Engine rpm's up and down on my Everest

[GeneMiller]

If it is a fuel problem check to see how much fuel you have left when you have the problem. Maybe the pickup doesn't reach the bottom of the tank. I had a problem on a previous machine which would run funny if the tank was below 1/4 and I parked at an angle. Let us know. Thanks

Gene

 

[joe harper]

Gene,
Your 5M & the Everest are basically the same animal..

My concern with Dan's unit is that it is installed in a Van..He could be creating
some SERIOUS heat in the AMBIENT air in the vechical....(130 degrees & up)...

Does Your 5M..Have a SENSOR, that will shut-down the fuel supply......?

If he carries a lot of additional equipment...? He could restricting any air flow
inside van...! If the fuel in the fuel lines...become "SUPER- HEATED ...This could
TRIGGER the ECU to sense a PROBLEM ....!

If the air to fuel mixture is ALTERED....The computer will try to self-adjust the mixture
Causing the engine rpm to BOG & REV.....Eventually to "SHUT-DOWN"...


JUST A GUESS.....!
Any thoughts..?




Ps..CLEAN YOUR WASTE TANK..."Gene "

 

[GeneMiller]

It's just my opinion but I think the fan should blow out. That way it is pushing the air the same direction as the blower exhaust.
It would keep everthing including the blower belts cooler.
I don't like the air blowing in across the engine because it
pulls the heat into the van. With the larger engines you need to use a roof vent. Take advantage of the heat rising.

To much heat hurts everything. In my van I solved that problem with a large electric radiator fan.

Does Your 5M..Have a SENSOR, that will shut-down the fuel supply......?

The computer turns on the fuel pump for a few seconds and if it doesn't get a signal that the machine is running then it turns it off. It doesn't have a heat sensor that I know of.

I check my machine periodically since I have the computer link and I always test it under a load. I hook the whole spool to my filter box and set the pump to 600 psi with just a little dripple running out.

The ecu's are only rated to 200 degrees. My machine has plenty of air and it will get to 160. The times you are having the problem pay attention to the direction of the wind. If it blows the air back into the machine that is prime for all sorts of problems. Let us know.

Gene

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Harper, I am going to call Prochem Monday and see what they say. And for the heat in the van theory, it just doesn't make sense because the machine is liquid cooled. You could run the machine with all the doors closed if the exhaust was plumbed to go through the bottom of the van etc. I run the machine with the back and side doors open. So there is plenty of air flow not that it matters though. The machine may run fine and the switch could be the problem as I suspect. I did not reset the computer like my supplier told me too. Actually they said run it, and if it gives you any problems reset the computer. Prochem told them to reset the computer for the other guy with the Everest having the same exact problem as me. He has not had any problems since then. Hopefully I will not. And like I said earlier, the previous switch was caked with gummy Viper Venom. That couldn't be good for the switch. Even though the switch was replaced the computer will store how the machine runs and it must be reset. I am just going to have to use the van and see what happens. I will ask Prochem if the switch is not the problem, then what would cause the machine to run eratic. The machine itself may be overheating, but if that was the case the machine would just shut down which it never has and the service engine light does not come on. I have three houses to clean tommorow. I really don't want to use the Everest because I have to drive kinda far to get to them, but I guess I will have to to see how it runs.

 

[joe harper]

Dan,

You KEEP saying that your unit is LIQUID cooled.... :roll:....."Yes it is"...

But what do you think...That FAN on the front of your engine is DOING... :?:

 

[GeneMiller]

Dan,

You KEEP saying that your unit is LIQUID cooled.... :roll:....."Yes it is"...

But what do you think...That FAN on the front of your engine is DOING... :?:
Dan,

You KEEP saying that your unit is LIQUID cooled.... :roll:....."Yes it is"...

But what do you think...That FAN on the front of your engine is DOING... :?:

I kept waiting for you to say it. I figured it would come better from you then me

Gene

 

[joe harper]

Good Cop...Bad Cop...

Dan also SAYS ..."My SUPPLIER TOLD ME.." I sure HOPE he is talking to a DISTRIBUTER.. :?:


Dan, did get a GOOD deal on the Unit.... :!:

I just hope his SUPPLIER is a Certified Pro Chem mechanic... :? And not a "Parts Changer"

THAT COULD GET EXPENSIVE... :roll:



PS The Warranty "REQUIRES" a Certified Tech...To perform ALL service....

 

[Able 1]

Have you called Chuck Coffee at Prochem.. The guy knows his shit and has helped me out from time to time when the local disty's were just scratching there heads, and billing me as they were doing so. One call to him got me up and running.

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Yes my supplier is a distributor for Prochem and certified mechanics. And yes you were right about the doors needing to be open as I have always done. That is good to know though. I took the machine in this morning and ran it for three hours with no problem whatsoever, but yesterday the machine started acting up so this time I recorded it in my phone and let my supplier listen to it, and they said yep I can hear it reving up and down. Friday I had to stop halfway through a tile job to get my other machine. The other guy with the same problem I am having had to replace the ground wire and the switch. Today Prochem said replace the ground wire. All I can do is run it. I think this is going to get me fixed.

 

[joe harper]

Thats Great Dan,

The Everest is a good machine...It is usually something simple...

I do feel for you...there is nothing MORE embarrising than to breakdown on a job..!


After it runs for a couple of jobs....You will REGAIN you confidence in the Everest..

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Ok, I am a little nervouse now. The other guy in my area with the Everest with the same problem as me that replaced his switch and ground wire is still having problems with his machine. Honestly I have only been running the machine on low unless I am cleaning tile and then I run it on medium or high. His machine starts trying to shut down on medium due to overheating. When he hears it cutting in and out, he will crack open the flow simulator and let water bypass and this will cool it down and then it will run fine. Why is the machine overheating? The orifice and screen has been cleaned. What else should I look for? I already now my machine will likely do the same thing.

 

[joe harper]

Dan, Stay here with me just a minute...And answer some questions...

How long does take to over heat ?

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Well before I would run the machine on low for say 1 hour and then go switch it to medium and the temp would jump so fast that it started shutting down within a couple minutes. I would say 20 to 30 minutes. My machine may be fine. The weird thing is we ran the machine at my suppliers for 2 hours on medium, high, and low and simulated real cleaning and the machine ran fine. Before leaving that day they replaced the ground wire and the machine has run fine ever since then.

 

[joe harper]

So your machine is running fine?

Are just wondering if you will have the same problem?

 

[daniel@procarpet]

I will keep you posted. I am just nervous is all. Atleast I know I can crack open the flow simulator and it will run good if it does start to overheat.

 

[joe harper]

Dan,

Tell your freind to disconnect short hose that dumps the hot water from the Water Box
into the waste tank.

If he has any blockage in that line...It will cause the sensor to shut down the unit if the
Water in the WATER BOX exceeds 180 degrees...

Sometimes the line is clear...But the brass fitting going to the water box is clogged....
This is common for guys that run POWERED detergents....LOSE the POWDERS.!!!!

This is why the machine will cool down...When he uses the temp. relief valve...It is dumping
the overheated water into the Waste Tank...bypassing the Water Box. :idea:

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Harper, if the machine is last step chemical injection then how can detergent get into the water box? Even when I prime my machine I take the prime hose and stick it in the vacuum slot to prime the chemical pump. Just curious. :?

 

[joe harper]

I know it is Last step....And I wasn't Talking about soap in the water box...

I was talking about a possible blockage from water impurities,such as hard water or debre..

If he hooks up to a clients water hose..? He can pick-up debre fom inside their hose..

You stated that he can open the thermal relief valve and cool the machine...All the Valve does is release the hot water into the vac tube...Thus allowing cooler water to enter the
water box. Which in turn cools the over-all water temps...This is how the machine maintains
the temp, that you desire...

Either a temp sensor is sticking..or the water box out flow is restricted...and cannot release
enough hot water to maintain the temp in the water box below 180 degrees..

My dislike of POWERS is a personal experiance..I just have a much better result with liquids..
You do Know...they make LIQUID SLURRY..right ?

WE pre-spray & AGGITATE....I feel emulserfiers..leave too much residue..

 

[daniel@procarpet]

For atleast 2 years I was a prespray, agitate and rinse with plain water guy myself. Now I am a firm believer in running some type of detergent simply because it rinses the prespray better. The detergent softens the water and leaves less residue. Everyone has their opinion though, but I can say with the heat our machines make running a detergent and using less prespray just makes sense. I tried liquid slurry several times and did not like it. It was too soapy for me and didn't have the same qualities as the powder. I was mixing 16 oz in my 5 gallon jug. Maybe I should have cut back to 8 oz. For the dry slurry, I mix about 1 to 1.5 cups and meter at 2 and it cleans good and doesn't leave any residiue behind or atleast the carpets are soft and fluffy. I really don't think the detergent makes all that much difference as long as the ph is not too high. I feel I need just a small amount in the water. I even cleaned a few houses without any detergent when I first started running the Everest because I needed a new chem metering valve. I could tell a big difference. The water did not feel as heavy. If you are prespraying and agitating then you are no doubt getting good results. I still think if you used just a samll amount of detergent, the carpet would clean easier and the prespray would rinse better as well.

By the way I am using Axiom because I have a 5 gallon bucket full. They all clean good. Just cut the dilution in half.

 

[joe harper]

Dan,

Here is a little "TID-BIT" for you....

I think you will love this little secret...Give it one 5 gal metering jug.."TRY"

Add i cup of ULTRA DOWNEY fabric softner to 5 gal jug..meter @ 4.....


Here is some of the positives...

Acts as a defoamer
softens the water
cleans all residue from the entire pressure system
lubricates all rubber & teflon parts (o-rings) ect..
keeps all filters & screens clean of residues
leaves all fabric's soft to the touch
very pleasent smell...the ladies will percieve carpets are cleaner..(laundry clean)
constantly deodorizes your hoses,waste tank, & van

Give it a TRY...you will get a great response from the ladies. :!: :!: :!:

 

[daniel@procarpet]

I will give it a try. I like the concept. A guy here who is definetely an apartment hack uses tide laundry detergent and no prespray. Do you think I could add 1 cup of fs and 1 cup of slurry?

 

[joe harper]

No..

It will break-down the slurry....I think you will be SURPRISED...It acts as a WETTING AGENT.

With this process you are cleaning @ a LOW-RESIDUE...cleaner... :wink:



Ps You can go with a little more DOWNEY...just make sure you are metering @ 4...


I learned this from an OLD Stanley Steemer guy...The used STA-PUFF fabric softner.."PINK"
Only use the Ultra-Downy product. :!: Other brands are not as concentrated & will seperate.

 

[Able 1]

Dan,

Here is a little "TID-BIT" for you....

I think you will love this little secret...Give it one 5 gal metering jug.."TRY"

Add i cup of ULTRA DOWNEY fabric softner to 5 gal jug..meter @ 4.....


Here is some of the positives...

Acts as a defoamer
softens the water
cleans all residue from the entire pressure system
lubricates all rubber & teflon parts (o-rings) ect..
keeps all filters & screens clean of residues
leaves all fabric's soft to the touch
very pleasent smell...the ladies will percieve carpets are cleaner..(laundry clean)
constantly deodorizes your hoses,waste tank, & van

Give it a TRY...you will get a great response from the ladies. :!: :!: :!:

Really? Sounds good... How long have you been running this way? I'll give it a shot, thanks!

 

[joe harper]

10 years....

Not so much anymore....A lot of our NEW cleints...want NO smell at all... :!:


If some of you guys run HEAVY powders... :?:
I would SUGGEST..that you run at least 2.5 gal of this mix..PRIOR to running on your 1st job.

Run your CHEM METERS..Wide open for 2.5 gal...With the FITTINGs OFF your solution LINES..

The DOWNEY will CLEAN the chemical DEPOSITS from the INSIDE of your sol. lines.... :!:
Also check your SCREENS... This is just a precaution....To make sure you wand jets don't
get clogged on-site...

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Joe, I just want to bring you up to date on my technical issue. I called prochem this morning and explained my problem. We both agreed that the problem was fuel related. I asked if they had a problem with the fuel lines overheating and he said yes but to resolve that issue they now have a recirculating system or a return fuel line. The return line is suppossed to go back to the fuel tank or filler neck. My machine has the return line going back to the supply line or just a big loop. The other guy having the same problem as me has his fuel lines run the same way. The fuel lines are getting too hot, but if the return line is run to the tank and not the supply line the van doesn't need to be ventillated with a fan. The doors just need to be opened. A box truck may be different though. Now if I placed a blower and directed it at the fuel lines it may keep them from overheating, but that is not solving the root problem. Another guy that has an Everest here had his fuel lines run correctly and his machine has never had an issue.

 

[joe harper]

Dan,

It should not be very expensive to have the fuel line re-routed...

Understand that this problem(super-heating of fuel,i.e. causing vapor lock) will go
away when the ambient tempature drops...

Here is a couple of solutions until you have the fuel line re-routed...

1. The fan on the fuel line & machine..
2. Also you can also wrap the fuel line with aluminum foil tape.."used on AC ductboard"
3. Or the in-line fuel cooler...that I PM you the photo of...(Moroso fuel can)




Ps Glad you liked the fabric sofner tip..."I does make the entire home smell GREAT!!"