I don't like using injection wall units because of how chaotic they look while in use

[dealtimeman]

Anybody have any ideas that will make them less chaotic to use and not look so much like a mess?

 

[FredC]

hack...

and wtf wouldn't you pull the cove base and pop the holes there.............smh

 

[FredC]

but to answer your question, hack, here ya go

http://www.injectidry.com/activeh.htm

and cut the small hoses to a couple easily identifiable varied lengths and bundle them....or buy a few different color tubes and vary the cut by color and throw them in a tub..

no reason to have that cluster**** in the walkway

 

[dealtimeman]

If you come to mikey safest I will tell you why I don't pull the cove. But only if you come.

 

[Jeremy N]

If you come to mikey safest I will tell you why I don't pull the cove. But only if you come.

Yeah, you don't really have to pull the base.

 

[FredC]

no...you don't have to.....

 

[Desk Jockey]

You really need to take my class on wall drying. Its now available online for the small small fee of $8,000.00.

Just click on the tab "Wall Drying 101 for Reeetards".


OK but only cuz I likes ya. Here ya go. Do as we do and not as you do!

I know I know you hate me............get in line it's a long list!

 

[dealtimeman]

Problem with cutting hoses short like that is, then you have to try to guess with bags you will need for which jobs. In other words some bags will have the long hose manifolds and some will have the short manifolds.

I will say I like that injetidry setup better than our inter air for the reason that the whole hose is a manifold instead of trying to branch out 8 or 10 runs from a single foot wide manifold.

 

[Desk Jockey]

That hose is cheap and they usually supply you with too much to begin with. Just cut two or three sizes like Fred mentioned.

If you don't want to buy different colors just lay them out and hit the ends with a little spray paint for fast recognition. We have a "close to the wall size", "a long size" and anything else we cut on the job.

 

[Desk Jockey]

We will also use air scrubbers to put suction on walls that we think that could have some contamination inside. We don't recommend the facilities manager save walls with possible contamination but we are not the mold police. As long as its documented and they sign a "refusal of recommendations" then we will reluctantly dry them. By using the air scrubbers the processed air is filtered though the HEPA filter trapping any spores that could cause you problems in the air space. It's an option when they can't afford the down time for removal and replacement of potentially contaminated drywall.

 

[tmdry]

I know feel bad removing all those walls in the past...

 

[Ralph Pastorelli]

Much rather pull the baseboards and replace that than do a boat load of hole patching and painting unless you like jacking up bills for your gain and listen to the adjuster question charges.

 

[Jeremy N]

Sometimes we drill holes right through the baseboards. It's saves times and money. make money drying, not removing. Get on to the next job.

 

[Ralph Pastorelli]

But you still have to replace the cove base so why not remove it, I think it dries faster when you don't have the rubber barrier of the cove there . Lazy people !

 

[dealtimeman]

In certain situations/settings we pull base. In others if we pulled base or even drilled thru them during operating hours we would get fired in a heart beat.

I would prefer to remove base, the. Drill holes at base level. Only to come back after dry and reinstall base over holes but again, in some places this is not possible without repercussions job wise.

We maintain our water mitigation reputation by doing a lot of small things that maintain a business running with the least possible downtime or demo as possible. Customers like to see order as it gives reassurance in the product or service they are paying for. So for us, we provide a service with very little interruption ( not always possible, but if possible we do) to their business without compromising the structure or any of the safety of the inhabitants of the structure. And we are pretty good at it ( at least we are told)

As you dry clinics, hospitals, schools, some government offices, you will notice a need for this type of service. There are many ways to dry a structure and most of the time ( in commercial drying at least) working with your customer, who is worried about his or her customers, with a plan that is less intrusive by " mitigating the loss", you will earn a reputation as the go to guy to dry in certain circumstances and settings.

As always, if you imagine it was your house or your business and you dry it, imagining all aspects involved with the job, you will do an overall better job and the customer will be very satisfied and comfortable throughout the job.

 

[FredC]

I guess that is one way to spin it.........

 

[Desk Jockey]

But you still have to replace the cove base so why not remove it, I think it dries faster when you don't have the rubber barrier of the cove there . Lazy people !

We will do what ever is best for the situation. Often its removing base, in this job we drilled through it and the hospitals ztaff removed and replced it as we confirmed it dry. It kept our crews drilling and drying so we could cover the large area we had affected. We do mitigation only no repairs or replacement to add to a bill. We wil also leave vinyl cove base inplace when drying walls with wall paper.

It been our experience that drying walls when the base is removed it can become tattered and torn fron the turbulence created from the airmovers. We had few issues when leaving it in tact.
m

 

[Desk Jockey]

Yea we've did one of the properties that Michael covers for WD in our area and that is the protocol for drying. Remove no base, do not get intrusive and don't mention the word M O L D.

 

[kmdineen]

I hear yeah about the potential of tattering some wallcovering with the air movers after removing the cove molding. But compared tothe cost of labor to set up those Injectidrys and the rental of them I thinkmost customers would take the risk, assuming the walls (sheetrock) could bedried without cutting or drilling after the cove molding is removed. Warmer,slower moving air directed at the sill plates using laminar air movers would bemy choice.

 

[TomKing]

I had temp of 80 degrees Grains in the low 30's. I hooked up a injection unit and moved the wall board from 30% moisture content to under 10% in 24 hours.

I doubt slow moving air would dry that fast.

Also you have to have 700fpm from your air mover to break the surface tension of the water and initiate evaporation. A slow moving air mover might not be enough fpm.

I get that you do not want to rip up wall paper.

I was just at Kurt Bolden's Commercial Drying Class. He said he cuts the lower part of the cove base off.

Lots of good examples at the Hydro Lab

 

[Desk Jockey]

Other than the cubicles the vast majority was vinyl wall paper. It was a hospital and very little was just drywall by itself. Vinyl is easier to maintain even if just a wainscoting. It really dried easily and had we been able to dry full time we would have been in and out of there. Instead we setup each night at 6:00 pm and broke it down at 6:00am, tidy upped the area so they could operate as normal. We made hay on the weekend, when the equipment ran all the time

 

[Desk Jockey]

This is another medical building, on this floor we removed the base and you can see how the vinyl wall paper has some loose seams from the air turbulence. You can use push pins to hold it tight to the wall and move airmovers away from the seams. We prefer to drill though the base.



This floor the vinyl wall paper was much tighter and wasn't an issue. A lot has to do with how wet the cavity is and how much wicked up into the drywall. The upper floors were the worst in this job, as we drilled you could pull out wet insulation and you had to be careful not to allow it to ball up and destroy the lower wall board.

 

[JR Harvey]

I run the DriForce and I do agree it is a little messy looking but it works great. The yellow hoses in between the manifolds is garbage though. Breaks ALL THE TIME. You need to buy your own if you use it a lot.

Good luck!!