Float level switch

[boazcan]

This is off the AT waste tank. The lower float to activate the pump out. I had to replace it last year because the switch was not working. This is the number on the switch with pictures of it.

http://www.google.com/search?gcx=c&q=v7 ... tweApNDjDg

These are pictures of the actual switch with the "magnet" piece added on to the level. I think that add on piece to level is causing it wear prematurely because of the weight of the magnets. Is this similar to what any one has seen when they take it apart to replace.

Should just buy a couple and keep around to change out when necessary? Or I was thinking of buying one smaller more powerful magnet to keep the weight down so that it doesn't wear the guts of the switch out.

Anyone play with these before? I am not buying any more $180 float assemblies.

 

[Jim Martin]

that is nothing but a simple micro switch that you can find just about any where.....

does that thing sit in a housing .....is the hole that they screw into the tank a 1 1/4....

if they are you are much better off with these...type...

http://www.harwil.com/products/level-sw ... ent/l21n-2

more reliable and much cheaper....

 

[boazcan]

10-4. That switch is from this

this was the original from AT. Not sure what the one is in there now from interlink, don't think it is the same brand though. The switch is the only thing that is bad on it. The level presses a small white knob to activate. It gets stuck or doesn't engage. Seems to just wear out over time. Maybe from the moisture/humidity or temperature in there.

The switch is available online, I just have to keep the original level with the magnets on it.

Thanks Jim.

 

[Jim Martin]

1-800-562-2447....

that is there number..they will hook you up with what you need.....

you can buy the whole thing or just the base with the switch..or just the float with the magnet in it....

 

[ACE]

The one Jim is showing you WILL ALSO FAIL. It's just a matter of time.

If you never want to fook with that switch again, get a float switch for a sub-pump, cut off the outlet and feed it out the hole for you switch. I just drilled a hole in my failed switch (just like Jim's) pushed the cord in then filled the gap with RTV silicone.

like this:

 

[rwcarpet]

The one Jim is showing you WILL ALSO FAIL. It's just a matter of time.

If you never want to fook with that switch again, get a float switch for a sub-pump, cut off the outlet and feed it out the hole for you switch. I just drilled a hole in my failed switch (just like Jim's) pushed the cord in then filled the gap with RTV silicone.

like this:

I agree......just replace with a simple sump pump float ball.

 

[GeneMiller]

i've been using the halwin float in my water box for 4 years. the water is around 180 and it still works fine.
never tried the cheaper one though.
gene

 

[boazcan]

I tried my local grainger store. They have a couple china knockoffs that I didn't want to try. I ordered two new switches from harwil. $13 ea + shipping. Much better than 2 new float assemblies. Plus they have a 1 year warranty on the switch.

Thanks again Jim.

 

[clean image]

I have 2 Prochem PO with same
The switch probably fine, you have to reconfigure the lever, as it dosnt apply enough pressure to active switch
I also have changed to a more reliable system