I need some help in understanding oil weight

Matt Wood

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The backup box/van I bought burns about a quart of oil in between oil changes. It’s made to take 5w30

If it’s leaking through the top end, would a thicker, not heavier oil help? Something like 5w40? Or do I have it backwards and need 10w30?

I was always told that 5w is better because it stays in the piston walls longer for a safer cold start.

Thanks for any advice you can give
 

Matt Wood

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And my dumb ass sold auto parts for a year prior to rug sucking. I didn’t know anything about oil, but I was king at putting on some windshield wipers and swapping out battries. Yes, we called them battries
 

FredC

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The situation you describe you aren't likely to see any difference.

and yes the higher the weight the "thicker"

the lower number in multi-weight what it flows like cold (below freezing).
 
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Matt Wood

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The situation you describe you aren't likely to see any difference.

and yes the higher the weight the "thicker"

the lower number in multi-weight what it flows like cold (below freezing).
So 5w40 should be the better choice?
 

Matt Wood

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I’m just wanting to bandaid the situation right now until I’m ready to do a bigger investment.
 

Cleanworks

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The backup box/van I bought burns about a quart of oil in between oil changes. It’s made to take 5w30

If it’s leaking through the top end, would a thicker, not heavier oil help? Something like 5w40? Or do I have it backwards and need 10w30?

I was always told that 5w is better because it stays in the piston walls longer for a safer cold start.

Thanks for any advice you can giveget
Get some Lucas oil additive
 

Matt Wood

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When it gets over 80f this late spring, I’m switching over to 5w40

I’ll do some research on the difference between 5w30 and 10w30 during the winter months. I’m concerned it won’t be as good on cold starts if I go up to 10w30
 

Jimmy L

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Supertech by walmart here. Tested out very well by that youtube guy who tested most of the popular brands. Matt I would use the high mileage synthetic.
 
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FredC

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Don't believe the additive hype then?

mostly no

but remember he is trying to fix and issue of burning a quart of oil. Thicker oil isn't going to stop that.

an additive that swells seals (stop leak) might provide some benefit if it is being lost by seals....but I wouldn't use it

it is unlikely there is any problem with the current oil when it comes to coating/cold starts so an additive is likely pointless there too
 
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The Great Oz

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If your oil burning is due to worn cylinders/rings/valve guides, high viscosity oil might slow down the burn rate by a fraction. AS others have said, a quart between oil changes isn't bad, but it wouldn't hurt to move up to 20/50 for one oil change cycle and see how it does.

There are some "engine repair in a can" products that leave a hard deposit on internal surfaces and do work to stop oil burning from worn rings or valve guides. I don't know how well they work long term, I learned about them from a gypsy used car dealer that was only interested in stopping a smoky exhaust.
 

steve_64

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Using the wrong oil can can cause the small ports going to the valves to plug up in some engines.
But I did use 30 weight in my bronco II to stop a camshaft bearing from knocking.
As long as it's not smoking I would stick with factory specs.
 
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