IICRC app content

[Mikey P]

1. Wine

Most wine spills are easy to remove if dealt with immediately. While the internet is loaded with wine removal suggestions, we strongly recommend that you refer to the spot cleaning procedure below.
For larger (whole bottle) spills, you’ll want to extract as much of the wine as possible with a wet/dry vacuum or a carpet extractor prior to following the recommendations in the spotting guide. If the wine reached the carpet backing or pad, you may see some of the spot reappear within a few days. Mist fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide on the area and gently blot with a microfiber towel to eliminate the spot.

1. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

2. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

3. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area.
4. Repeat until the spot disappears.

5. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide*, and leaving it work. This may take several hours or a few attempts. *bleaching around the wine spot may occur with natural fibers

6. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.


7.In some situations, red wine can leave a stubborn lingering red or pink stain behind that will need special attention from a IICRC Certified Cleaning Professional. This is seen most often with natural fibers or older synthetic carpet or textiles.

Care Tips:
Keep a one or two gallon wet/dry vacuum nearby that can be easily accessed and used to extract wine, coffee, soda, pet messes, and other liquid spills.

 

[Mikey P]

1. Coffee/Tea

Removing coffee and tea spills from carpet and textiles can vary in success based on a number of factors as explained below. When you consider that both coffee and tea are used in the Middle East to dye wool rugs, it’s understandable that complete removal from natural fibers can take considerable efforts. Depending on the individual fiber types and if any sort of stain protection was applied, in many situations 100% removal may not be possible.

Additives in either drink, such as milk, sugar, added dyes used in manufacturing, etc, can complicate the removal process. The size and penetration of the spill will also influence the amount of effort and number of attempts needed for complete removal. If the liquid penetrated through the backing or padding, the spot may return after the carpet dries. Mist fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide on the area and gently blot with a microfiber towel to eliminate the spot.


Please follow the guidelines below. If you are not satisfied with your results, please consult with your IICRC Certified Cleaner for more advanced techniques.

1. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

2. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

3. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area.

4. Repeat until the spot disappears.

5. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it work. This may take several hours or a few attempts

6. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.

 

[Mikey P]

3.Kool-Aid

Kool-Aid and any other drinks that contain Red Dye # 40 or a close derivative can range from simple to impossible to remove from both synthetic and natural fibers. Fresh spills on new stain-resistant synthetic carpet and textiles may come clean with basic carpet cleaning methods. Older spills on natural fibers or older, worn carpet are more difficult to remove.
Red food dyes are nearly identical to the dye used to color the carpet, so removing them requires techniques, products, and equipment that homeowners do not have access to. Consult with your IICRC Certified Cleaner about risks involved with stain removal. Patching is another option in severe cases.

Fresh spills can be dealt with as follows:

1. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

2. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

3.If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area
4. Repeat until the spot disappears.

5. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it work. This may take several hours or a few attempts

6. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.

 

[Mikey P]

4.Blood
According to OSHA and the CDC, any bodily fluid has to be considered pathogenic, and may require special cleaning procedures and disposal processes not included with normal carpet cleaning. Small droplets of blood will often come out of most textiles with ease, while larger spills will require an IICRC Technician certified in Hazard Waste Removal. Medications in the system of the human or pet may prevent 100% removal of the spots due to synthetic dyes used in the manufacture of the medications.

Care Tips:
For small droplets of blood on synthetic textiles you can try the following:

1. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

2. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

3. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area

4. Repeat until the spot disappears.

5. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it work.This may take several hours or a few attempts

6. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.

Be sure to wear gloves and do not allow foreign blood to come into contact with you in any way.

 

[Mikey P]

5.Vomit
Vomit, like blood, is a bodily fluid and according to OSHA and CDC, has to be considered a pathogenic. Your IICRC Certified Carpet Cleaner needs to take safety precautions which are not part of regular cleaning. Vomit will contain stomach acids and possibly food or medicine dyes which could attack carpet and textile fibers. The longer vomit stays in contact with your carpet or upholstery, the more likely you are to have staining and lingering odor issues. Due to vomit’s thin liquidity, your carpet pad or upholstery cushions may need subsurface treatments and possible disposal.

Care Tips: Use a wet/dry vacuum to extract as much vomit as possible prior to any spot cleaning attempts.

If you wish to attempt to clean up the vomit yourself, try the following:

1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.

2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

4.If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area

5. Repeat until the spot disappears.

6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it to work. This may take several hours or a few attempts

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.

 

[Mikey P]

6. Do It Yourself “Oxy” spotter stains
There are many consumer-grade carpet and fabric spotter products on the market today that contain “Oxy”, otherwise known as an oxygen bleach. While these solutions can be effective at removing organic soil and spots, if the solution is not thoroughly rinsed from the textile immediately after use, permanent bleaching can occur over time. Most synthetic carpets will turn a light yellowish-brown color, but pink and orange are possible, too.
Many of these products contain surfactants or detergents that will attract soil to the area quickly if not thoroughly rinsed. During a professional cleaning, it’s common for the soil to be removed and a yellow discoloration or other form of color change to appear right away. Unfortunately, this can only be corrected by dyeing or patching. Ask your IICRC Certified Technician if they provide these services or for a referral.


Most spots in your home come from food and beverage spills or accidental discharges of urine, vomit, or feces. In most of these cases, spots can be removed using the following steps:

1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.

2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

4. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area

5. Repeat until the spot disappears.

6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it to work. This may take several hours or a few attempts

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.

 

[Mikey P]

7. Non-Professional carpet and fabric spotter residue
There are endless carpet and fabric spotting solutions available in stores and online. Unfortunately, many of these products cause more problems than they solve, such as leaving sticky/dirt-attracting residues, color loss, yellowing, texture change, and other unwanted results, even when the directions are followed.
Stay away from any product that says that rinsing or neutralizing is not needed.
A good test to check for any residue issues is to place a half ounce of the product at its recommended dilution in a small glass and let it evaporate. If there is any detectable sticky residue in the glass you can assume the same residue will be left on your carpet or fabric and will attract soil or worse.
Advancements in fiber and stain protection technology make spot cleaning synthetic carpet and upholstery fairly easy. We recommend you try the following procedure before using non-professional spotters:

1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.

2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

4. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area

5. Repeat until the spot disappears.

6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it to work. This may take several hours or a few attempts

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.

 

[Mikey P]

8. Bleach Stains

Complete or moderate color loss to most textiles will occur if exposed to chlorine bleach (Clorox). Equal or greater damage can occur from oxygen (Oxy) bleach spotters or boosters if they are not fully rinsed and neutralized. Most commonly, light yellow to pure white discoloration is the end result of exposure to chlorine bleach. Unfortunately, only dyeing or patching can correct bleach damage.

Ask your IICRC Certified Technician if they provide these services or for a referral

Carpet made from Olefin fibers is the one exception when it comes to being bleach proof and should be considered for carpeted laundry rooms or areas near swimming pools.

 

[Mikey P]

9.Medicine and Acne medications
Many household and prescription medicines contain dyes that are nearly identical to fabric and carpet dyes. When these dyes come into contact with most any textile, they can be difficult to remove without causing further damage.
Benzoyl peroxide (common acne medication) can cause bleaching when the hot water used in a professional cleaning activates the peroxide in the medication. Unfortunately, the medication-stained area can only be corrected by spot dyeing or patching.
Ask your IICRC Certified Technician if they offer these services or have someone to refer.

 

[Mikey P]

10.Smoke Related Odors
Tobacco, cannabis, and other fire-related odors in the carpet can also be present in other absorbent items in the home. Smoke odor molecules from any source will attach to furniture, baseboards, drywall, window coverings, bedding, and/or the HVAC system. While a thorough cleaning and deodorizing of the carpet will help, be prepared to have all absorbent surfaces in the affected area cleaned and deodorized. In extreme cases your hard surfaces such as walls, ceilings, tile, wood, or vinyl flooring may need mitigation as well.
If your regular carpet cleaning company does not provide these extensive services, use this link to find an IICRC Certified Odor Control Specialist https://www.iicrc.org/page/IICRCGlobalLocator

 

[Mikey P]

11.Curry and other food related odors
Curry is especially complex and difficult to remove as it consists of tamarind, onion, coriander, chili pepper, turmeric, cumin, fenugreek, pepper, and mustard all combined. Cooking odors in the carpet can also be present in other absorbent items in the home. Cooking odor molecules will attach to furniture, baseboards, drywall, window coverings, bedding, and/or the HVAC system. While a thorough cleaning and deodorizing of the carpet will help, be prepared to have all absorbent surfaces in the affected area cleaned and deodorized. In extreme cases your hard surfaces such as walls, ceilings, tile, wood, or vinyl flooring may need mitigation as well.
If your regular carpet cleaning company does not provide these extensive services, use this link to find an IICRC Certified Odor Control Specialist https://www.iicrc.org/page/IICRCGlobalLocator

 

[Mikey P]

12.Skunk odors
Skunk odors in the carpet can also be present in other absorbent items in the home. Odor molecules will attach to furniture, baseboards, drywall, window coverings, bedding, and/or the HVAC system. While a thorough cleaning and deodorizing of the carpet will help, be prepared to have all absorbent surfaces in the affected area cleaned and deodorized. In extreme cases your hard surfaces such as walls, ceilings, tile, wood, or vinyl flooring may need mitigation as well.
If your regular carpet cleaning company does not provide these extensive services, use this link to find an IICRC Certified Odor Control Specialist https://www.iicrc.org/page/IICRCGlobalLocator
If your pet is the source of the skunk odor, be sure to bathe him or her before proceeding to your floors and furnishings. Click here for tried and true instructions

 

[Mikey P]

13. Mold and Mildew odors in carpet and upholstery
The musty smell associated with mold or mildew is much like any other persistent odor and it’s best to eliminate it at the source. While there are many consumer-grade products available that will cover up or mask the smell of either problem, your health could be at risk by not eliminating the source.
The S100 Carpet Cleaning Standards reads as follows:
“Odors can occur from sources other than bodily discharges (e.g., hair, dander, and body oils from dogs and cats). Elevated heat and humidity created from the cleaning process can amplify odors, so they are more evident during and after cleaning and during warm, humid conditions. Mold and mildew odors perceived to be coming from the carpet can actually also be present in other absorbent items in the home such as furniture, baseboards, dry wall, window coverings, bedding as well as the HVAC system.”
Due to the dangers associated with breathing/ingesting mold, it is highly recommended that you consult with an IICRC Certified Mold Remediation Specialist.

 

[Mikey P]

14. Animal Stains and Odors

Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but they’re not necessarily the best friends of our carpeting, draperies, and upholstery.

Urine: There are two types of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal's urine and those in the dyes and fibers of textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediately noticeable. Some textile dyes change color as soon as urine comes into contact with them.
The other type of reaction develops slowly over several days or months and can result in permanent changes to the dyes and fiber. In many cases, this type of damage can only be seen with the aid of a Black/UV light. Not only can the dye change, but some fibers may become weakened or destroyed by the aged urine. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable odor. After cleaning, these areas are more obvious because the soils which hid the changed color and damaged fibers have been removed. Also, dyes weakened by urine can be removed or bleed during professional cleaning.
After cleaning, the area may still glow when observed under UV light. (Actually, the correct term is “fluoresce”—the treated area is reflecting the UV light back to your eyes as visible light.) This fluorescing is not due to the presence of urine in that spot, but from phosphorous left over from the breakdown of phosphocreatine. During that process the phosphorous becomes chemically bonded to the fibers as a dye would. Just like a dye, the phosphorous is now part of the surface of the fibers, and it is quite difficult to remove without damaging the existing dyes on those fibers.

Feces: Pet feces is easier to remove than urine. Compact deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic scraper or spatula. The surface should then be cleaned with the standard spotting solution and blotted dry. Refer to the spotting steps below for further information and techniques. Follow this treatment with a disinfectant recommended by your IICRC Certified Cleaner or veterinarian.
Loose feces require the same clean-up procedure as described below for fresh urine removal. This should also be followed with an application of disinfectant.
If your pets' food or treats contain red dye to make them look meatier, red discoloration may remain at the site of the accident. Your IICRC Certified Cleaner may be able to remove this, but with caution as many red food dyes are nearly identical to fabric dyes and some color loss may be unavoidable.

A IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner will have methods available to minimize the discoloration, disinfect the area, and reduce the smell. It is often impossible to completely restore the original appearance of a textile furnishing that has been damaged with aged pet urine, especially if homeowners attempt to remove the urine using the wrong products or methods. .




Care Tips: Use a wet/dry vacuum for the initial pick up of urine and loose feces and to extract spotting and rinsing agents.
Place a damp white cotton towel over affected areas to keep the accident from drying if the spot cannot be cleaned right away Be aware that some disinfectants and oxy products may cause discoloration of textile furnishings and carpet if not fully rinsed and neutralized.


1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.

2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

4. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area.

5. Repeat until the spot disappears.

6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it to work. This may take several hours or a few attempts

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.

 

[Mikey P]

15. Dander and Allergens

According to Wikipedia; Dander is material shed from the body of humans and other animals that have fur, hair, or feathers. The term is similar to dandruff, when an excess of flakes becomes visible. Skin flakes that come off the main body of an animal are dander, while the flakes of skin called dandruff come from the scalp and are composed of epithelial skin cells. The surface layer of mammalian skin is called the stratum corneum, which is shed as part of normal skin replacement.
Dander is microscopic, and can be transported through the air in house dust, where it forms the diet of the dust mites. Through the air, dander can enter the mucous membranes in the nose and lungs, causing allergies in susceptible individuals, largely through the mechanism of allergy to proteins in the bodies of the dust mites that live on dander. Dander builds up in carpets and in mattresses and pillows, so smooth surfaces predispose to an environment where levels of dander can be controlled more easily. More pet dander is sloughed off in older animals than in younger animals. Dander build up can be a cause of allergies, such as allergic rhinitis, in humans. "Dr. Paivi Salo, an allergy expert at the National Institute of Health states 'Currently, airborne allergies affect approximately 10-30% of adults and 40% of children. Damp dusting and vacuum cleaners with sealed bodies and fitted with HEPA filters reduce re-distribution of the dander dust, with associated dust mites, into the air.
Removing dander odor from your home will require many steps including cleaning virtually all absorbent items and surfaces. It may require more than one carpet cleaning to remove the odor, and in extreme cases where the dander has penetrated to the backing or pad, replacement may be the only answer.
To deodorize other content in your home, we recommend consulting with an IICRC Certified Odor Specialist. We also highly recommend using a NADCA Certified HVAC Specialist to clean and deodorize your HVAC system (https://nadca.com/find-a-professional)

 

[Mikey P]

16.Fume fading /discoloration under rugs
Phenolic yellowing is a type of chemical yellowing that occurs in carpets that contain butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT).
Carpets that contain BHT require breathing space. When objects like flat, legless furniture or area rugs are placed on top of carpet, the covered area does not receive enough air. The BHT reacts and causes yellowing.
Reversing the effects of phenolic yellowing on your carpet can be challenging. Removing the furniture or rug and exposing the carpet to air can lead to a gradual restoration of its color. Your IICRC Certified Technician can also apply citric acid to treat phenolic yellowing, but there’s no guarantee that either of these methods will correct the issue.

 

[Mikey P]

17. Four Examples of Pile Distortion Issues


1.Shading
Carpet shading is a normal characteristic of cut pile carpets, especially those with a smooth pile such as velvets and saxony plush. Carpet shading is considered an aesthetic quality of fine carpet and is not considered a defect. Shading is caused by light reflecting erratically off of tufts that bend differently from footprints, vacuuming, etc.

2.Pooling
Carpet/Rug pooling, also referred to as watermarking, occurs when an area of carpet fibers lay in a different direction than the rest of the fibers. Carpet pooling will often occur adjacent to trafficked areas, but occasionally pooling will occur in nearly new carpet where little foot traffic has taken place.
To better understand the effect of pooling, study the pooled area(‘s) from two opposing sides of the room, paying attention to how the darker and lighter areas reverse themselves as you move back and forth.

Pooling example of the same area


Click here for more information on shading and pooling https://www.scrt.org/scrt-free-repo...lated-pile-reversal-watermarking-shading/file


3. Fading
According to the IICRC S100 Cleaning Standards, your carpet‘s fading issues can result from several conditions:
a. Light, whether incandescent, fluorescent, or especially, direct sunlight, all sources can have an effect on dyes after a period of prolonged exposure;
b. Soil, especially oily soil, tends to affect dyes
c. Vapor (i.e., fume) or ozone, atmospheric gases passing over or through fibers, for prolonged periods, can have an effect on dyes. Some subfloor types and carpet underlayments can contain damaging fumes as well

4. Shedding

Are you noticing loose carpet fibers on your floor or in your vacuum? This is normal and does not mean that you have a defective carpet. Cut pile carpet is typically made from fibers 2-4 inches in length, which are spun together to create a soft, luxurious look and feel. In the manufacturing process these yarns are secured to the carpet within the latex backing. The short end pieces of these fibers that do not always get anchored into the latex and will become detached during vacuuming . Depending on the density of the carpet, this “shedding” can last up to 2 years (or more with wool carpet) and is not a cause for concern.




Care Tips:
-Consider having UV resistant film applied to windows that experience prolonged sunlight exposure.
-Regular scheduled professional cleaning of fading-prone area
-If your vacuum cleaner regularly pulls out what appears to be excessive fibers from your carpet you may be running the brush roll too low or the roll’s brushes may be too stiff for your carpet type.

 

[Mikey P]

18.Carpet Rippling

Wall-to-wall carpeting can experience rippling or become wavy for a few reasons:
1. Improper Installation

Carpeting can ripple if not stretched properly during installation. IICRC Installation Standards call for the installer to use a pole or power stretcher whenever possible to stretch your carpet from wall to wall. If your installer is only using the knee kicker to install your carpet, it is not going to be stretched enough to meet manufacturers’ specifications.

2. Low Quality or Improper Padding

Low quality carpet padding may save you some money up front, but in the long run it can cost you. Always check the carpet manufacturer's specifications before purchasing padding. For example, if you are purchasing a cut pile carpet, you will want padding that is no greater than seven-sixteenths of an inch thick and no less than a six-pound density. Selecting improper padding can void the manufacturer’s warranty and lead to your carpet becoming wrinkled and rippled.

3. Over-wetting

This can be the result of improper cleaning, flooding, or moisture in the subfloor. Over-wetting can be avoided by utilizing a properly trained and IICRC certified technician. Ongoing moisture issues should be examined by a IICRC Certified Flooring Inspector

4. Delamination - (see the IICRC Delamination Information Sheet for further information)

If your carpet has experienced rippling after it’s been cleaned, do not take any measures to correct the issue for 48 hours. Improperly installed (loose) carpet will lay flat again 99% of the time. The moisture and humidity created during the cleaning process will often cause the backing material to swell, causing some rippling every time you have your carpet cleaned. We highly recommend having your carpet re-stretched by an IICRC Certified Carpet Repairman; correctly installed carpet wears better and lasts longer.

 

[Mikey P]

19.Delamination
Most wall-to-wall carpet is constructed with a primary and secondary backing, with latex glue sandwiched between them to secure the carpet yarns (see diagram below).
Delamination, or separation of the two backings, can occur when the latex is damaged by excessive pet urine, prolonged or repeated exposure to water, improper use of solvent spotting agents, excessive foot traffic, or the use of heavy rolling carts or wheelchairs. Delamination is rarely caused by normal cleaning procedures. Underneath rolling office chairs or entry doorways that often get wet in the winter are common areas that delaminate over time. Lack of proper tension during the carpet’s install is another cause for delamination.
While repair by an IICRC Certified Repair Technician is sometimes possible, it’s not always cost effective when considering the carpet’s age, overall condition, and replacement costs.

Care Tips:
Use a plastic mat under your office chairs to prevent carpet damage from the wheels.
Use only water-based spotting agents.
Consider having a 3’ by 3’ section of tile, wood, or vinyl installed in doorways rather than having carpet next to the door.
When buying new carpet, make sure that the installers use a power stretcher to achieve proper tension of the carpet throughout your home.

 

[Mikey P]

20. Corn Rowing
Corn rowing is a condition that may appear on carpet before or after cleaning. It looks like distinct rows of tufts have fallen over and the tips have become embedded in the carpet pile. It usually forms in a regular pattern with every fourth or fifth row bending over, as might happen in a row of corn. The condition may develop in traffic lanes and under doors that scrape the carpet as they are opened and closed. It generally occurs perpendicular to the traffic direction.

Corn rowing appears most commonly on carpets made from fine, soft yarns, with a fairly high cut pile. In most cases the overall density is not adequate to support the yarns and keep them upright. If there is too much space between the rows, the tufts may be bent over when they are walked on. Soft, fine yarns do not spring back as readily as other carpet yarns made from heavier and denser fibers.

Although cleaning the carpet may bring the problem to light, it is not the cause of the distorted pile surface. Corn rowing is simply an inherent characteristic of certain carpet constructions. Vacuuming and raking the carpet perpendicular to the traffic patterns may help in some cases. In extreme situations, we suggest you contact the manufacturer.

 

[Mikey P]

21.Wicking (or reappearing spots or soil)

Wicking, a common cause of recurring spots and stains, is a term used to describe the upward migration of water-soluble materials on carpet fiber surfaces during drying.
Regardless of the method used, carpet cleaning cannot remove 100% of the soil deeply imbedded in the carpet fibers.. A certain amount can be left behind at the base of yarns and on the carpet backing. This soil can migrate from the base of yarns and backing materials to the yarn tips, where it becomes a visible spot again after the carpet dries.

Care tips:
If your carpet is experiencing wicking after cleaning you can try these easy steps to fix the unsightly areas
-Let the carpet dry thoroughly for at least 48 hours
-Vacuum the area with a brush roll-equipped upright vacuum, slowly and from three or more directions
-Lightly mist distilled water on the affected area and gently blot with a microfiber (preferred) or white cotton towel. Look for soil transferring onto the towel.
-If effective, continue to lightly mist and blot, until the carpet’s appearance returns to normal. 3% Hydrogen Peroxide works well,too and will not cause a bleaching effect. Make sure it's a fresh, unopened bottle.
-Let the area dry and inspect
-If the carpet still does not look normal (keeping in mind that wicking usually occurs in high traffic areas and wear may still be obvious), consult with your IICRC Certified Technician to set up a return visit or for suggestions on what cleaning solutions would be best for your carpet type.

 

[Mikey P]

22.Resoiling
Resoiling occurs when the carpet becomes visibly soiled more quickly than it should after being cleaned. There are many potential causes for resoling: detergent or soap residues not effectively rinsed during the cleaning process, walking on wet carpet immediately after cleaning, contaminants tracked in from the outside such as black top slurry, road salt or ice melt, excessive soap residue left behind from DIY homeowner attempts at cleaning or spotting, foot lotion, dog hair oil residue, etc.
It can take a bit of detective work with some analytical observations along with input from your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner to come up with the reason or reasons behind your resoiling problem.


Care tips:
Use absorbent walk off mats in entry and kitchen areas. Choose a mat or rug that can be easily laundered at home on a regular basis.

Let your IICRC Certified Cleaning Technician know what spotting chemicals you may have used since the last cleaning; special rinsing methods may be needed.

Be mindful of oily residues from feet or pets and take precautions to prevent their transfer to your carpet or rugs

 

[Mikey P]

23.Brown out or Browning
Cellulosic browning occurs when plant-based carpet fibers such as jute or cotton dry slowly. Sugars or lignin in the plant fiber cells rise to the surface and leave a yellow to brown discoloration. The process is similar to an apple slice or wilted salad greens turning brown, and is easily corrected with the proper cleaning methods. Browning is sometimes confused with soil wicking.

If your carpet experienced browning after it dried, contact your IICRC Technician or Firm to set up a return visit to have the issue corrected. DO NOT attempt to fix browning yourself.

 

[Mikey P]

24. Soil Filtration Lines
Soil filtration lines are dark, soiled areas that develop gradually on carpet. They are most common around the edges of a room next to the wall, under floor-length draperies, and under doors. They can also develop anywhere there is an air space, such as between floorboards or spaces in the sub-flooring. Also known as soil lines, smog lines, and perimeter soiling (when they occur around walls), the problem is usually more obvious close to heating ducts, electric floor outlets, and gas valves. Bedroom doors that are closed at night, especially where windows are left open, are likely to develop the lines.

As air passes over the carpet, microscopic particles of dirt, dust, and soot settle and become embedded in the carpet pile yarns. In areas where the air flows over the carpet more rapidly than normal, the carpet acts as a filter, extracting the soil particles from the air. Filtration soil is exceptionally fine and can penetrate deeply into the yarns. Special techniques by a professional carpet cleaner are usually required to improve the appearance of soil filtration lines.

Unfortunately, the discoloration cannot always be removed completely. The degree of removal depends on the amount and type of soil, length of time the soil has accumulated, amount of airflow, color of carpet, and type of fiber. The lines can be removed from most synthetic fibers. However, in severe cases, especially on light colored carpets, traces may remain after cleaning. It is exceedingly difficult to remove filtration soiling completely from wool or olefin carpets.



Care Tips:
Have your HVAC system periodically inspected and cleaned.
Change your HVAC filters regularly.
Use the edging tool on your upright or canister vacuum cleaner once a month or as needed to help remove dust and lint along baseboards.
A damp microfiber towel can be gently blotted along the baseboard and stairwell edges to help remove some soiling. Wear thick leather gloves to protect your skin from the tack strip nails.
Take the opportunity during re-flooring projects to have gaps between floors and walls sealed by an HVAC specialist.

 

[Mikey P]

Tile and Grout Section​

1.Stained grout

Standard cement-based grout is not much different than your concrete driveway, garage floor, or the sidewalks around your home. These can all be easily stained if not kept sealed and properly maintained.
Soil in your grout that has not saturated too deeply can usually be removed or visually improved with the IICRC certified cleaning process.
More deeply-set stains will require regrouting or application of a topical color seal product to hide the stained areas.
The use of a no-rinse neutral pH solution as your regular cleaner is highly recommended as acidic or alkaline cleaners can degrade the grout and leave soil-attracting residues over time.

Care Tip- Using a microfiber flat mop system will help keep your entire floor cleaner longer, especially the grout. Search YouTube to see examples and be sure to use a no-rinse neutral pH cleaner, which leaves no residue and will not affect sealers of any kind.

 

[Mikey P]

2. Topical sealer/coating failure or wear

Floor sealers fall into two categories, penetrative and topical. Think of the penetrative type as a protective layer that can’t be seen or felt, and think of the topical type as a clear coat of paint. Topical sealers can scratch, separate from the floor, or wear off over time.Topical sealers are not usually the best choice and are often applied by mistake.
In many cases it can be hard to impossible to detect the presence of a topical sealer until after the cleaning process has begun.
In some cases, topically coated floors can be gently cleaned and additional sealer can be re-applied. The increase in renewed gloss will hide many minor flaws in wood or porous tile floors.
Removing topical sealers can be a expensive, messy, and time-consuming project. Not all IICRC Certified cleaning companies are trained to or wish to perform this service.

Care Tip- Use of a microfiber flat mop system will help keep your entire floor cleaner longer, especially the grout. Search YouTube to see examples and be sure to use a no- rinse neutral pH cleaner, which leaves no residue and will not affect sealers of any kind.

 

[Mikey P]

3. MDF baseboard swelling

Medium Density Fiberboard baseboard has become the number one choice for most homes in the last ten years. While affordable compared to hardwood, its inherent ability to absorb water makes it a poor choice.
If the bottom edge is not painted or sealed and has a gap where water and cleaning solutions can come in contact with the fiberboard, the baseboard will swell considerably, and the effects are permanent. Ideally, the gap should be filled with silicone or caulk prior to having your floors professionally cleaned. In cases where time or finances do not allow for precautionary measures, your cleaning technician will do their best to keep moisture away from the areas where a gap is present.

Care Tip- Use of a “Microfiber Flat Mop System” will help keep your entire floor cleaner longer, ESPECIALLY the grout. A Flat Mop is much easier to control along baseboards as well. Search YouTube to see many examples of such and be sure to use a “Neutral pH No Rinse Cleaner” which leaves no residue and will not affect sealers of any kind.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Looks good!

So a consumer will need to download the app to their phone to be able to access this information?
Do you think they will do it?

Would you as a consumer?


Will it also be on a website or pdf to download or send?

 

[Mikey P]

4.Sealers or protectors not beading

The water beading attributed to a sealer is based on the surface tension created by the sealer residue. The first time that the sealed stone surface or grout is cleaned, the surface tension is relaxed, and the water no longer holds a strong bead on the surface. Remember, stain resistance is the desired result, not temporary water beading. A decrease in surface tension does not mean a reduction in stain resistance.

Sealing grout and stone after professional cleaning is always recommended to restore stain and soil absorption resistance.

Care Tip; The use of a “No Rinse Neutral pH” solution as your regular cleaner is highly recommended as acidic or alkaline cleaners degrade grout sealer over time and can leave soil attracting residues.
Use of a “Microfiber Flat Mop System” will help keep your entire floor cleaner longer, ESPECIALLY the grout. Search YouTube to see many examples of such and be sure to use a “Neutral pH No Rinse Cleaner” which leaves no residue and will not affect sealers of any kind.

 

[Mikey P]

5.Acid etching on stone

Etching is surface damage in the form of a dull mark on natural stone that contains calcium carbonate. It happens when acidic substances come into contact with countertops, floors, walls, or anywhere you may have a calcareous stone (natural stone composed of calcium carbonate). Some common household items are notorious for causing etching including lemons, soft drinks, ketchup, and many familiar household cleaning products. These substances can corrode man-made, marble, limestone, or travertine tiles upon contact and eat away the shiny surface layer, leaving behind a dull spot that is often lighter in color, white, or misdiagnosed as a stain.
Resurfacing services of etched areas are offered by many IICRC certified companies and individuals.

Care Tip: Use of a “Microfiber Flat Mop System” will help keep your entire floor cleaner longer, ESPECIALLY the grout. Search YouTube to see many examples of such and be sure to use a “Neutral pH No Rinse Cleaner” which leaves no residue and will not affect sealers or natural stone of any kind.
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