steve g
Member
the title says it all, how are you guys drying drywall that has visqueen moisture barrier behind it, in all the new homes they are putting this stuff in them.
how are you guys drying sheetrock with plastic behind it??
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Craig Lindquist
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There are several ways.
Of course the firat question is what is the wall covering? Can the moisture be pulled through the front.
If the wall covering is a vapor barrier then I would look behing the baseboard, many times the wall covering does not extend to the base of the wall and pulling the baseboard is enough.
Next I would look at the bottom of the wall and the floor, can I pull it straight down by creating enough vapor pressure in the wall with heat of high static pressure from air movers.
Another option is to use an injectidry wall drying kit. Place the "needles in the sheetrock so the air flows between the drywall and the plastic.
The next option and a very common one is to perforate or scrape the wall covering to allow it to breathe.
Of course the firat question is what is the wall covering? Can the moisture be pulled through the front.
If the wall covering is a vapor barrier then I would look behing the baseboard, many times the wall covering does not extend to the base of the wall and pulling the baseboard is enough.
Next I would look at the bottom of the wall and the floor, can I pull it straight down by creating enough vapor pressure in the wall with heat of high static pressure from air movers.
Another option is to use an injectidry wall drying kit. Place the "needles in the sheetrock so the air flows between the drywall and the plastic.
The next option and a very common one is to perforate or scrape the wall covering to allow it to breathe.
Craig Lindquist
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2006
- Messages
- 629
No,
Hot Dry Airflow to the Moisture.
Some investigation will find ways to achieve it.
From an engineering stand point, its not wise to place a vapor barrier between the sheetrock and insulation, during certain times of the year that will have a tendency to promote condensation on the interior of the exterior wall.
In that situation TES would shine. With or without TES I would scrape the wall covering and inject deep with an octi-dry.
Hot Dry Airflow to the Moisture.
Some investigation will find ways to achieve it.
From an engineering stand point, its not wise to place a vapor barrier between the sheetrock and insulation, during certain times of the year that will have a tendency to promote condensation on the interior of the exterior wall.
In that situation TES would shine. With or without TES I would scrape the wall covering and inject deep with an octi-dry.
Craig Lindquist
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2006
- Messages
- 629
Typically you'll find that when a not soo good carpenter or DIYer did the work.The vapor barrier in northern climates should be over the exterior sheathing.
In southern climates there should be no vapor barrier. In a lot of areas down south vapor barriers are against code.
In southern climates there should be no vapor barrier. In a lot of areas down south vapor barriers are against code.
steve g
Member
what I am seeing is insulation, studs, then the vapor barrier is stapled to the studs over the insulation then the drywall is put on, I am mainly dealing with this on painted walls, the problem I have is when you add water to the sheet rock it makes the vapor barrier wanna cling to the sheetrock, which precludes getting any air between the sheet rock and the plastic, in this case where the water has came from above and ran down the wall, IMO I think its pretty tuff to save the wall, what I have been doing on a typical job where the wall is only wet maybe a foot up is, pulling base and pocking holes through the sheet rock through the plastic so the air can get to the insulation behind then the wall normally drys ok with the bottom exposed where the base was
Desk Jockey
Member
Steve we would also do as you do.
We would perforate the plastic, then once dry we will tape metal flue tape to cover the holes.
On those homes that are unfortunate to have a second loss, you just peel away the flue tape and inject dry air or suck if very bad.
On those jobs where water came down from above, you're not talking blown insulation are you?
We will usually remove those just because the blown compacts and becomes tougher to dry and you lose R value.
We would perforate the plastic, then once dry we will tape metal flue tape to cover the holes.
On those homes that are unfortunate to have a second loss, you just peel away the flue tape and inject dry air or suck if very bad.
On those jobs where water came down from above, you're not talking blown insulation are you?
We will usually remove those just because the blown compacts and becomes tougher to dry and you lose R value.
