emission light on Thermal Wave 2

[scottpeterson83]

Let me start by saying I can't get any answers to this issue by Blue Line. I feel like they gave up on Blue Line now that Saphire Scientific is their new baby!


I have a Thermal Wave 2 that I bought new a year and a half ago. Its a great machine but gets way to hot and the emission light always comes on when we are doing big jobs where the machine is running a long time due to the heat it generates. If I turn the temp. down and run it the light comes on, if I keep them temp up like they said I should and put the wand down for even a minute after it running for 20 minutes or more and pushing water the whole time it over heats. Anyone have this issue before with theirs. I had to replace a heat exchanger already after a year and 2 months of owning it which was just over the warranty. I have my supplier do the oil changes and 400 hour service so I'm not sure why it already went out and cost me $1800. Could this be related to the emission light constantly coming on?

 

[Jim Martin]

I am going to assume that the engine is what you are talking about getting really hot.....

when you first turn on the key to start it..can you here both the fans come on before you start it........

 

[joe harper]

Scott,

I believe the T-WAVE II has a "helicoil"....Preheater....?

When the HX was changed the may not have fill the radiator to capacity...

The heli-coil may NEED to be "BurPeD"....You may have an AIR POCKET... :idea:

While your coolant level may read FULL ...while cool...
When you get to operating temps...you are ACTUALLY LOW on fluid... :shock:
This condition can cause the sensor to alert..& even allow unit to overheat...!

"If it is the same as a Pro Chem...?"
Just "CRACK" the SQUARE nut on top of the heli-coil...Then start the UNIT & allow
any "AIR" that is in the cooling system to PURGE...any unwanted AIR in the system...!

"VERY similar to bleeding a brake line... :idea:
After air is purged...fluid should bleed out of the HELI-COIL....
At that point the helicoil is FULL of coolant...!!!!

Lock down the bleeder valve...& FILL radiator to MAX..fluid level... 8)

ps You should do this procedure...even if it is NOT the problem.... :!:

pss The problem is probally as SIMPLE as "CLOGGED" screens on the unit...CLEAN them
out..!!!! Also check that the FILTER SCREEN located in the bottom of the WATER BOX
is NOT clogged... :idea: This will cause the unit to SPIKE & overheat... :shock:

 

[FB19087]

Could this be related to the emission light constantly coming on?

Who knows until you establish why the MIL light is on. The last fault should be stored. There should be a terminal where you can put a jumper wire and the MIL will blink giving you the fault code.

is the engine the vortec 1.6l?

 

[GeneMiller]

if the engine timing is off slight it can cause it to run hot also check the plumbing to make sure it is correct. turn the temp gauge down and watch the psi , it should drop if the bypass is working correctly.

gene

 

[Giorgio]

the Zeems EFI on my ThermalWave 5m will throw blink codes to help diagnose problems.

Not sure what a solid light means.

What type of EFI controller does the ThermalWave II have?

Btw, when I switched to full synthetic in my 5m it lowered the operating temperature by 10 degrees

 

[Jimbo]

I think you might want to sell that unit before it gives you more trouble, Scott!


5k cash?

 

[Jim Martin]

mine cut out on me half way threw a job today....I got to the machine and I could here the HX boiling..turned it back on and it ran for a few seconds and then kept cutting out...took the lid off and traced back a few wires and found a inline fuse had blown on the 2 cooling fans...I replaced the fuse and it kept blowing out...so in order to get the job done I just jumped out the fuse and finished it....

long story short..what I found out is that the wiring on the cooling fans is not the right type and is not caring the amperage very well...and one little drag on one of those fans and with the amperage already peaked out then it blows the 30 amp fuse....and from there it just builds more and more heat till it just shuts down.....I think the fan that is giving me problems is on the bottom...that fan is not needed and is totally use less..so I just un-plugged it...so far the machine is running back to normal again...and the amps have dropped some....
I had codes flashing all over the place but they were just indicating the machine got to hot....

 

[Jovany06]

the Zeems EFI on my ThermalWave 5m will throw blink codes to help diagnose problems.

Not sure what a solid light means.

What type of EFI controller does the ThermalWave II have?

Btw, when I switched to full synthetic in my 5m it lowered the operating temperature by 10 degrees

Mine was diing the samething and i had to replace the ecu

 

[Jovany06]

Who knows until you establish why the MIL light is on. The last fault should be stored. There should be a terminal where you can put a jumper wire and the MIL will blink giving you the fault code.

is the engine the vortec 1.6l?

if the engine timing is off slight it can cause it to run hot also check the plumbing to make sure it is correct. turn the temp gauge down and watch the psi , it should drop if the bypass is working correctly.

gene

I believe the thermal wave 2 timing is nt adjustable

 

[Jovany06]

I would like to know how to get codes out of the thermal wave 2. Can an obd scanner be plugged in?

 

[Mikey P]

I would like to know how to get codes out of the thermal wave 2. Can an obd scanner be plugged in?

Is there an outlet?

 

[FB19087]

I would like to know how to get codes out of the thermal wave 2. Can an obd scanner be plugged in?

look up ZEEMS emission codes (assuming zeems efi). You should find the procedure to read the codes/mil