I need an auto pump out

[steampro]

But I cant really see spending $1800 buck either, are there any other options that cost less?

 

[dealtimeman]

I think cobbs sells one for 500.00, that dies something like 10 gpm.

 

[Johnny]

Build yer own most excellent pump-out for less than $200.00.

Simer Pump model BW85P: 12V, 10 GPM, pumps against 15+ HG. $128 delivered to your door from Simer.

Check valve and 2" rubber nipple from Lowe's slips on your dump valve barb. Slips off for sploosh mode.

Rule bilge switch from West Marine mounted to 1/4 inch plate (painted), on heavy rubber base (a little larger than steel plate so it doesn't scrape sides), stays on the bottom of waste tank. No need to drill holes to mount.

Doug Cox had a pic of one I built a few years ago. If he still has it on his computer, he has my permission to post it.

If anyone wants a pic, I'll see if I can figger out how to post one.

 

[steve g]

send me a pic and I can post it.

 

[steampro]

Yes I would like to see a pic

 

[Johnny]

Works for me. Your results may vary.

Of course, in-tank connections must be waterproofed.

Only problem I've had is with durability of the pump motor. Mine have lasted 18-24 months, on average. (Motor burns out.) But you get enough audible warning that it's time to replace. And they're cheap enough to keep a spare. But if you don't let it run dry a lot, as I do, I think it should last longer.

 

[steve g]

I would think you could just T that inline right as it comes out of the waste tank, that way you don't have to take it on and off. why is the rubber needed below the float switch, also where does one get the check valve thingy and why is that needed???

 

[Johnny]

I would think you could just T that inline right as it comes out of the waste tank, that way you don't have to take it on and off.

You could. But it's easy to slip on and off.

why is the rubber needed below the float switch

To isolate the steel balast plate from the floor and walls in the tank. Keeps it from clankin' around.

also where does one get the check valve thingy

Lowe's, or any plumbing supply. Common check valve with a hose thread adapter on one end and a nipple on the other.

and why is that needed???

To maintain vacuum and to protect the pump when tank water level is low.

You can use a manual bypass switch instead of the float switch, as I usually do, (or eliminate the float switch altogether), but you are probably more likely to run the pump dry, (as I usually do).

Do your own experiments and post your results.

 

[Dirtmonger]

Well its not automatic but a cheap option is a little setup I put together. Started with a Pelican 1430 top loading hardcase. $75 off of ebay. Inside is a little giant sump pump with the diaphram switch. ($100 or so) Add a bulkhead gardenhose fitting and couple of bulkhead wire fittings and a 90degree 2" elbow with a threaded end and a piece of hose and misc fittings to plumb the pump to the bulkhead fitting some silicone sealant and you have a neat little setup that is quite portable.

What it would require is when your tank is full connect this via a 2" hose to your recovery tank drain plug it in and open the valve. Connect a garden hose and run it either into the house to a toilet or to an outside cleanout or landscaping if you are so inclined. I suppose with a check valve and valve to open inside to case to break the vacuum lock it you could connect it to the drain and leave the drain valve open thus making it auto.

I actually put this together to be an inline pumpout but the case is tall and narrow enough that it would fall over on its side from the movement of the two inch hose hooked up to it. The case was durable enough to hold to 16" hg and has a major o-ring seal on the lid.

I use this at home and have the discharge hose connected to my outside cleanout. So to empty my tank I just hook it up and open the valve and it gets pumped to the sewer system. I still need to construct a filter basket of some sort to keep the gunk from occasionally clogging up the sump pump screen. Its actually pretty amazing the solids this thing can move.

 

[Dirtmonger]

I would think you could just T that inline right as it comes out of the waste tank, that way you don't have to take it on and off. why is the rubber needed below the float switch, also where does one get the check valve thingy and why is that needed???

The check valve is to keep air from leaking in when the tank is under vacuum and the pump is not running.

 

[Johnny]

Well its not automatic but a cheap option is a little setup I put together. Started with a Pelican 1430 top loading hardcase. $75 off of ebay. Inside is a little giant sump pump with the diaphram switch. ($100 or so) Add a bulkhead gardenhose fitting and couple of bulkhead wire fittings and a 90degree 2" elbow with a threaded end and a piece of hose and misc fittings to plumb the pump to the bulkhead fitting some silicone sealant and you have a neat little setup that is quite portable.

What it would require is when your tank is full connect this via a 2" hose to your recovery tank drain plug it in and open the valve. Connect a garden hose and run it either into the house to a toilet or to an outside cleanout or landscaping if you are so inclined. I suppose with a check valve and valve to open inside to case to break the vacuum lock it you could connect it to the drain and leave the drain valve open thus making it auto.

I actually put this together to be an inline pumpout but the case is tall and narrow enough that it would fall over on its side from the movement of the two inch hose hooked up to it. The case was durable enough to hold to 16" hg and has a major o-ring seal on the lid.

I use this at home and have the discharge hose connected to my outside cleanout. So to empty my tank I just hook it up and open the valve and it gets pumped to the sewer system. I still need to construct a filter basket of some sort to keep the gunk from occasionally clogging up the sump pump screen. Its actually pretty amazing the solids this thing can move.

Hey DM,

Can you post a pic?