Hydrocide Extreme

[Trekguy1701]

I have been using this chemical for the last few months. I thought it was working great because when I would leave the job the urine odors would be COMPLETELY GONE! And some of these carpets had really bad urine odors! I have come to find out that right after it dries the urine odors return immediately! Arrrgh!

I use a truck mounted HWE method for my cleaning.

Is there something I am doing wrong?? I have followed the directions to the letter. I am starting to think that Hydrocide Extreme SUCKS! lol

Thanks for any input you can give!

Andrew

 

[RIP IT]

Andrew, you're never going to 100% fix a Urine problem by just cleaning the face fibres if it's anything more than a very minor spill.

In some instances, if it's severe enough you may have to lift the carpet and clean from both sides, drawing the chemical through carefully to ensure you don't delaminate the carpet. You may also have to replace the damaged section of underlay and possibly treat, clean and seal the concrete slab before relaying everything.

 

[Trekguy1701]

Andrew, you're never going to 100% fix a Urine problem by just cleaning the face fibres if it's anything more than a very minor spill.

In some instances, if it's severe enough you may have to lift the carpet and clean from both sides, drawing the chemical through carefully to ensure you don't delaminate the carpet. You may also have to replace the damaged section of underlay and possibly treat, clean and seal the concrete slab before relaying everything.

I treated this carpet twice. The second time I saturated it with the chemical. I am positive that it got down and into the pad. Then I used my water claw to extract out the chemical after letting it dwell for over ten minutes per the instructions. After which I cleaned the rest of it with my scrub wand.

I have talked to three of my clients and ALL three said that it was great when I left and it was still wet, but as soon as it dried the smell came back as though NOTHING had been treated.

 

[Mikey P]

I bet if the wee were just in the fibers that (any any other product like it) would work.


Unfortunately plenty of the time the urine is in the pad and floor boards. AND THERE AIN'T NO MIRACLE PRODUCT THAT WILL KILL OR ERADICATE THE STENCH ON CONTACT NO MATTER HOW MANY ADJECTIVES THEY PUT IN THE LITERATURE.

To get a grasp of just how much flushing is needed to remove pee pee from a carpet or rug you need to go by a rug plant that hand washes and just watch how long it takes for a urine puddle to be completely flushed out of just a one square foot area. Under a high pressure garden hose it may take over ten minutes in a just a small area to get the water to finally run clear. Gallons and gallons and gallons for just a square foot.


After seeing this you'll stop trying to convince yourself and your clients that a miracle is going to happen with a gallon of water and a water claw.



Watch this video but keep in mind that's hardly any urine at all..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdxkBuSDuxs

 

[SamIam]

wool can absorb a 100x its weight in water I wonder if regular nylon no where near as dense would hold as much as that rug?

Also if there's a 1 foot surface stain its twice as big on the backing! so chances are your missing some of the contamination.

You could always lift carpet,seal subfloor, replace pad, treat carpet, reinstall. Then you might get most of it. OSR from CTI say let dwell 30 minutes.

When I add odorcide to OSR thats a killer combo.

 

[Shawn Abbey]

I agree with Mikey. In my experience, the Hydrocide itself will NOT take care of the odor. No matter how much they promise!

Here's what we do...

1. Saturate the area with an enzyme, and let dwell.
2. Apply Pro's Choice OSR, or Matrix Miracle to the area and let dwell 30 min. according to directions. For heavy urine saturation, saturate the area with an acidic solution (Pro's Choice UPT, All Fiber Rinse, etc), and Water Claw/Extract before applying OSR.
3. Water Claw/Extract using All Fiber Rinse through your truckmount
4. Apply Hydrocide as a leave-in deodorizing and groom into the carpet.

Rip IT has the same procedure we use on extreme cases, but this is the most popular with our Customers. We always prequalify to the Customer that there MAY be some wicking that may need a touch up.

 

[Ron Werner]

what about using a strong acid plus a deodourizer. The goal is to neutralize the ammonia isn't it? Then after that, flush out as much of the urine as possible. Many times the customer doesn't want to pay for that subsfc extraction. Its more like 3 or 4 gallons poured and clawed out. So the best you can do is apply a "deodourizer" and hope for the best.

 

[Trekguy1701]

Thanks for all the info guys!!

Before I posted my problem I came across a couple of the threads from a year or two old. The several people were talking how effective the Quat-a-lot product was and Cobb's Dynacide and Ordor Attack as well. Any thoughts on these products??

 

[Steamin McFadden]

I like to use quat a lot on the heavy problems with a water claw, works better then any thing else I tried.

For milder issues, or if they don't want to pay for water clawing, I just use soils n oils deodorizer as pre spray, hitting the urine spots heavy, that stuff is awesome.

Dynacide works much like hydracide, (but about half the cost) and I like the smell better.

 

[J Scott W]

The first rule of odor elimination is remove the source of the odor. Until the urine is gone from carpet, backing, cushion, sub floors (and who know where else the urine or odors may reside) any other measures will only be temporary. Hydrocide and Hydrocide Extreme will permanently remove odor molecules they contact. But that does not stop new odor molecules from being introduced into the breathing air space.

100% permanent removal is a big job and not all your clients will be willing to pay for this service. It may not be practical if they still have animals in the home. I have written a training manual on how to deal with urine stains, odors and contamination. I am happy to email a free copy to you or anyone else that asks. scottw@bridgewatercorp.net.

 

[ruff]

I like to use quat a lot on the heavy problems with a water claw, works better then any thing else I tried.

I do not see any reason why a quat would do anything to the urine. Like all quats it will kill bacteria etc. and having a very strong masking agent/fragrance will temporarily mask the odor. However, unless there's something that I'm not aware of that it does, it will not remove the urine.

Educate me, please.

 

[Steamin McFadden]

I don't know how it works I just know it works, I was educated on this fact with my first use of the stuff.

Hallway that the dog urine ated over and over again, (was sickening) I droped a couple gallons of quat a lot on it and made it stink so bad my nose hairs curled.

By the time I got set up and went back to water claw it the smell was 100% gone (about 25 minutes) . This lady has had me back twice sence then over the last two years and smell is still completly gone. WHen she calls she tells me how great I am.

 

[Bee Busy]

Pro's Choice OSR with super hot H20 dwelling for over 20 minutes, small water claw extraction followed up with a great deodorizer like Masterblend Skunk Odor Control is a good way for customers on a budget...for the one's that want a guarantee...remove the pad and seal the floor and jute with Kilz then do the rest as mentioned before...or replace it

 

[Larry Cobb]

Thanks for all the info guys!!

Before I posted my problem I came across a couple of the threads from a year or two old. The several people were talking how effective Cobb's Dynacide and Odor Attack were as well. Any thoughts on these products??

The Dynachem Odor Attack is an actual Enzyme, combined with a powder oxidizer.

The synergistic combination does a better job of odor removal,

with reduced chance of color loss from the oxidizer.

The Dynacide is the last step for any room odor.

Larry

 

[Charles Anhalt]

Hoping to try the Dynachem Odor Attack this week with water claw. Customer says it was a one time cat urine episode, so I may try the Urine Prespray, extract and apply the Enzyme Deodorant. Thanks again for being there Larry and family.

 

[Cleanworks]

The first rule of odor elimination is remove the source of the odor. Until the urine is gone from carpet, backing, cushion, sub floors (and who know where else the urine or odors may reside) any other measures will only be temporary. Hydrocide and Hydrocide Extreme will permanently remove odor molecules they contact. But that does not stop new odor molecules from being introduced into the breathing air space.

100% permanent removal is a big job and not all your clients will be willing to pay for this service. It may not be practical if they still have animals in the home. I have written a training manual on how to deal with urine stains, odors and contamination. I am happy to email a free copy to you or anyone else that asks. scottw@bridgewatercorp.net.

Scott sent me his manual on urine deodorization and I have printed it off. I would say even for those of us who have taken courses in odor control, it is a great refresher course. Yes, he promotes his own brand of chemistry but the basic principles are the same no matter what you use. I have to say that I am impressed with some of the products that Scott has described and I will be going to my Bridgepoint retailer to pick up some Pet Zone and Hydrocide. I have used some Prochem products that are similar and would like to see how these compare. Urine odor treatment is one of our strong suits and is quite profitable.

 

[steamron]

If the animals are still in the home, I don't even come close to guaranteeing anything. The needle in the haystack is now a needle in a corn field.

 

[GeneMiller]

I recently tried kill odor plus, plus means nothing but foam. It didn't kill the odor at all for me. I'm still using Odorcide, which hasn't failed me once.

 

[Odorcide Mike]

Appreciate the comments Gene and thank you for supporting Odorcide! Are you a CAP member?

 

[Mikey P]

CAP?

 

[GeneMiller]

Appreciate the comments Gene and thank you for supporting Odorcide! Are you a CAP member?

What's cap ?

 

[CTI Courtney]

It really does depend on the job. Call Todd @ 800-368-1247 tech support he will go over particulars.

 

[Odorcide Mike]

Gene, CAP is our Customer Appreciation Program...when you buy gallons or pints you qualify for free product. Go to our website odorcide.com and click on the CAP link on the left side of the home page to get more details and to sign up.

 

[A.J.]

I tried odercide for the first time last week. They had urine absolutely everywhere. Nothing mega saturated though. With the blacklight I laid 2 gallons throughout the house down in a sprayer and let it sit for 2 days. I know it works on contact but I wanted to see it the new smell kept. 2 days later it still smelled like odercide lol.

Seeing as you couldn't see anything with the naked eye I coulda got away with just leaving it at that i think. Cleaned it anyways...

My only other deodorizing experience was with molecular modifier. I soaked an unbelievably bad and heavy cat piss stain and let it sit for 2 days. The whole place smelled great 2 days later. It stayed smelling great when I checked in weeks later. Molecular Modifier worked a miracle in my opinion. So long as you have the time.

Could anyone tell me if I really need to use pros choice UPT or could I just use my acid rinse? Or If I was a real cheapskate vinegar?

 

[Larry Cobb]

AJ ;
All the _____cides do a good job with counteracting the odor.
However they have little stain removal capability.

We like a combo product with strong Oxidizer + actual Enzyme for the best results for the first step.
Dynacide is only needed usually if the room items have residual odors.

http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index...earch_in_description=1&keyword=DCOA6+or+DCDC1

 

[Mighty Phil]

Agree here with Larry. Locate the source. Soak with a powdered oxidiser dissolved in very hot water - I apply pet zone or equivalent with a watering can. Give it 20mins dwell. Flush with a water claw. Post apply an anti microbial (quat).

A few side notes. Urine is very difficult to flush with water alone as the salts are not water soluble. The odour from urine is caused by the decomposition of the urine itself, by bacteria, and the assosciated off gassing of organic molecules. Quats can kill bacteria for a time, arresting some of the agents that cause odour. But the salts are still present and unstable, releasing odorous compounds. Some acids will help make urine salts soluble, and some bacterial cultures under the right conditions will consume the urine until it's gone - but I have found powdered oxygen to be the most effective. Not only does it sterilise bacteria, but it accelerates the "rusting" process of the salts till a point they have no capacity to off gas.

The post application of an anti microbial, apart from killing any stray bacteria, has the benefit of introducing a pleasant fragrance, to help overcome the psychological affect of the odour, and reset the olfactory system.


Phil M.

 

[GeneMiller]

Agree here with Larry. Locate the source. Soak with a powdered oxidiser dissolved in very hot water - I apply pet zone or equivalent with a watering can. Give it 20mins dwell. Flush with a water claw. Post apply an anti microbial (quat).

A few side notes. Urine is very difficult to flush with water alone as the salts are not water soluble. The odour from urine is caused by the decomposition of the urine itself, by bacteria, and the assosciated off gassing of organic molecules. Quats can kill bacteria for a time, arresting some of the agents that cause odour. But the salts are still present and unstable, releasing odorous compounds. Some acids will help make urine salts soluble, and some bacterial cultures under the right conditions will consume the urine until it's gone - but I have found powdered oxygen to be the most effective. Not only does it sterilise bacteria, but it accelerates the "rusting" process of the salts till a point they have no capacity to off gas.

The post application of an anti microbial, apart from killing any stray bacteria, has the benefit of introducing a pleasant fragrance, to help overcome the psychological affect of the odour, and reset the olfactory system.


Phil M.

I've found peroxide to be superior to a powdered oxidizer because it's zero residue, unless your goal is to leave some behind. No way your going to remove all the cleaning agents. I prefer to leave the carpets as product free as possible.

 

[Total_Rookie]

Harvard Pet urine stain remover. Thank Mark Saiger.

 

[Mighty Phil]

Agree here with Larry. Locate the source. Soak with a powdered oxidiser dissolved in very hot water - I apply pet zone or equivalent with a watering can. Give it 20mins dwell. Flush with a water claw. Post apply an anti microbial (quat).

A few side notes. Urine is very difficult to flush with water alone as the salts are not water soluble. The odour from urine is caused by the decomposition of the urine itself, by bacteria, and the assosciated off gassing of organic molecules. Quats can kill bacteria for a time, arresting some of the agents that cause odour. But the salts are still present and unstable, releasing odorous compounds. Some acids will help make urine salts soluble, and some bacterial cultures under the right conditions will consume the urine until it's gone - but I have found powdered oxygen to be the most effective. Not only does it sterilise bacteria, but it accelerates the "rusting" process of the salts till a point they have no capacity to off gas.

The post application of an anti microbial, apart from killing any stray bacteria, has the benefit of introducing a pleasant fragrance, to help overcome the psychological affect of the odour, and reset the olfactory system.


Phil M.

I've found peroxide to be superior to a powdered oxidizer because it's zero residue, unless your goal is to leave some behind. No way your going to remove all the cleaning agents. I prefer to leave the carpets as product free as possible.

On one particular occasion, I made up a bucket of very hot water, added a touch of neutral detergent, added liquid hydrogen peroxide to make up a 6% solution and slowly added ammonia until it started bubbling. I poured this into the affected urine zone working my way from outside into the centre. Left it 20mins and then water clawed it. 100% success. This way is more expensive, and I believe you still need a detergent to carry the product into the fibre effectively. The powdered oxygen is an all in one oxygen source, water softener and self catalysing with hot water. That's why I prefer it.

Phil M.