wool, just red pad or nylon brush.

It takes a surprising amount of effort to detail it all out and is like waltzing in a phone booth. Be patient.

Good luck.
 
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#9
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When not color sealing what are you using to reseal?
clear seal, I like the dupont stone tech line. and color sealing a shower is okay but you have to explain to the customer that it will need maintenance. Mostly just the shower pan will have issues over time and you cant use cheap home depot color seal
 
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A decent amount maybe 25 or so this year, haven't been doing it for a really really long time but it seems to hold up pretty well.

I did a few with regular color seals and they held up well on wall but not so much on the shower pan. If the customer will pay for it it's better to regrout shower pan.

Problem with color seal in general is most are too lazy to acid etch and they use cheap color seal
 
#14
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Mike, so harsh :shifty:
I do a lot of new construction post cleanings and seal. Color sealing walls and even pans are awesome and permanent. I guarantee my jobs. If however the grout is impregnated with scum, scale, mold or previous penetrators I won't guarantee.

It's the level of cleaning that can ensure a good long lasting bond for any color sealer. I use a chemically and mechanically bonding sealer and I never have to apologize for failures. I've R&R'd a lot of shower pans and then color seal after grout cured a few days. Those jobs I warranty as well

Everyone loves acid cleaners but better think about testing and making sure that there's no acid sensitive stone anywhere near or they're paying for polishing. Even some ceramic glazes won't tolerate some acids.

Some of the non-acid glass restorers contain silica flour. They will micro scratch glass when using power tools to polish the scale from the surface. Cerium Oxide is the industry standard but it's not cheap.

If most of the residue is soap scum with the balance hard water scale I don't bother with using a turbo tool even though I designed it. Since there's a drain in the floor of every shower I've started using a rotomax zero degree nozzle on my pressure gun at about 1500 to 1800 psi with pretty high heat to zip the history right off walls, pan, and glass. Prespray is high pH and no agitation just multiple fine mistings to attack the bond.
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#18
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Mike, so harsh :shifty:
I do a lot of new construction post cleanings and seal. Color sealing walls and even pans are awesome and permanent. I guarantee my jobs. If however the grout is impregnated with scum, scale, mold or previous penetrators I won't guarantee.

It's the level of cleaning that can ensure a good long lasting bond for any color sealer. I use a chemically and mechanically bonding sealer and I never have to apologize for failures. I've R&R'd a lot of shower pans and then color seal after grout cured a few days. Those jobs I warranty as well

Everyone loves acid cleaners but better think about testing and making sure that there's no acid sensitive stone anywhere near or they're paying for polishing. Even some ceramic glazes won't tolerate some acids.

Some of the non-acid glass restorers contain silica flour. They will micro scratch glass when using power tools to polish the scale from the surface. Cerium Oxide is the industry standard but it's not cheap.

If most of the residue is soap scum with the balance hard water scale I don't bother with using a turbo tool even though I designed it. Since there's a drain in the floor of every shower I've started using a rotomax zero degree nozzle on my pressure gun at about 1500 to 1800 psi with pretty high heat to zip the history right off walls, pan, and glass. Prespray is high pH and no agitation just multiple fine mistings to attack the bond.
View attachment 75839
View attachment 75838


Totally disagree.

DO NOT COLORSEAL DAILY USE SHOWER STALLS
 

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