Lee Stockwell
FOJL
Encap for us always works best when fully DRY after hwe.
Has anyone ever cleaned the entrances at a Walmart?
- Thread starter BIG WOOD
- Start date
My concern was it being heavily soiled again with the heavy traffic 24hrs later
Lee Stockwell
FOJL
Heavy traffic will be an ongoing reality. You removed perhaps 1000 days of it already.
Now you can encap the current few days of traffic with outstanding results, that will starkly impede the recurring soiling.
Now you can encap the current few days of traffic with outstanding results, that will starkly impede the recurring soiling.
encapman
Member
Hi Matt,
OK here's a rundown on a couple of products that could help you nail down the second step.
Encap-Clean DS2 would be an excellent choice. It's loaded with encap polymer. And it cuts through heavy soil exceptionally well. http://www.excellent-supply.com//Re...tion-Carpet-Cleaning-Products-Encap_p_58.html A few other manufacturers also have some good encap offerings.
Encap-HydrOx is a hydrogen peroxide encap detergent with a high concentration of hydrogen peroxide. It also has a very acidic base (pH is 3.5 in concentrate). It does a terrific job of knocking down a wide range of discoloring conditions. I've seen it tackle brownish wicking situations extremely well. http://www.excellent-supply.com//Re...tion-Carpet-Cleaning-Products-Encap_p_63.html
MicroBeast bonnets are the bomb for commercial glue down carpet. They have sufficient scrubbing ability. And the microfiber fabric pulls up large amounts of soil. They also rinse out fairly easily. http://www.excellent-supply.com//MicroBeast-19-inch-Microfiber-Scrub-Bonnet_p_904.html
encapman
Member
Lee is correct. You moved a mountain already. You took out a ton of soil with the first step. With the second step you can bring the carpet together and "polish it off" so to speak. A good follow-up encap cleaning using very low moisture can really help to pull it all together. It gives the carpet a nice visual pop. The overall results can be pretty dramatic.
Kellie Hiler
Member
Matt....I would've definitely come and helped you with the job. And hour and a half drive is nothing to me and I usually only sleep about 3 hours a night anyway as I've still not adjusted to a normal sleep/work schedule yet...
But in the future....if you need help with something and or want to try out some of our stuff...call me!
But in the future....if you need help with something and or want to try out some of our stuff...call me!I already have some of those bonnets. So If I get a call to come back to freshen it up, I'll order some of that Encap-Hydrox from you
encapman
Member
OK - and please feel free to give us a call too. I or any of our folks here can help answer questions you may have.That's what we're here for.
When it comes to commercial carpet, we've got OCCD!
When it comes to commercial carpet, we've got OCCD!
Old Coastie
Supportive Member
Matt, just to chime in here, I would suggest the DS2 or Punch to whallop the tracked-in stuff. Hydrox is outstanding for cleaning up smells, peepee (that's so Rico can inderstand), drink spills and food stains, but is not as strong an emulsifier as the other two.
They also leave a dose of protectant behind, which helps on your next go 'round.
They also leave a dose of protectant behind, which helps on your next go 'round.
Mikey P
Administrator
and don't be afraid to Pre Spritz some straight ACE Brand Industrial Ammonia on real greasy areas like kitchen entries..
In Australia we have a certain brand of ammonia protein spotter called "Sensation". its a bit infamous locallu.
Its rather strong at 4% and has nearly 10% Butyl solvebts.
I love it hammered carpets. Commercials, rental olefins its great.
Like Mikey suggests, hit these with ammonia bombs first up.
Shit i have even dusolved some flex in it to move.
Its rather strong at 4% and has nearly 10% Butyl solvebts.
I love it hammered carpets. Commercials, rental olefins its great.
Like Mikey suggests, hit these with ammonia bombs first up.
Shit i have even dusolved some flex in it to move.
I might go back and spray ammonia everywhere and tell them I won't rinse it out until I get payed.
Today is 30days, and I might get a check, but the chances are slim. That stupid giant corporation is probably on a 90day pay schedule
shadygrady
Member
I toadaso.
SamIam
Member
Just be patient Matt get paid then never go back!
SamIam
Member
Took me almost 60 days to get paid for a 10pm $165 Cinemark job.
After we billed them it wasn't submitted so we resent it.
They replied we don't pay work orders we need to be invoiced!
I sent them this!
After we billed them it wasn't submitted so we resent it.
They replied we don't pay work orders we need to be invoiced!
I sent them this!
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SamIam
Member
Ps theatre carpet is the worst.
Bob Pruitt
Member
Our invoices are 30 days net... After 30 days additional handling fee of - whatever 10 % of the invoice will be added monthly.
I sometimes write on an invoice - save 10$ if mailed within 10 days.
I hate waiting to be paid.
I sometimes write on an invoice - save 10$ if mailed within 10 days.
I hate waiting to be paid.
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Lee Stockwell
FOJL
666. Lol
SamIam
Member
I hope they laughed to.
Bob Pruitt
Member
We did a lot of movie theatre tile cleaning in Ventura. All that butter flavored oil goo all over the back where they prepare the popcorn and cokes... pretty nasty.
Cleanworks
Moderator
At first I thought you said, "Butler" flavored oil.
@Bryce CView attachment 15711 View attachment 15712 View attachment 15713 View attachment 15714 View attachment 15715 Sorry after I prevacced,
I scrubbed with a red pad. I was gonna scrub with a green pad, but that stupid huge fan above that kept blowing down on the carpet was making my pre spray dry to soon, and I was worried that the green pad would overheat. In other words, the air movement in there was fighting me. There were a few places I couldn't let it dwell long enough, worried that it would dry before I HWE
On the first pic, it's after I HWE and spots were wicking like hell right after. So I went back and did just wet back passes and dry passes, then I went over it with my Green/white bonnet with some encap juice.
So the first and second pic was during the cleaning and after it was done on one side, and the 3rd and 4th is the same way on the other side
After I was done with the whole side, I Encapped the whole area, and it didn't look much better. If they're unhappy with it, I'll either rent a Cimex or...I'll let you guys tell me which route to take.
On the second side, I did the same thing, only I didn't do any post bonnneting, because of the results from the first side.
When I got to the door on the second side, I was so tired and wore out and the dirt was not coming out. So I cranked up my psi to 750 and it blew the mud out. I probably looks like sh** right now after It dried, but I was so pissed and tired I didn't care. I was gonna look like sh** if I didn't crank up the psi, so what's the difference.
It took a lot longer than I wanted, because I couldn't get my Mach15 to get a good connection, so I had to use my little prochem quad, which took ALOT longer to do
I planned on this job taking 4hrs, so I priced it at $400.
It took me 6hrs, and more energy than I wanted. I HATE UNDERPRICING JOBS!!!!
I felt like an 18year old kid who had a crappy boss sending him on late night jobs like this, only getting paid $8/hr (my job when I worked for someone else in '98)
But the last few photos are of how it looked after everything was exhausted.
This is a good thread to learn on which jobs to take and which ones not to take. This was 8years ago and I don't know if I would've taken this job, had my wife's aunt not have been the one to ask me (store manager). The lady is one of the good relatives that you can't say no to. But with that aside, if I was hungry for work, I foolishly would've taken this job anyway.
The bad thing about taking these jobs is both you and your machine is wore out after doing them and you can't focus on your main customers that your building your business model for
Also, keep in mind that a 15" wand like mine at the time (mach15) was too wide to get a solid connection on the uneven floor. A 15" wand should never be the main wand of choice for that reason. So 12-14" is the sweet spot. I used the prochem quad that day and it took extra time because the quad is only 11", but it had a huge performance of extraction, which met the goal of cleaning it.
As for the inline filters: This is one reason I'll never use a paint filter again. they get clogged up too easily even if you vacuum the carpet before you clean it. It happened several jobs. And if you read everything I said, it still went into my tank. So why suffer vacuum loss when you have to rinse out the tank anyway. Just get a good basket filter on your tm/machine in the future.
Mikey P
Administrator
I need to check my in tank filter today...
Jim Pemberton
MB Exclusive.
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 12,346
- Name
- Jim Pemberton
A great deal of wisdom and veteran experience packed into this.
Re-read that a couple of times Bryce....
bob vawter
Grassy Knoller
Ahh Matt.....of all the places on our whole planet Earth.....the entrance to a Walmart would be the very very LAST PLACE I would lay down any kinna trip and fall hazard.....real or percieved!
Do I gotta tell you everything?
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What kind of prescriptions were you on 8 years ago?
Bryce C
DFW
This is great. I'm halfway thru reading the thread and it's gold. Thank you so much Matt!
I read some about the use of paint filters on the inline filter to the recovery tank. Your advise makes sense. Keep it simple and effective.
Hadn't thought about the width of a wand on uneven floors. Yikes. I experienced a small form of that already not balancing Mike's hard surface wand well with my weak portable and getting puddles. Something I'll pay attention to with all my equipment in more environments moving forward. Nice to know that even with a powerful tm to keep a wand at 14" max. Brilliant.
Bryce C
DFW
Will do Jim. You can count on it.
