Help with hardwood floor ( screen and finish ).

ACE

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One of my best customers has two indoor mastiffs. She has us out every 3-6 mo to clean the carpet and upholstery. She has also been using this local hack to “refinish” her hardwood 2-3 time a year. He gives it a quick scrub then applys 2 coats of Sams club floor finish. I have avoided badmouthing him because she seemed happy with the results up tell now. She is now dissatisfied with the appearance because there is 20 coats with deep scratches is some areas and down almost too bare wood in other areas.

My idea is to screen it down and apply a couple coats of oil based polyurethane which is much more durable. My question is will the oil base polyurethane adhere to the cheep acrylic finish?
 

Dolly Llama

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ACE said:
My idea is to screen it down and apply a couple coats of oil based polyurethane which is much more durable. My question is will the oil base polyurethane adhere to the cheep acrylic finish?

do it right and re-finish the floor
drum sander, finish sander, poly
(that's if it's "solid" hardwood and not the engineered products with a veneer wood top)

it's not a cheap or fast process ...$4 to $7+ sf around here.

if there's no wood stain on the wood under the finish and just natural wood, you could probably handle a sand and poly re-finish job yourself.
if she wants a stain applied to make the floors darker and then poly, it's much more difficult .
cause much more detail will be needed in the finish sanding .
Just poly over deep scratches or sander scratches won't show .
Put stain on them first, and they'll stick out like a sore thumb

use poly for "floors" (more durable than "regular" poly's)
I'd also suggest she choose satin sheen .....cause it will show less scratches than gloss or semi-gloss down the road with dog toenail traffic



..L.T.A.
 

ACE

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:roll: Yes Larry that would Be the best ( and most expensive) way to restore the hardwood. Is all I want to is help a good customer out without running up a big bill. I sure as hell am not going to try to run a drum sander for the first time at a good customers house. The house is on the market and it just needs to look presentable.

MY QUESTION IS: WILL OIL BASED POLY ADHERE TO ACRYLIC FLOOR FINISH WITHOUT ISSUE?
:?: :?: :?:
 

Ron Werner

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if its only going on the market and they don't want to spend the money to do it right, just use the hack again. They aren't looking for a long term solution, only enough to let someone else buy the problem.
 

Dolly Llama

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ACE said:
MY QUESTION IS: WILL OIL BASED POLY ADHERE TO ACRYLIC FLOOR FINISH WITHOUT ISSUE?
:?: :?: :?:


not sure...i doubt it though...and i wouldn't do it

reason being ....you can use water base paints over oil paints, but not the other way around .
they "breath" different
i think you might be creating a mess for the new owners


I'd do what Ron suggested


maybe clean and then spray-buff/burnish with a hi-speed buffer????


..l.T.A.
 

steve frasier

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My question is will the oil base polyurethane adhere to the cheep acrylic finish?

from what I know about doing gym floors, you can go from oil base to water base but you can't go from water to oil or back to oil

I would rent a square sander and go through a complete grit series of screens then coat it with the same stuff
 
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if your going to screen the floor your basically etching the floor so the finish can bond to. I have achieved nice results using the Tykote system, a sandless process of renewing the finish.Screening the floor you need to use 150 grit then a 180 grit plus vacuum in between to recover the dust,with the Basic Coating process your elimaniating the screening process and using a bonding agent to bond to the water based finish to the clients desire of finish from matte to high gloss. I found it very easy to apply the finish using the rolling method,the T-bar method requires more experience.
 

floorguy

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The only thing i would worry about.....is the fact he was using a VCT type of coating vs a wood floor coating.....


now it may not be a problem....but its been whats kept me out of doing wood floor clean and refinishes....dunno what to put on them thats good.....and i sure as hell aint gonna put a VCT floor finish
 

FLYERMAN

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To answer your question: NO! Not even long enough to sell the house. Lots of guys put VCT finish on wood floors. Just wet screen it with like an 80 grit then 120 then reapply some finish but use a water base finish unless you strip off ALL of the old stuff.
 
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call tony 505-345-6977 he has a product called slam dunk from ultra chem labs. great stuff. screen and 4 coats of finish.
 

ACE

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Thanks for the replys.

I guess I'll just cleaning and burnish or scrub and recoat. I should know by now It don't pay to be a hero.
 
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I guess were all HACKS when it comes to hardwood. My guy spent 4 days doing a 12x15 living room and a small closet. Two days to sand. He sealed, filed the gaps in, resanded, sealed again, and urethane. No stain. The floors looked like glass just from the sanding. He worked 8-5 with an hour lunch break the first three days. I guess he is the Werner of hardwood. The results were incredible and the price of 700 was even better which included installing new quarter round.
 

ACE

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danielc said:
I guess were all HACKS when it comes to hardwood. My guy spent 4 days doing a 12x15 living room and a small closet. Two days to sand. He sealed, filed the gaps in, resanded, sealed again, and urethane. No stain. The floors looked like glass just from the sanding. He worked 8-5 with an hour lunch break the first three days. I guess he is the Werner of hardwood. The results were incredible and the price of 700 was even better which included installing new quarter round.

= $233.33 Per Day. Like I said, it don't pay to be a hero !gotcha! . I'm done with the take one for the team crap.
 
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ACE said:
danielc said:
I guess were all HACKS when it comes to hardwood. My guy spent 4 days doing a 12x15 living room and a small closet. Two days to sand. He sealed, filed the gaps in, resanded, sealed again, and urethane. No stain. The floors looked like glass just from the sanding. He worked 8-5 with an hour lunch break the first three days. I guess he is the Werner of hardwood. The results were incredible and the price of 700 was even better which included installing new quarter round.

= $233.33 Per Day. Like I said, it don't pay to be a hero !gotcha! . I'm done with the take one for the team crap.

He provided all the materials.

Forget the price. He could have charged more. The important thing to remember is hardwood is not something you are going to do right in a few hours or even a day. The job can be hacked out or done right. The gaps need to be filled in, repairs made, several grits of sanding, the area near baseboard has to be done by hand with small orbital sander. I don't know why he sealed then resanded then resealed the floor. All I can say is he has 40 years experience and is the best around. The odd thing is he is retired and only does a few jobs every month.

Same thing with painting. I hired a good painter. I had no idea how much work was involved. He spent two days prepping.

He didn't use a shred of that blue painters tape. He is just good and knows what he is doing.
 

ACE

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danielc said:
Forget the price.

Forget the price just do it right? I have done way too much of that my friend. Now-a-days, I would prefer to stay at home and break even or lose money 8) .
 

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