How much time per job and or day do you HX guys spend...

Mikey P

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..pre heating your TM?

Do you let your Heat Exchange run at full rpm to get your stored water is nice and hot before you start to rinse or do you just turn it on and go and let it TRY and catch up to you


what is your technique?
 

Becker

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I prespray at close to full rpm. Choke the blower a little. By the time I start to rinse I'm close to high temp.

Looking forward to adding my propane heater at the end of April to mid May.
 
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Lee Stockwell
Usually by the time I prespray everything it's pretty hot. Starting at the far point in most houses I'm cleaning a lightly soiled bedroom first.

Thus I'm never "waiting" for heat.


Thanks,
Lee
 

Desk Jockey

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One tech pre vacuums and moves furniture out away from wall, the other run solution hose and connect to unit, start unit run vac hose, attaches hydroforce pre-sprays, then agitates heavily soiled area. Attach wand and clean behind furniture sides them back with assistants help, unit is good and hot by the time you hit any real soiling.
 

Jim Martin

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HX depends on ambient temperatures on how they are going to warm up and how much heat they are going to produce.........here in the summer time...I set everything up and never start the machine until I have to....heats up fast and holds good....
Winter time...I will start it up and pre heat it a bit....takes a little longer sucking in the cold air to hit a good temp...

it will hold 240 in the summer...and once heated up it will hold 230 in the winter..........
 

MerCrewser

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Never have to wait. I put the 1.5 inch dump line on the vac inlet running on low while I set up. I run 15 flow.
 

joe harper

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Doc Holliday said:
One tech pre vacuums and moves furniture out away from wall, the other run solution hose and connect to unit, start unit run vac hose, attaches hydroforce pre-sprays, then agitates heavily soiled area. Attach wand and clean behind furniture sides them back with assistants help, unit is good and hot by the time you hit any real soiling.


DITTO.... :!:

I think you will find that the WATERCOOLED truckmounts HeaT-Up REALLY fast... !gotcha!

AIR-COOLED......notsomuch... :cry:

Jim martin...is also correct... :mrgreen:
 

Johnny

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Start machine about ten minutes before I mix prespray (while vac'ing and moving furn). Mix 2-gal. jugs of hot prespray. Stop machine. Prespray with pimped, (case is only original part) Multi-Sprayer that is faster than an inline. Scrub. Start machine. Rinse with 15-flow Greenhorn. Cool down and stop machine.
 

Walt

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I wanted to be sure. So I set the machine to normal single wand position and blocked off to 12.5 hg. (normally is at 15-16 with wand connected). It was 37 degrees outside. It took just over 10 min to reach 220 and was rising fast.
 
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I'm Rick James
50 minutes a week warming up the TM...

I have a propane heater and it heats up long before I get done pre-spraying the first room..
 

Jim Williams

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I just let it heat up while I prespray the first room and possibly the second like Lee said. No big deal, no time just sitting around waiting.

Once or twice I have started cleaning before the hot water got to my wand and you would be surprised at how good cold water is capable of cleaning.
 

Joel D

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Same here no wait. Start machine and prespray maybe block cuff with something while i spray. I think a lot of the newer hx heat up very fast.(that was one of the things that was supposed to be good about the boxxer so i was told) I have lost heat with higher flow though. Badly in the winter. But yesterday with the warmer temps i saw around 200. If im really moving i might have to slow down if i care about great heat.
 

Art Kelley

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Only the stupidest of dildos would expect their HX machine to clean the worst area of a job immediately upon arrival at the site. If you need the full heat your machine is capable of, just run it ten or fifteen minutes, clean under furniture, talk to the customer, do something. It doesn't take very long to get to max heat. Just remember, you won't end up featured in the monthly Bane Clene Times Digest with a HX unit.
 
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Art Kelley said:
Only the stupidest of dildos would expect their HX machine to clean the worst area of a job immediately upon arrival at the site. If you need the full heat your machine is capable of, just run it ten or fifteen minutes, clean under furniture, talk to the customer, do something. It doesn't take very long to get to max heat. Just remember, you won't end up featured in the monthly Bane Clene Times Digest with a HX unit.


Are you sure about that? Did you see the damage Albert Lazo's Chemdry HX when it blew? !gotcha!
 

Mike Draper

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with my butler and the max HX setup ( blower exchanger) I would not turn the damn thing off all day long in the winter. I would go in and vacuum, measure, bs and whatever and still leave my butler running all day in the winter. Even at that, it still takes a good 10-15 minutes before the blower would create enough friction and heat to make my water anything over 180 ATW. 190 atw was usual winter running temperature with my butler. In the summer when it was 85+ deg it would usually be warm by my first job. I still could not achieve over 200 atw unless I was running my RV360i because that creates tremendous lift and heat in the blower. I would say on average in the winter my butler was idling 30% of the time (1.5 hours a day) just so it would stay warm. ( we have cold ass winters) I'm talking ATW temps because nothing else matters.
 

Walt

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@ 36 degrees. First job 10 min to heat to 220.

@ 65 degrees. Second job. Cooled for 1.5 hours. 4 min to peg the gauge.

Glad I checked. I had no idea it was heating up so fast in the warmer temps. I won't let it warm up so long.
 

SMRBAP

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I have a policy for all trucks to be taken to near full operating temps before they leave. Start them on idle for 1 minute, then full throttle, chock the vac about 50%, bring the pressure to 800 (not what we clean at but I have a reason for this), then we connect a bleeder hose and burp off a little solution into the vac line until it gets to about 200 ATM. ON super cold days we'll leave the whole 150' of soultion line on the reel, and get it hot too.

Solves a few issues - on mega super cold days, your pulling hot lines to the door, gives you a little longer before they freeze.

By the time they have squared away the first walkthough, work auth signed, set up, and presprayed, it's at full operating temps.

Lastly, too many times has a tech set up at the first custy's house, then went to start the TM, dead battery, low oil, a line let's go (why I bring the pressure up to 800), demand pump starts leaking, etc - plus.

Plus by having them do this daily - it's the time when all attention is on the equipment - we are looking for problems, not the case in a driveway.

Do I waste some fuel, is it more time on the TM's, is it more labor paid - YEP, but the pro's have proven to highly outweight those cons long term.
 
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Noble Carpet Cleaners
Exactly 60 sec to get 230 degree water with my Savage propane heater. No need to replace my heat
exchanger.
 

joeynbgky

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Les said it right............. You waste alot of money with an HX. And alot of you guys are pre-spraying with cold water!! thats horrible.. glad i have propane
 

Jim Martin

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joeynbgky said:
Les said it right............. You waste alot of money with an HX. And alot of you guys are pre-spraying with cold water!! thats horrible.. glad i have propane


HX's today heat up fairly quick.....we are not having to fill and pay for propane....so in the end it is almost a wash...

I have yet to see a difference if my pre-spray is hot or cold.....my very first mix of the day cleans just as good as my last one........
 

jimmyolas

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Feb 20, 2008
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i Start the machine when i pull up to a job, go in and measure up , then run hoses. Max time is 20 min before i am cleaning. I have 16 flow and temp maintain at 215 to 220
( i have modified the hg a bit higher) blue wave.
jimmy
Carlsbad Water Damage Restoration
 

SMRBAP

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joeynbgky said:
Les said it right............. You waste alot of money with an HX. And alot of you guys are pre-spraying with cold water!! thats horrible.. glad i have propane


I keep hearing this - where's the $ wasted on a HX? I have had 1 problem with a HX, an original HX in a Avenger 210, had Johns build a new one using better copper, problem permanently solved. Once a year I pull the HX's to clean carbon buildup. I don't even descale b/c we use on board softeners.

8 Years, 6 TM's probably 14000 hrs between them, $600 spent on the only HX part I have purchased, and 8 hrs per year of my own time to clean carbon buildup. Even at a shop rate, that's $3840, so $4440 in 8 years, or an average of $555 a year on my HX's.

What would I have used low end to high end in propane over those 8 years?

I'd have to imagine it'd be in the 5 figure range - or am I nuts?
 

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