Interview With Dana Kothrade 10-15-08

Mikey P

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Here are the pre asked questions for Dana...



Why does an OP machine work so well with the Monkey Pads but no with honing powders?


Still not sure, we first tried it at connections and haven't had a second to spare since. We'll research that as soon as possible.

Why do some powders work so well and even need be started wet, then worked until the floor is dry? I've used some powders for polishing granite with steel wool that work like that.


Two things- the water acts as a lubricant which keeps the abrasive particles in tact. As the water dries up during polishing, the abrasive particles breack down rapidly from the increased friction and therefore get finer every time you go from wet to dry. The result is that if you are polishing granite with a Tin Oxide powder polish and you repeat that process several times, the polish becomes smoother and finer which creates a deeper, clearer gloss.


What would happen if you let the floor dry out while using the monkey pads?


Nothing, because ther is no acidic component in "Monkey Pads" unlike most professional polishing compounds, there is no risk of damage. Simpley re wet and continue.

How often does your Stone Wax need to be reapplied? Does it harden like a regular wax acting as a sacrificial surface to protect the stone? Would you compare it to Stone Pro's "Finishing Touch" or TOG's "Radiance"?


Re apply as often as possible. What I reccomend is to offer 5 year FREE re polish with any other service. It costs you pennies, takes only minutes, gets you more repeat business (the best kind right???) and makes chearleaders out of even the most reserved customers.
As far as the comparison, Finishing Touch is a great product but they are like comparing apples and shoe strings. Finishing Touch is like Pledge for Granite, The wax we are talking about is very different. Its a paste, it goes deep into the pores, all residue on the surface is machine polished away using steel wool.

Do you prefer an orbital or a grinder for hand work and why?


Haven't found an orbital that works well enough on counter tops, I'll let you know if I do.

When you teach, do you use a wet vac & mop bucket, a portable, and/or a truck mount in you classes?

Portable, I don't know many true stone guys who even use a truckmount, its just an unnessecary expense for stone.

What is the best referral source for contractors to go after and how should we go about establishing them?

General Contractors, remodelers, commercial property managers, anyone who has the potential to send you several large jobs (10,000 -20,000 sq.ft.)per year. Join local contractor associations and get active! Do short presentations and demonstrations as often as possible. Contractors love a good free lunch, make friends and let them know how you can help them... SAVE TIME, SAVE MONEY, KEEP BUILDINGS IN GREAT CONDITION, REDUCE MAINTENANCE, ELIMINATE REPLACEMENT......

What type of color seal yields a longer lasting bond, epoxy or acrylic and why?

I like color sealers that have high pigment content, acrylic and urethane, the bond well, cover well and are easy to work with.

Explain mechanical and chemical bonds with clear and color seals?


Mechanical bond is when the sealer sticks to a surface, chemical bond is when one or more components of the sealer actually react with certain minerals in the surface it is applied to.


Does acid cleaning make color sealer bond better?


Absolutely! It opens the pores which gives the color sealer more places to hold on. Think of it like sanding before you paint for a better longer lasting bond only with chemicals instead of sand paper.

Acids, if used improperly for cleaning if you are not going to color seal will open the pores so much that several coats of a clear impregnating sealer may not be enough to provide adequate protection. Acids can also weaken grout if used improperly and not rinsed well after cleaning.


What does crystallizing do to the floor and why is there so many strong opinions against it?


One of the main components in Crystrallizer is a very strong acid which is meant to help speed the polishing and harden the stone, the wax emulsion helps give is gloss and rich color. Most people over use it to such a degree that it causes severe and irreversible damage to the stone. It actually weakens it so much that the areas of the stone with higher levels of calcium actually melt away, giving the stone a fake plastic textured look. Go to most casino lobbies and you'll see exactally what I mean.

How do you strip a floor that has been crystallized?


You don't, you must grind it away. We have found that you can bring some clarity and depth back to a stone that has been abused by over crystallizing by using monkey pads but I reccomend a 200 or 400 grit grind to knock down the damage then bring it back to 800 or 1500 with diamonds before using monkey pads.


List some good websites for education.
Don't have a recommendation.

List some of your favorite suppliers and why you like them.


The fact that we started our own line of chemicals and equipment should give you an idea of our experience with suppliers. I'll just leave it at that...
What is the biggest screw up that newbies make?

Most guys are either to scared to ever move forward or too eager and confident to hold back without gaining any experience.

Neither is profitable.
MY STRONG RECCOMENDATION IS... Install various types of marble, travertine and limestone in your shop or garage. Preferably ones that are common in your area.

THEN PRACTICE! AGAIN AND AGAIN, HONING, POLISHING BACK AND FORTH, REMOVE ETCHING, SCRATCHES AND POLISH IT AGAIN AND AGAIN TILL YOUR FEAR AND HESITATION TURNS TO CONFIDENCE AND PRIDE IN YOUR ABILITIES. yOUR GARAGE FLOOR WON'T SUE YOU WHEN YOU SCREW IT UP, IT WON'T LOOK AT YOU LIKE A HACK, IT WON'T EMBARRASS YOU WHEN YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO FIX IT AND IT NEVER MINDS IF YOU GET FRUSTRATED AND DON'T WANT TO WORK ON IT TILL NEXT WEEKEND.
 

Mikey P

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Welcome everyone to an old fashion MB Hot Seat.

The most valuable CCBB interviews to be had.

First off we only have Dana for a hour and a half tonight so it's first come , first served .Be assured that any left over questions will be answered within the next few days. Dan is at Stone Expo in Vegas right now so don't freak if he does not get to your question tonight or tomorrow.

I met Dana at Connections and got to spend some time with him here in Ca.
I find him to be a honest, straight shooter who really has the betterment of the Carpet Cleaner to Hard Floor transition in mind. He came from a CCing history(Chem Dry, and Owner Op) and after a few years of grunting away for .35 a foot he stumbled upon the world of stone and it's $4 to $8 a foot potential, He quickly saw the need for education and better, more efficient products for us rug suckers.

His company already has many very cool products to offer and from what I over heard at dinner, much more even cooler stuff is around the corner.


Dana...

it's all yours!
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
Mikey P said:
Welcome everyone to an old fashion MB Hot Seat.

The most valuable CCBB interviews to be had.

First off we only have Dana for a hour and a half tonight so it's first come , first served .Be assured that any left over questions will be answered within the next few days. Dan is at Stone Expo in Vegas right now so don't freak if he does not get to your question tonight or tomorrow.

I met Dana at Connections and got to spend some time with him here in Ca.
I find him to be a honest, straight shooter who really has the betterment of the Carpet Cleaner to Hard Floor transition in mind. He came from a CCing history(Chem Dry, and Owner Op) and after a few years of grunting away for .35 a foot he stumbled upon the world of stone and it's $4 to $8 a foot potential, He quickly saw the need for education and better, more efficient products for us rug suckers.

His company already has many very cool products to offer and from what I over heard at dinner, much more even cooler stuff is around the corner.


Dana...

it's all yours!

Thanks Mikey,

I'd just like to start by saying thank you for having me here tonight. I'll do my best to keep up.
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
Mikey P said:
Welcome everyone to an old fashion MB Hot Seat.

The most valuable CCBB interviews to be had.

First off we only have Dana for a hour and a half tonight so it's first come , first served .Be assured that any left over questions will be answered within the next few days. Dan is at Stone Expo in Vegas right now so don't freak if he does not get to your question tonight or tomorrow.

I met Dana at Connections and got to spend some time with him here in Ca.
I find him to be a honest, straight shooter who really has the betterment of the Carpet Cleaner to Hard Floor transition in mind. He came from a CCing history(Chem Dry, and Owner Op) and after a few years of grunting away for .35 a foot he stumbled upon the world of stone and it's $4 to $8 a foot potential, He quickly saw the need for education and better, more efficient products for us rug suckers.

His company already has many very cool products to offer and from what I over heard at dinner, much more even cooler stuff is around the corner.


Dana...

it's all yours!

Thanks Mikey,

I'd just like to start by saying thank you for having me here tonight. I'll do my best to keep up.
 
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Ron lippold
dana so far i have had good luck with the pads as well as the wax do we apply the protectant before or after the wax
 

Mikey P

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My first question is..

Do you see a niche market for one truck guys like myself to use only your Monkey Pads on stone?

Just offering what they (monkeys) can do and forgo on the traditional diamond work?

Do you see enough home owners that owuld pay for less than perfect work? (no lippage removal, not implying that the Monkeys pads are not "perfect")
 
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when doing a large area is it safe to do the whole floor at one pad at a time or should we break it up into small areas
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

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Ron Lippold said:
dana so far i have had good luck with the pads as well as the wax do we apply the protectant before or after the wax

The wax is only for counter tops, apply it after sealing.
 
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Ron lippold
lippage aside with the afforadable price of the starter kit even at 2.00 a foot these pads are the right idea. were can a guy make 4000 a day
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
Mikey P said:
My first question is..

Do you see a niche market for one truck guys like myself to use only your Monkey Pads on stone?

Just offering what they (monkeys) can do and forgo on the traditional diamond work?

Do you see enough home owners that owuld pay for less than perfect work? (no lippage removal, not implying that the Monkeys pads are not "perfect")

Most home owners are unwilling to pay for lippage removal. They just want it to look like it did when it was new... Smooth glossy and free of scratches and stains. So absolutely yes to answer that question.
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
Ron Lippold said:
when doing a large area is it safe to do the whole floor at one pad at a time or should we break it up into small areas

Do the whole floor or area with one grit, then rinse before moving to next grit would be most efficient.
 

Jim Martin

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Jim Martin
what would it take for some one with no knowledge of this to add this service
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
Ron Lippold said:
lippage aside with the afforadable price of the starter kit even at 2.00 a foot these pads are the right idea. were can a guy make 4000 a day

Could you be more specific?
 

David Gelinas

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Messages
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Hi Dana, David Gelinas here; 1800MARBLEGUY. Its great to take a few minutes and talk with you I’ve heard a lot of great things about your pads and I have a couple of questions I was hoping to go over with you. For instance -
What is the main focus or intent of the MP’s?
 

Mikey P

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I have a Limestone job coming up in a very ritzy home.

Each 12 by12 tile has a very deep beveled edge, almost a half inch drop.

Some acid etching but mostly soiled.


How would you go about cleaning and dealing with the edge issue?
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
Jim Martin said:
what would it take for some one with no knowledge of this to add this service

I suggest starting by taking the IICRC SMT class to get a base to build on. Go to http://www.monkeypads.com
watch the training video for marble polishing. It really is as easy as the video and we just made a breakthrough this morning that will make it even easier!
 

Larry Cobb

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Hi Dana;

Good to have you on the hot seat.

I have another crystallizing question:

Many of my knowledgeable stone customers use diamonds to initially polish a stone floor.

Then they utilize crystallizers to maintain the polish. They feel that that is the only economical system for maintaining the gloss level.

Will the new pads have any drawbacks when used instead of the crystallizers to maintain the polished look.

Larry
 

Bob Foster

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Thanks for taking yourself away from the debate tonight to spend your time with us. I am curious about your offerings for education. You mentioned that you were going to break up the classes to workmanship and also marketing.

Can you give us a little bit of info on what you are offering.
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
David Gelinas said:
Hi Dana, David Gelinas here; 1800MARBLEGUY. Its great to take a few minutes and talk with you I’ve heard a lot of great things about your pads and I have a couple of questions I was hoping to go over with you. For instance -
What is the main focus or intent of the MP’s?

In a nutshell...
Monkey Pads were made to make it easier for someone starting or expanding a stone restoration business. They won't change the industry as some would suggest, they just take the risk out of polishing and honing. This will allow the true crafstmen in the company focus on the specialty work. It will help you guard the trade secrets while still making tons of money with simple hone and polish work.
 

David Gelinas

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Could you please explain a little more about the stone “wax” mentioned in the pre-questions? When you mentioned paste you got me thinking of very old school SCJ traffic paste wax for wood.
I’m assuming there are no similarities correct?
What about discoloration?
Can soil/dirt be embedded into the wax?
Does it discolor over time?
Is there ever or could there ever be a reason to “strip” this product off of the floor?
What’s the possibility of “waxing” stuff to the floor when recoating, i.e. hair, grit, etc?
Is there a need to recoat and if so how often?
Is it UV stable?
When buffed, will it swirl like UHS finishes of old like Equinox or Signature?
Does it provide any hydro or oil phobic protection?
 
D

DANA KOTHRADE

Guest
Larry Cobb said:
Hi Dana;

Good to have you on the hot seat.

I have another crystallizing question:

Many of my knowledgeable stone customers use diamonds to initially polish a stone floor.

Then they utilize crystallizers to maintain the polish. They feel that that is the only economical system for maintaining the gloss level.

Will the new pads have any drawbacks when used instead of the crystallizers to maintain the polished look.

Now thats a great question!
Crystallizing has been the most economical maintenance procedure until now. Over time, crystallizing causes severe damage to marble. The Monkey Pads will not only remove that damage over time, they will not contribute to it.

Larry
 

RickL

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Oct 23, 2006
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Earlier there was a comment about using an O.P. machine with the Monkey Pads and that it worked very well. Is this really the case? What machine was used and is extra weight needed and is it more effective than a 175 rotary?
 

David Gelinas

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Messages
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I have used pads “similar” (fiber based pads with a ceramic based abrasive grit applied to one side) made by two different companies. Their grits have been “Course, Medium, Fine and Very Fine”. The other is done in colors but seem to most closely represent “1,500 and 3.000 grits”. The first ones worked well enough in most applications but had a tendency to cut out the softer spots of the stone and leave the harder ones making the stone much more “textured” than it should have been. Have you seen that with your pads?
 

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